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Thanks for the reply desertsun. Sorry for the slew of questions, I'm just suddenly working on a tight deadline apparently. The ceilings are only 8' though, so I don't have much space to work with as most =/
Could you tell me about the whole standard, plywood ends, all-plywood cabinet options?
I hear you on the 12" area on the right of the fridge - though I do see why he put the fridge where he did (so it isn't completely opposite the peninsula). I could either do as you suggested, or maybe the cleaning supply storage option, or something for wine/knicknacks? Too many choices
Definitely doing the lazy susan.
One more question - with the way the sink is, is it possible to do one of those little tilt-out sponge storage things? Or is the area not big enough?
First off let me say that no Lowes or Home Depot Kitchen Sales person are CKD certfied, hell none of them are even AKBD. These stores hire existing cash register employees or Sales Specialists and give them a training class on how to use design programs, usually 20/20 Vision. I fail to see why they are out there designing the most expensive room in peoples homes.
I am like any artist. I have to be in the room to vision a great design or a masterpiece. HD and Lowes kitchen sales people are not allowed to go to your home. They rely on people bringing in measurments and drawings. In my 30 years in the biz maybe I met a dozen people who know how to read a measuring tape. Instead they make you sign something saying they are not responsible for errors on anyones part. Guess how expensive that can get with one small mistake.
I would like to see you start from scratch by using a CMKBD (certified master kitchen and bath designer) like myself.....dont worry I live too far from you to be soliciting. If you could find one who will work for just a flat fee. You will be in good hands knowing you are getting the latest and greatest. From there you can shop with your materials list to the person you told me about.
I really dont like that design too much. It's not horrible, Im just saying it could be better.
Thanks for the reply desertsun. Sorry for the slew of questions, I'm just suddenly working on a tight deadline apparently. The ceilings are only 8' though, so I don't have much space to work with as most =/
Could you tell me about the whole standard, plywood ends, all-plywood cabinet options?
I hear you on the 12" area on the right of the fridge - though I do see why he put the fridge where he did (so it isn't completely opposite the peninsula). I could either do as you suggested, or maybe the cleaning supply storage option, or something for wine/knicknacks? Too many choices
Definitely doing the lazy susan.
One more question - with the way the sink is, is it possible to do one of those little tilt-out sponge storage things? Or is the area not big enough?
Sorry I went off on another scam and I hate seeing people getting short changed.
I thought you said you had 9' ceilings. You have 8??? Then why the hell are they doing 36 uppers? If you add CCM up top you will have like 3-4 inches gap up there. I could live with 36 uppers in an 8' ceiling if you do like a 3 step crown meaning use about 3 different moldings to step up past the top of the cabinet and then add the big crown to that. Now these 3 steps will rise up to meet the ceiling. Always remember 42 to the ceiling, 30 gives you a useful 12" space to put knick knacks but 36 creates a dust collector. But never be afraid of doing multi height boxes and multi depth.
Yes on the tilt trays. Kraftmaid calls them TOST (tilt out sink tray). Most companies sell sink bases with the tilt out trays already in. They charge about $125 for it. Here is a hint. Dont buy it from the cabinet company. Buy a standard sink base with false fronts. Now buy the TOST from Rev-A-Shelf for $12. HD and Lowes sell them. Most anyone can install them.
Ok cabinet construction:
I have said this many times. THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH PARTICLE BOARD BOXES !!!
Go into Lowes or HD and walk into the lumber section. Look at the stacks of plywoods and what do you see? The upper sheets are shapped like bananas right? Now look at the stacks of particle board. They are flat as flat can be.....and they will remain that way for a million years. Plywood will not. Cheap plywood such as Chinese brand is warped from day one and huge presses attempt to flatten the parts before shipping. Yes parts, Chinese cabinets are bought in pieces for the consumer to assemble.
A PB box will still always have a solid wood faceframe, door and drawer face. Why spend 30% more for a wood box that no one will ever see? Once you gang up the boxes and put the top on then no one can tell. Here is a better cheaper way. All cabinets the faceframe extend a quarter inch past the side. We call this the ear. You can buy real wood skins that are 3/16th thick already cut to size and you will glue and staple this skin to the side and tucked behind the ear. You do this only on exposed ends. Now you can tell everyone you have an all wood kitchen. The $3000 you just saved you can now upgrade with all kinds of goodies and options but you should upgrade to all wood drawers. They will be 5/8th solid maple and dovetailed joints.
Yes it is true that a PB box will be totaled if it got wet but why would it get wet? If there is a real flood then I can assure you that the all wood boxes will be totaled too. I know because I am in Galveston now helping to rebuild after Hurricane IKE. Ask me how many all solid wood cabinets are tossed to the trash for pickup after being soaked.
