First time painter (panel, paint, ceiling, sand)

[str8]

My wife and I just bought our first home and we are going to paint a couple of rooms. We like Behr and Olympic but we are trying to decide which paint brand to choose. We are interested in a paint that would look great after two coats, stands up to high traffic areas, will last for a long timt(4-6 years) and can handle abrasions.


Also, when painting a bedroom, do you paint inside the closets or just the doors of the closets?


Help

[MrRational]

Originally Posted by str8

We are interested in a paint that would look great after two coats, stands up to high traffic areas, will last for a long time (4-6 years) and can handle abrasions. Help

1) The largest part of a good job is in the hard work of preparation starting with **clean**.
Too few people will really clean the wall before painting.
Then focus on spackel and sanding and caulking etc.

2) Buy good tools (brushes, rollers, covers, pans, pails).
Learn how to take care of them and then actually do that.

3) Paint brand is the least important aspect of a good job.
The reality is that ANY of the premium brands will perform comparably well...
and most of the "bargain" brands will do just fine too.

[Wilson513]

I like to see closets in a complimentary color, on the lighter side of the walls unless they are white or yellow.

For prep, I agree with the above with the addition that pencil marks, ink, rust, and dark stains be sealed with B-I-N or equivalent alcohol based sealer before painting.

Get 400-600 watts of light for a normal size room for painting. Use clip on flood lights directed to the area you are painting. A wall that looks solid in 400 watts of direct lighting will look fantastic in normal room light.

Roll ceiling first, using a 10" roller with a long handled roller extension. Never roll a ceiling or a wall without an extension on the roller handle. Good painters can tell at a glance if you rolled it with just the roller at the end of your hand. Two hands are needed to properly control a 10" roller unless you are Superman. [Also, you will be able to play golf on Sunday instead of taking pain killers and nursing blisters].

Cut in walls around doors, windows, woodwork and ceiling with a long handled 2 1/2 inch angled trim brush in china bristle even if you are using latex paint. Then roll walls and ceilng again.

Tape walls around doors and woodwork with blue 3M painters tape (no masking tape no matter how cheap it is). Paint woodwork and doors along the grain of the wood with the long handled trim brush. Use gloss or semi gloss on woodwork doors and window sash.

Do not tape windows. Paint the sash free hand and scrape paint off of glass after one day to dry with razor scraper. only way to get a good seal on the windows.

Summary:

3-4 foot roller extension
10" roller and roller covers matched to your surface
long handled china bristle 2.5" angled trim brush
blue 3M painters tape
razor scraper

[thecoalman]

Originally Posted by str8

Also, when painting a bedroom, do you paint inside the closets or just the doors of the closets?

There is no law that says you have too and would be more of a personal preference but IMO you do. I often get criticized for painting, caulking, spackling and puttying things most people will never see but I know it's there. It's those little details that make the difference between a professional job where someone has pride in their work and the slap it together crowd. Might even be a good starting point to practice with.

[LivingDeadGirl]

Check out websites like Lowes, This Old House, etc, and search painting for professional advice. Those of us who have owned homes for a long time and do our own painting understand the importance of the prep work. That IS the hard part but it will pay off. Do it right, do it carefully, and you are good for the next 15-20 years. And yes, I paint the insides of the closets one time - makes it feel clean and new! Good luck.

[TrapperL]

In regards to the actual paint product, the more sheen the tougher the finish. A full gloss and a semi gloss are a scrubbable finish whereas a flat finish is not. In the industry they play games with words just like any other industry. Scrubbable is the toughest finish. Washable is the next toughest and would be finishes like satin or eggshell. My house is satin on everything except trim where I use full gloss. Depending on the size of the room, I'd suggest nothing less than an eggshell even on the ceiling. Get the brightest white you can for the ceiling with a little sheen and it will be a lot warmer looking and will use less lighting- yeah, it really makes a difference. AVOID any paints that advertise silicone or teflon in the formula- you can't recoat them and they must be removed to repaint.

Using Lowes or Home Depot paints are just fine but they aren't cheap to buy. Might take a look at the professional line at Sherwin- Williams or Ben Moore. Most interior paints are a low quality item as compared to the exterior paints so don't pay a bunch for it. Studies have shown most folks are tired of the look of a room by year 8 and repaint anyway. Even cheapo paint will last that long. Figure the paint will cover 300 sq ft per galon and use 2 coats. If rolling, roll up and down to apply it and with the roller wet, then come back over the same area while it's wet and roll it horizontally- that keeps roller tracks from forming later after it dries. Paint the ceiling first and don't worry about getting white paint on the walls. Cut in the ceiling and baseboards with the wall paint and cut around windows and doors giving yourself about a 3-4inch cut line. Then yer ready to roll. Use a 1/2" thick roller if you can. Use a tapered brush for the cut in- I like a 2 1/2" brush. Avoid the cheap Purdy brushs at Lowes. They're grossly over priced and are the lowest quality Purdy makes. Home Depot has much better brushs if shopping at a box store.

