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I have a rental and some how there are a couple kitchen drawers that have been broken. The faces have been pulled off of the boxes and of course now off track.
These is not anexpensive kitchen cabinet... probably the big box store variety with formica fronts and the wood is particle board type with that wood-like contact paper covering the wood.
I am required to repair these drawers. I am interested in either repair or replacing as cheaply as possible.
Besides Elmer's glue, are there any other inexpensive ways to repair or replace.
Aesthetics are not that important as functionality because this is a rental and the cost of the repairs are going to be added to next month's rent (damages by the tenant) and the tenant has very modest means.
I have a rental and some how there are a couple kitchen drawers that have been broken. The faces have been pulled off of the boxes and of course now off track.
These is not anexpensive kitchen cabinet... probably the big box store variety with formica fronts and the wood is particle board type with that wood-like contact paper covering the wood.
I am required to repair these drawers. I am interested in either repair or replacing as cheaply as possible.
Besides Elmer's glue, are there any other inexpensive ways to repair or replace.
Aesthetics are not that important as functionality because this is a rental and the cost of the repairs are going to be added to next month's rent (damages by the tenant) and the tenant has very modest means.
It's hard to answer, your post is all over the place and difficult to understand. You said it's an inexpensive kitchen, at least the misspellings and bad words caused me to just guess what you mean. The next line you say it's just cheap Formica which does not exist... and particle board. Then you say contact paper. Which is it?
So lets skip what the material is made of cause it don't matter. The box is going to be particle board with melamine covering which is a vinyl like cover if you will. Doesn't matter. My guess is you have a lap joint. Just pull out the old staples. Fit the parts back together, use something better then Elmer's glue....something like Gorilla Glue to fit the parts. You will need a bar clamp to hold it together while it hardens. You really need to use staples or pin nails in addition to the glue but I know you don't have that. The procedure is really basic and routine logic.
What you might find easier to do is go to Rockler.com and order yourself a new drawer core to size. Quick done and easy.
And if the drawer and cabinets are that junky and cheap then why is it the tenants fault? I feel you should fix it at best and at worst cover half with the tenant paying the rest. It also sounds like you want to charge them just because they are wealthy as you said using more politically correct terms.
Got any pics? Without seeing how it's damaged and how the box is constructed in the first place, it's hard to say whether glue, angle brackets, or an additional wood brace would be most suitable repair.
It's hard to answer, your post is all over the place and difficult to understand. You said it's an inexpensive kitchen, at least the misspellings and bad words caused me to just guess what you mean. The next line you say it's just cheap Formica which does not exist... and particle board. Then you say contact paper. Which is it?
So lets skip what the material is made of cause it don't matter. The box is going to be particle board with melamine covering which is a vinyl like cover if you will. Doesn't matter. My guess is you have a lap joint. Just pull out the old staples. Fit the parts back together, use something better then Elmer's glue....something like Gorilla Glue to fit the parts. You will need a bar clamp to hold it together while it hardens. You really need to use staples or pin nails in addition to the glue but I know you don't have that. The procedure is really basic and routine logic.
What you might find easier to do is go to Rockler.com and order yourself a new drawer core to size. Quick done and easy.
And if the drawer and cabinets are that junky and cheap then why is it the tenants fault? I feel you should fix it at best and at worst cover half with the tenant paying the rest. It also sounds like you want to charge them just because they are wealthy as you said using more politically correct terms.
I plan to hire a handyman to do the work. So I thank you for the suggestion of staples or pin nails. I'm sure the handyman will have access to those and I will insist on it.
The drawers and counters tops are made of the same material and same color. It is similar to laminate (I think is the correct term). The counter tops and the cabinet and drawer fronts are made of the same material. Once the drawer was broken I can see that the wood is actually particle wood not solid wood. And the sides of the drawers that are exposed when the drawers are pulled out are covered with something that tears away from the sides like contact paper. The paper is a wood grain design used by the cabinet builder to cover the particle board sides.
I say that the cabinets are cheap because I looked priced new kitchen cabinets a few years back and looked at better quality cabinets and during estimates I was shown why the existing cabinets were cheap. However they were functional and looked decent when I rented the house out.
As far as the damage to the drawers... for your information, I LIVED in that house for 10 years... did not have not one problem with the cabinets or those drawers. After 10 months 2 of them are damage... not just a few screws or staples... broken apart.
I think after 10 months (July to March)... oh sorry, that is actually 8 months, 2 drawers are damaged like that. I think the tenants are responsible. I am well aware of what is my responsibility. Tree roots, my responsibility, damage to the roof trim due to racoons, my responsibility.
Baby bottles down the toilet, holes in the wall, and broken kitchen drawers after 8 months... not normal and tear. TENANT'S responsibility.
I am looking for the cheapest way to repair the drawers because I think it is unnecessary to purchase expensive replacement cabinets to rental that will most likely be destroyed by next year.
I hope there were no grammatical errors in this post to impede your ability to understand my post.
Got any pics? Without seeing how it's damaged and how the box is constructed in the first place, it's hard to say whether glue, angle brackets, or an additional wood brace would be most suitable repair.