By the way, I would also like to see a WC wall corner where they have that stupid WBC wall blind corner. People so hate those things. At least put in a corner pie. That cabinet salesperson was cutting corners and taking the easy way out.
Whewwwwwwwwwwwww !!!! I held my breath during all that !!!
As for the molding - will this look bad with 8' ceilings?
I am having a little trouble envisioning it as "looking good". You will only have about 3" there which will about give you enough space to get something like a "Swiffer duster" in there to keep cobwebs knocked down. Remember too, you have beaded doors but with a lower ceiling. Depending on what the rest of the house is like, you might want to keep your moldings simpler. You can really get some money tied up fast in the larger, more complex moldings.
Not sure on the construction yet - what are the differences/benefits of standard, plywood ends, all-plywood? I have never actually checked, so I am making an assumption about features at Lowe's, but at the independent dealers, there are three construction options available. The front frames and doors are identical in all three, solid hardwood face-frames and door frames and either solid or veneered panels in the doors, depending on the door style. Standard construction is less expensive and has the cabinet boxes and shelves made with a high density particle board that is covered with "Viraguard" which is a type of vinyl sheet coating. Wood grain design is pretty realistic and the color you have selected should match pretty well on the outside. Plywood ends is a step up in price. The back, bottom, and shelves are constructed the same as Standard, but the ends are plywood. The interior is covered with the same material, but the outside of the ends is a wood veneer to match the faces and will be finished the same. All plywood is what it says. The box and shelves are plywood and the interior is a birch veneer that is finished with the same type of finish as the outside.KraftMaid Cabinetry - Cabinet Construction Details
I like the Base Cooking Center on page 102, which IMO should be near the dishwasher. No idea on what the dimensions for that are, and where I could stick the bread drawer as a result. Base Cooking Center is a 36" wide cabinet. If you want the breadbox you will need the drawer base too that has the deeper drawer in the bottom. Either a 3 or 4 drawer base will work. Husband is still bugging me to find a place for wine storage as well (we dislike wine fridges). You could do a lattice type cabinet possibly. 15" wide is the narrowest. They also have a 6" wide cabinet with square openings, but it is recommended to put that one between two other cabinets or between a wall and a cabinet. Or you have this one that is 18" or 24" square.Food Storage Cabinets - Harmony Storage Solutions by KraftMaid Cabinetry An option might to be to put two of the Base Wine Racks together with a BEP 1 1/2 at the end beside the refrigerator if you can squeeze another 1 1/2" there. Food Storage Cabinets - Harmony Storage Solutions by KraftMaid Cabinetry I'm not a wine connoisseur, but I do believe you don't want to store your wine high where it gets warmer.
As for the lazy susan, do I just say that I want a lazy susan on the bottom, and then the model number you said above? Lazy susans in that door style come in two basic types. One is a normal lazy susan where the door swings open and there are 2 shelves attached to a center post. There is also what they call an Easy Reach Super Susan which has the door that opens and the trays are attached to shelved and rotate individually with no center post. It is a little higher priced. Whatever your preference. Wood Lazy Susan - Harmony Storage Solutions by KraftMaid Cabinetry Easy Reach Super Susan - Harmony Storage Solutions by KraftMaid Cabinetry What sort of cabinet is that? That is a Blind Corner. I just think the number I gave you will give you more efficient storage based on the size you are showing in the print. You could think about a Wall Easy Reach in the corner. They come in a 21" wide unit which could leave room for the "square opening" wine rack between it and the microwave. That would be easier to get to items in there.
I've been getting a lot of help from kelsie and her husband on this as well (just been ridiculously busy here to focus as much as I need to on this). They recommended a cabinet which would be an upper nearest to where the sink is, that instead of coming straight out of the wall, it would be angled toward the wall at a 45 degree angle (less cabinet space I think, but looks nice). Wonder if that would look good with this layout. I think that would be a good way to end that run. If you are concerned that it wouldn't give much storage, how about a glass door with a matching interior, glass shelves, and a light inside for those collectibles.
I doubt I want a reverse-a-shelf, those things look ridiculously complicated to me, haha. I was thinking of flanking the hood with two thin pullout spice racks, then putting glass-fronted cabinets next to those. The spice racks would need to go between the other cabinets and the wall or the refrigerator end panel. They don't really have a normal frame construction due to the size and need the support from the other cabinets. Be sure to specify matching interiors for the glass front cabinets.
