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I bought my sons a hunting bow for christmas. They wanted something better and more powerful than the semi-toy recurve bows that you buy at Target or K-Mart. It is a Darton MX400. I know nothing about it. I looked online and it said that it is a good bow from the 1980s-1990s and that it has a terrible "rest" that should be changed. I have a few questions for someone with knowlege:
What is a rest and how do I change it? What is a good one to use? Does it really need to be changed for basic target shooting and maybe some simple hunting where I hope that they always miss?
What is "fingers" Apparently it has simething to do with some part of the bow.
The bow is 50-70 pound draw. We will want it on the lowest. How do I change it? Do I have to take it to a shop to change the draw?
It is 65% let off or something like that. What on earth does that mean?
I remember from my short time shooting bows as a kid that they will need archery gloves and an arm protector. I thnk that they probably already have them. Is there anything else that they need? The bow has four arrows that mount on the bow itself. I should probably get them some cheapo arrows to use at first for target shooting so they do not ruin the better ones that came with it. What kind should I get and where is the best place to get them?
If they want to take it hunting, is there a place where they can learn where to shoot to kill quickly and how to gut an animal that they kill. Most boys learn this from their dads, but I have never been hunting. It is obvious to me that you cannot shoot a deer in the head with an arrow. What do they shoot? Lungs? Heart, liver or other organs? How do they know where these things are? Where can they learn? I do not want them to shoot something and have it run off in agony and die ten hours later.
If it's that old I would find a Archery shop and have them look at it......
They should beable to answer the "rest" question also and give you one that will work.
"Fingers" means shooting your bow without a "release", fingers only.
Take the bow to a shop, have them cahgne the weight.....
65% let off, this means when you draw the string back, you notice how hard it is and then all of a sudden you hit a point and it is much easier to hold, well you are now holding 35% of the draw weight instead of the 80lbs, you aer holding 35% of 80lbs back....make sence?
Agree- get thee to a pro shop and have them look it over, check the limbs to make sure they are in good shape, re-string it if necessary, add a low cost rest like a whisker biscuit and set the let off.
Learning how to hunt? I would start with a hunter safety class provided through your state's Division on Wildlife. Some are better than others. It's mandatory for beginner hunters in most states ANYWAY.
Some states have better programs than others. In Montana you have to take a dedicated bow hunters class and they cover skills such as tracking etc.. You also have to pass a proficiency test prior to getting your bow hunting endorsement. I whole-heartedly agree with this, especially with a novice hunter AND inexperienced archer.
What is a rest and how do I change it? What is a good one to use? Does it really need to be changed for basic target shooting and maybe some simple hunting where I hope that they always miss?
There isn't any difference between a good target rest and one for hunting. A basic rest will cost you under $10 a good rest will be in the $40 range and of course you can spend a lot, lot more. I shot competitively with a mid range rest of years.
I remember from my short time shooting bows as a kid that they will need archery gloves and an arm protector.
Quote:
What is "fingers" Apparently it has simething to do with some part of the bow.
They are those archery gloves that you remember. For consistency I strongly recommend going with a mechanical release.
You can get away without the arm guard, but a couple of times getting stung by the release string isn't all that much fun.
The bow is 50-70 pound draw. We will want it on the lowest. How do I change it? Do I have to take it to a shop to change the draw?
As for your other questions.
Like the others have mentioned, take the bow and your son into a competent archery shot. The bow must be fitted to your sons draw length because unlike a recurve, a compound bow has to be set to a specific length, it cannot be under or over drawn.
As for arrows, besides the difference between carbon fiber and aluminum arrows (price) there isn't much difference between a good set of target arrows and ones used for hunting. You buy one set (they are sold by the dozen) of arrows and just change the tips from target shooting to hunting (they both screw into the shaft).
Two other items (amongst many... archery can be almost as bad as golf) to seriously consider are stabilizers (a front mounted tube or weight that reduces the bows oscillations improving accuracy), and a good set of sights.
AGAIN, take bow, son and check book to a competent archery shop preferably one with a range. An old bow with undetected worn springs or worn or damaged leafs (the pieces above and below the handle) can be dangerous and undetectable to the untrained eye.
Hate to say it but you might have wasted your money. A bow is not like a gun in that one size cannot fit all.
Its unlikely that both your kids are the same draw length or can draw the same weight. Its easy to adjust the draw weight but you need to know what you are doing. A bow that old will be hard to adjust draw length & have a limited range compared to today.
Fingers usually refers to drawing & releasing with your fingers vs useing a release as pictured. A bow that old is probably designed for fingers, shooting fingers requires a different rest than a release and a different fletching configuration.