Thank you. I will get pics by next week when I go to the house with handy man to price out the job. I wanted to know if the drawers can be repaired or cheaply replaced before I get someone in who would tell me that I need to replace all kitchen cabinets.
When I had ice dam problems last winter... instead of repairing the leak, a roof guy told me I needed a whole new roof. REally? the roof was a complete tear down in 2000; 11 years ago. The roof doesn't leak during rain storms... just this one instance when we had a ice dam. But I need a WHOLE NEW ROOF??
I now realize that people will try to take advantage of unsuspecting people who are not handy or have knowledge about these things.
I am trying to get an idea of what is reasonable before I get estimates.
I plan to hire a handyman to do the work. So I thank you for the suggestion of staples or pin nails. I'm sure the handyman will have access to those and I will insist on it.
The drawers and counters tops are made of the same material and same color. It is similar to laminate (I think is the correct term). The counter tops and the cabinet and drawer fronts are made of the same material. Once the drawer was broken I can see that the wood is actually particle wood not solid wood. And the sides of the drawers that are exposed when the drawers are pulled out are covered with something that tears away from the sides like contact paper. The paper is a wood grain design used by the cabinet builder to cover the particle board sides.
I say that the cabinets are cheap because I looked priced new kitchen cabinets a few years back and looked at better quality cabinets and during estimates I was shown why the existing cabinets were cheap. However they were functional and looked decent when I rented the house out.
As far as the damage to the drawers... for your information, I LIVED in that house for 10 years... did not have not one problem with the cabinets or those drawers. After 10 months 2 of them are damage... not just a few screws or staples... broken apart.
I think after 10 months (July to March)... oh sorry, that is actually 8 months, 2 drawers are damaged like that. I think the tenants are responsible. I am well aware of what is my responsibility. Tree roots, my responsibility, damage to the roof trim due to racoons, my responsibility.
Baby bottles down the toilet, holes in the wall, and broken kitchen drawers after 8 months... not normal and tear. TENANT'S responsibility.
I am looking for the cheapest way to repair the drawers because I think it is unnecessary to purchase expensive replacement cabinets to rental that will most likely be destroyed by next year.
I hope there were no grammatical errors in this post to impede your ability to understand my post.
I agree with everything you said. Sorry if I seemed harsh, I'm just like that but I hope I helped some. Believe me....I'm harder on myself then I am on others. But good luck to you !!! Good choice using the handyman.
I agree with everything you said. Sorry if I seemed harsh, I'm just like that but I hope I helped some. Believe me....I'm harder on myself then I am on others. But good luck to you !!! Good choice using the handyman.
Come on desertsun to say that you're harder on yourself is a cop out and a way to justify your actions. Your post was not harsh, it was down right sarcastic and demeaning.
I always agree with you when posting information about cabinets because I remodel kitchens and I can tell you know your business.
You have a lot of good information to pass on to people who don't know a thing about cabinets. But you really need to find a way to pass it on without being so sarcastic.
I know you're a professional when it comes to cabinets but I somehow have a hard time believing that you treat your customers the same way in person.
These people are asking questions because they don't know about cabinets so how do you expect them to even know what to type or say when it comes to cabinets.
You have a lot of experience and knowledge to pass on to people are just trying to find answers about cabinets.
How would you like it if you posted a question about something you don't know about and the reply was riddled with sarcasm and demeaning?
I know you can do better if you treat posters as if you were treating your customers.
Come on desertsun to say that you're harder on yourself is a cop out and a way to justify your actions. Your post was not harsh, it was down right sarcastic and demeaning.
I always agree with you when posting information about cabinets because I remodel kitchens and I can tell you know your business.
You have a lot of good information to pass on to people who don't know a thing about cabinets. But you really need to find a way to pass it on without being so sarcastic.
I know you're a professional when it comes to cabinets but I somehow have a hard time believing that you treat your customers the same way in person.
These people are asking questions because they don't know about cabinets so how do you expect them to even know what to type or say when it comes to cabinets.
You have a lot of experience and knowledge to pass on to people are just trying to find answers about cabinets.
How would you like it if you posted a question about something you don't know about and the reply was riddled with sarcasm and demeaning?
I know you can do better if you treat posters as if you were treating your customers.
busta
Advice well taken. You have an awesome day. Better then the one I had that day when I wrote that. Bad spelling and grammar rubs me wrong, I have to learn how to be more forgiving. REPs to you my friend !
I'd take a 1/2 inch square piece of wood and cut it into ~3 inches long parts. Drill 2 holes that are 90 degrees opposed. Put 2 supports vertically in the front corners with glue so the face is again glue attached to the sides. Then put screws in the holes so the face is screwed to the new corner support from the backside. Ummmm, don't let the threads pop thru to the front. Check the fit so the support doesn't hit the face of the cabinet before final assmebly. If you have the tools you can probably fix quite a few for about 5 bucks. This won't fix the off track issue. Either slip them back into the track or something else is probably broken. Gonna have to figure that one out by investigation.
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Desert Sun