I wonder if that plate storage is similar to the one I like, but with a different adjustable configuration. I wish the online list matched up to the Idea Book =/ The one I like int he book has (from bottom going up) two big horizontal drawers, the bottom segmented for small appliances, the top for plates, then two smaller drawers next to each other for cutlery + a cutting board, then silverware + slideout shelf. Looked pretty handy. See above.
I am still wondering if I should be doing something with the small cabinet area that is in the lower right section, near the fridge. Could a wine setup be placed there? Should I leave it as is? Maybe a cleaning supply pullout area (since my mudroom/laundry room is extremely small)? Any opinions? The wine rack setup I showed above is one option and you could put the glass holders under the upper cabinet possiblyStemmed Glass Holder - Harmony Storage Solutions by KraftMaid Cabinetry.
Here is a link to more detailed specs of what they have available. Cabinet Details: Cabinet Selection and Specifications I have plans for this weekend and probably will not return here until Monday evening. Good luck in your planning.
I'd build the crown up to the ceiling. I'd not put wine above the fridge. The heat the fridge generates is not beneficial to the wine. Instead of the counter to the right of the fridge, can you put in a pull out pantry cabinet? It will give you more storage than the base and upper cabinets and prevent that small countertop from being a catch-all.
I'd build the crown up to the ceiling. I'd not put wine above the fridge. The heat the fridge generates is not beneficial to the wine. Instead of the counter to the right of the fridge, can you put in a pull out pantry cabinet? It will give you more storage than the base and upper cabinets and prevent that small countertop from being a catch-all.
Now that is a good point about the wine being above the refer. I know nothing about wine but I do believe they need to be kept cool. Or at least not stored above a heat source.
Desert, I have to disagree with you about the particle board vs all wood cabinets. If you were buying a house where I live, you would expect high end cabinets. I know I personally do. If I went to an open house and they had cheap cabinets, I would either lose interest and leave or subtract the cost of replacing the kitchen in my offer.
Desert, I have to disagree with you about the particle board vs all wood cabinets. If you were buying a house where I live, you would expect high end cabinets. I know I personally do. If I went to an open house and they had cheap cabinets, I would either lose interest and leave or subtract the cost of replacing the kitchen in my offer.
Well penn I grew up in your neck of the woods. I know Tenafly quite well. I did have more people wanting all wood cabinets back then but out west it was not like that. 99% of sales were PB boxes. Today is a different story. In South Texas when someone walks in the door they wont even say hello to me. They begin by barking I DONT WANT ANY OF THAT PARTICAL BOARD CRAP. I cant give away PB here. They dont want it.
But dont mean wood is better really. I take it as my duty to educate people the whys, hows and if they still want wood then so be it.
When I tell people this story about going to HD or Lowes and look at the stacks of plywood they really do hesitate and think about it.
The biggest thing is cost. People want quality and cheap and those 2 things dont always go together.
So, we went to Lowes on Friday (it was a hell of a weekend, and been busy ever since, which is why I couldn't follow-up till now).
Turns out the original guy I spoke to from Lowes in my area didn't follow the measurements I provided. I think he added over.... two feet. So yeah, that didn't help my situation, I pretty much had to start from scratch. My own fault for not double checking sooner, but my mind has been elsewhere - at least I caught it.
That said, this is the current layout we came up with:
I was told the angled sink might give me problems with the neighboring cabinets because it would have to cut into their boxes. So, we moved it. The current plan is to build a half wall (up to cabinet minus c-top height) on the lower wall by the sink, and flush the countertop over it, to make for a wider peninsula - plus, since I really don't think I was to do a raised wall at the sink, it might cut down on water spashing to the floor behind the faucet. Also, where the upper cabinets end on the left wall, we would make that a half wall as well to open things up.
When we figured out we had to readjust for measurements, we lost our spice drawers . I'm thinking of putting some sort of what I call "stadium seating" in both of the mullion door cabinets to either side of the cooktop (the bottom shelf of each), and placing my spices there. So, I could get around not having my pullout shelves in that case... but now I am looking at the dimensions, and the rendered picture:
and now I am wondering, hold on.... I am getting a 36" cooktop, but there seems to be only 36" space for a hood. Is this normal? Do hoods normally have an exact fit? I figured I needed space, or should I assume that a 30" hood would do the trick for a 36" cooktop?
Anyway, this is my current situation. I didn't make the final order yet - that will be next week, glad I have a little bit of extra time - but I'd like some opinions on what I mentioned above, and maybe the layout in general. Thanks again everyone!
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. I'm thinking of putting some sort of what I call "stadium seating" in both of the mullion door cabinets to either side of the cooktop (the bottom shelf of each), and placing my spices there. So, I could get around not having my pullout shelves in that case... but now I am looking at the dimensions, and the rendered picture:
