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Old 02-17-2014, 01:57 PM
 
74 posts, read 735,859 times
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I am DIYing basement framing and I was wondering if I need to fasten bottom pressure treated wood to the concrete floor? because I saw old houses that they seem do not fasten. And what seems to be a good way to fasten wood to the concrete floor without damaging or cracking the floor or maybe glue to floor?

Thanks
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Old 02-17-2014, 03:14 PM
 
Location: Iowa
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I always did, it's a good idea. You don't need to put very many, just one every 3 or 4 feet. I just used the old triangular concrete nails.
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Old 02-17-2014, 04:36 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,475 posts, read 66,074,768 times
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Just rent a powder-actuated driver from rental company for a day.
Especially if you can't fully swing a framing hammer accurately- you'll just bend nails all day- and cut nails(those previously mentioned) will just pop out.
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Old 02-17-2014, 04:50 PM
 
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I believe (do not remember) it is "by the code" to "fasten" bottom pressure-treated plates to the concrete floor. I know that =I=, for sure, hammered hardened cement fasteners through the plates into the floor when I framed in the basement.

The problem with plates just laying there is, of course, movement - nothing like having a kid run into a wall (as kids are wont to do...) and having the whole wall tilt.
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Old 02-17-2014, 04:51 PM
 
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I'm a firm believer in Tapcon screws. They'll take care of it.

Buildex Tapcon®
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Old 02-17-2014, 04:55 PM
 
11,555 posts, read 53,193,983 times
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I wouldn't use pressure treated wood in an enclosed residential space.

The wood can outgas toxic fumes for years. There should be a warning label attached to each piece of the wood, advising you of the treatment and the toxicity. You can't even saw cut some of these without exposing yourself to toxic substances.

Whatever you're using for a sub-floor, gluing it to concrete can be problematic due to moisture in the concrete or curing agents/sealers used when the concrete was originally placed acting as a mold release agent.

Best to use mechanical fasteners ... either Tapcon screws or nail gun driven nails.
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:02 PM
 
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I'd put down a treated base plate with a ramset and then use a metal "U" track on top of that and metal studs. They are so much easier to work with, cheaper than wood , no dust, less waste and a hell of a lot quicker to frame than wood. And I'd invest in a cheap ($100 laser) to get every thing plumb & level. Lasers are a godsend when doing a drop ceiling.
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:25 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunsprit View Post
I wouldn't use pressure treated wood in an enclosed residential space
Treated wood, however it is treated, is required by code (everywhere?) for all floor plates such as are being discussed.
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:37 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
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The common method is a powder actuated tool with one at every or every other stud bay.

Powder-actuated tool - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

You may be able to rent one.
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:05 PM
 
4,512 posts, read 5,057,141 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWillys View Post
The common method is a powder actuated tool with one at every or every other stud bay.

Powder-actuated tool - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

You may be able to rent one.
That's what a ramset is.
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