I wouldn't consider hunting at all until the boys have a year or so under their belts shooting archery tackle. Its not hard to become a decent shot with modern gear, but if the gear does not fit them you are doing more harm than good.
My advice is to visit an archery shop ready to spend money. Archery can be enjoyed relatively inexpensively, but hunting takes it to another level and respect for the animal dictates a person use at least well fitting equipment and be proficient with the bow.
Hate to say it but you might have wasted your money. A bow is not like a gun in that one size cannot fit all.
Its unlikely that both your kids are the same draw length or can draw the same weight.......................much snippage........................My advice is to visit an archery shop ready to spend money. Archery can be enjoyed relatively inexpensively, but hunting takes it to another level and respect for the animal dictates a person use at least well fitting equipment and be proficient with the bow.
I agree. The best investment is a bow that will grow with each of your sons through the years. If it does not fit or is too cheap to function correctly they will not even get enough enjoyment to stick with the sport.
Newer enthusiasts to the sport need to feel comfortable with their gear. The sooner the better. The Razor Edge is the most adjustable bow available for younger archers. It uses a dual cam, rotating mod system for a maximized draw length range of a full ten inches. Two available peak draw weight versions and the ability to back down 50% allow you to adjust the Razor Edge over a range from 15 to 60 pounds. Additionally, the optimally designed ergo grip fits a broader range of hand sizes comfortably and the riser reflects the serious hunting bow it is. Such flexibility makes the Razor Edge the only bow that can accommodate an archer from first-time shooter to successful big game hunter.
Features:
* Brace Height: 7"
* Axle to Axle: 31"
* Draw Length: 19" - 29"
* Draw Weights: 29# or 60#
* IBO Speed: 308 fps @ 29"
* Kinetic Energy: 63.2 ft-lbs
* Effective Let-off: 75%
* Available in right and left handed models
* Choose the Bow Only, or upgrade with the optional Boondocks Accessory Package (pictured)
If you can, get them involved in 4-H archery or a similar program. Hunter safety courses specifically for bowhunters are invaluable and now required in a number of states.
I agree you should have the bow checked out. BUT. I have hunted for almost 18 years with compound bows and I use finger glove for release, no peep sight. I do have whiskers on the string, and a weight on the front, I change the rests on the bows to something I liked at the time, and just practiced, practiced, and again practiced. Nothing beats practice. I have taken small game, game birds, even ducks, and big game with my bows. You do not need all the bells and whistles on your bow. Early on I had a hunting partner that had all the best on his bow, the night before opening day at deer camp he was practicing with it and broke his pin holder when his bow fell off the pickup hood. This happened about 4:00 pm and we were almost 22 miles from the nearest paved road and another 69 miles to town. He missed most of opening day due to having to go get another one and being not the same he had to resight his bow in again. Another time when hunting Elk, a few years later a guy came into camp wanting to know if we had a extra hand release. His broke that day, we didn't have one, and he was lucky, it was only about 40 miles to the nearest Sporting Goods Store.
If you get the basics on the bow all your kids will probably be able to use it. As I don't think all will be able to use the peep sight and pins due to the kisser being on different places on their faces.
This is why I still shoot a recurve and shoot instinctly with my fingers.why complicate such a pure form of hunting with a bunch of high tech junk that can fail or break? I carry a spare string and a backup bow in camp nothing else. plus practice,practice,practice
This is why I still shoot a recurve and shoot instinctly with my fingers.why complicate such a pure form of hunting with a bunch of high tech junk that can fail or break? I carry a spare string and a backup bow in camp nothing else. plus practice,practice,practice
Same reason why people use hi-powered rifles....and moved away from the muzzle loaders....usually range is a big factor....speed is also a huge factor.
Don't get me wrong either, to each his own....I know many people who use a recurve bow....but....when you put an 80 lb recurve against an 80 lb compund....the compund wins hands down on speed and distance...as with anyting else accuracy is up to the person..........
For instant answers to your questions go to Leatherwall.com and tradgang.com and use the search engines in the forum.
Also see the state by state forums accessed in the right hand margin on leatherwall. This will zero you in on local talent and shops to help you.
You might consider recurve bows as opposed to compound bows for its simplicity and fun. Choice is a matter of personal taste but it is important to provide exposure to other styles of archery gear.
Many archery catalogs have multiple pages of 'releases' which have taken the place of fingers on most modern compounds. Several more pages for 'arrow rests' ranging from simple plastic rests to fearful looking metal contraptions with levels, bolts and claws. It doesn't have to get that complicated.
Grayling Michigan is the heart of modern archery with Fred Bear one of the founding fathers once headquartered there. Finding help in MI should be a breeze.
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