Scrubbable- means you can use a spray detergent and scrub brush and swipe the area twice with the brush without damage to the finish.
Washable- means you can take a wet sponge and swipe it once without doing damage.
Yeah, like most industries, they cover their backsides with the word play.

[nightcrawler]

As for the insides of the closets, I always paint the insides gloss white. Reason being, most closets are dark, this helps lighten them.

Also when you go to paint the room the next time you will not have to empty the closet and paint inside since white is just white....

Now if the room was blue and the inside of the closet was blue as well, when you say, change to green then obviously you have to paint the closet green as well....now when the inside of the closet is white it doesn't have to become that part of the project. Thus making the painting of ta room less of a mess since you don't have to empty a closet.


and if adventually the closet needs to be painted it can be at a time when the room doesnt that way you are just doing a little project. I hope it made sense how I explained it.

[fallingwater]

I never liked Behr paint. I used Olympic before and it was very thin and took a while to cover. I only use Benjamin Moore paint. It can be found at their stores or ACE. I leave closets white. I do not want the hassle of repainting them when I change my mind on room color. Don't skimp on the tools. Get good rollers and a good paint brush. I prefer a 2 in and 5 in. slanted brushes. I know its seems easy to skim on the tools but don't. It will make your job easier and the cheap crap won't wash out very well so in the end up end spending more money.

Paint woodwork in one direction. Don't paint back and forth. This leaves brush marks. I do all my cutting in first, then roll. Roll in a W pattern. Congrats on your new place.

[K'ledgeBldr]

Originally Posted by MrRational

1) The largest part of a good job is in the hard work of preparation ... Buy good tools ...Learn how to take care of them ... Paint brand is the least important aspect of a good job.

I don't think anyone can stress the importance of prep and tools. There's nothing worse spending a lot of money on paint and tools; and then not do the prep or use the tools correctly. I don't know how many times I've seen DIY paint jobs with boogers and roller lint. Boogers mean no sanding and roller lint means somebody took the roller out of the package and started painting before washing the roller.

Originally Posted by Wilson513

...pencil marks, ink, rust, and dark stains be sealed with B-I-N or equivalent alcohol based sealer before painting...A wall that looks solid in 400 watts of direct lighting will look fantastic in normal room light...Roll ceiling first, using a 10" roller with a long handled roller extension...Cut in walls around doors, windows, woodwork and ceiling with a long handled 2 1/2 inch angled trim brush...Then roll walls ...
Paint woodwork and doors along the grain of the wood with the long handled trim brush.
Do not tape windows. Paint the sash free hand and scrape paint off of glass after one day to dry with razor scraper. only way to get a good seal on the windows.

"Cutting in" is an art form within it's self. Knowing where and how can be a learning experience. Using the right techniques can also help- for instance, if your painting with flat- you can cut in all the trim/doors/windows, etc. at one time. Then roll the walls. If your using eggshell- cut in as you go. The best practice for eggshell is to maintain a wet leading edge.

Originally Posted by LivingDeadGirl

I paint the insides of the closets one time - makes it feel clean and new! Good luck.

No truer words could be spoken. As long as it's white.

Originally Posted by TrapperL

In regards to the actual paint product, the more sheen the tougher the finish... Studies have shown most folks are tired of the look of a room by year 8 and repaint anyway.

More truer words

Originally Posted by nightcrawler

As for the insides of the closets, I always paint the insides...white. Reason being, most closets are dark, this helps lighten them...

Did I mention white for the closets?

Originally Posted by fallingwater

I do all my cutting in first, then roll. Roll in a W pattern. Congrats on your new place.

The "W" pattern paint method is pretty antiquated now. The more preferred method is top to bottom, no more than two rows per load, smooth, reload, and repeat. Especially with eggshells and glosses.

The sequence never changes. Doesn't matter if it's a new job or a repaint.
Wash walls if it's a repaint (you want to remove the dirt and grime that can contaminant the paint finish)
Prep walls and trim (drywall repairs and caulk/putty)
Sand
Wipe walls and trim for dust (with a slightly damp cloth to capture the dust)
Seal/primer (if needed and/or repairs)
Sand
Wipe walls and trim for dust
Paint trim (which would include the doors themselves. Word of caution- Doors can be a billboard for bad painting techniques. Most doors that people have today are 6 panel hollow-core doors. All the details within the panels can spell disaster for an inexperienced painter. Usually, doors when initially painted are sprayed and most H/O aren't in a position to go and buy a sprayer. A great alternative that I've been using for a few years when pulling out the sprayer isn't worth the time an effort for small jobs is a 4" foam roller. They work great, leave no brush marks, and leave a finish that is almost as good as a spray finish)
Paint walls
Clean tools well- soap&water, paint thinner, etc.

[FloridaKash]

OP - wouldn't it be great if all these pro's came over and helped you? I really, really hate painting. With that in mind, I have some painting to do in the next few months.