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I have a 1995 honda civic 5 speed LX the clutch pedal goes straight to the floor. I added brake fluid to the small reservoir but still no pressure. What should I do.
thx
Probably you have a failed clutch slave cylinder. Was the small res. empty?
If you look under the car you'll probably see where it was leaking.
If you have a garage and tools, this is not a really hard job. If you are in a warm climate it's do-able in the driveway.
In any case any competent repair shop should be able to do the deed.
Depending, you may be asked if you want to do the clutch master cylinder at the same time, and/or the hose connecting them. It's a judgment call. If you will keep the car a lot longer, you may want to do the "whole meal deal", if not, probably just replace the slave and call it good.
In my experience, Honda Civic slave cylinders are difficult to bleed the air out of. The only way i've been able to do them is to use a vacuum pump on the bleeder screw and suck all the air out.
It's not a tool that the average person would have. The actual replacement of the slave cyl. itself is very easy however.
I have a 1995 honda civic 5 speed LX the clutch pedal goes straight to the floor. I added brake fluid to the small reservoir but still no pressure. What should I do.
thx
Hum, your clutch pedal goes to the floor...so what does your pedal brake have to do with the clutch?
Hum, your clutch pedal goes to the floor...so what does your pedal brake have to do with the clutch?
He's talking about the clutch master cylinder resevior. not sure if you've been around for, oh I don't know the last 25 years or so, but hydraulic clutches use brake fluid.
When did he say anything about his brake pedal?
Next time know what you're talking about, before you make yourself look like an idiot. He was asking for genuine help.
I'm guessing here, if the Honda slave cylinder is like the one on E30 BMW cars, the bleed screw is below the input line, and the trick is to bleed it using a vacuum brake bleeder (not the commonest DIY tool but not particularly expensive or hard to use) *before* bolting it to the trans, but of course after connecting the hydraulic line.
I missed the main point of my "tip" - the trick is to orient the slave cylinder so the bleed valve is uppermost (D'oh!) so the air collects there, bleed it, then shut the bleeder valve, then bolt into place. For the patient DIY types, a simple length of tubing on the bleeder going to a catch can is really all you need, and just bleed it by gravity flow. It's nice but not necessary to have an assistant who will keep the fluid reservoir topped up while you are under the car.
Or, as ryan says, get one of the "push" bleeder guns, they are pretty cool pieces of kit.
I always have to do that with Ford trucks for some reason. You can bleed them till you're blue in the face, and never get a pedal.
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