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I just built some shelving for my spare room, where I do a lot of recording for my job ... here's a photo (and yes, it's really level -- my PHONE wasn't level when I was taking this! ):
The shelving is 6' tall by 6' wide, and it has several shelves that start pretty high up, so it could conceivably tip over. Because of this, I used L-brackets to attach the unit to the wall (in studs) -- you can see the lovely shiny brackets on the lowest shelf (so far I've used 3). There are 3 shelves above the 1 with the brackets, so I was wondering if I should use a couple more L-brackets on higher shelves?
I don't have kids so was only worried about my cats trying to jump on it and tipping it over instead , but honestly, I doubt that they could successfully jump up that high. Are 3 L-brackets enough or should I add more? (Honestly, it feels VERY sturdy now so even 3 might have been overkill ...)
The shelving will NOT be used for heavy-duty items -- I estimate maybe 100-150 pounds TOTAL weight on all its shelves once I fill it up.
If you went into the studs, you are fine. Looks like the proper spacing, but you didn't specifically mention hitting studs or the type and length of fastener.
I think you're fine. Even if you didn't hit the studs with all the brackets, picture the amount of force needed to pull the screws out of one or two studs and tip the shelving over. I doubt your cats can do that.
If you wanted to get a rough estimate of the force involved you can try pulling the shelves away from the wall with one of those spring scales (the hanging kind with a hook on the bottom). I bet you'll hit the maximum capacity of the scale long before you come close to budging the shelves.
So imagine the floor is moving back and forth or that it is on a boat, what would hold it in place? (Best is angle brackets up high and screwed in with long screws to studs.)
For some ideas, search google.com for the following words...
It is hard to tell the thickness of the shelf material form the pictures, but with a six foot span, they are going to sag (weight, and gravity).
So.....cut a two inch strip of wood and screw it under the rear of each shelf; the long side (2 inches) running flat against the rear wall. Then, screw through this 'cleat' into the studs.
It will look better than your brackets, help to prevent sagging, and give your shelves a firm anchor into the rear wall. You can cut a one inch strip and screw it under the front of each shelf to help prevent sagging as well.
So imagine the floor is moving back and forth or that it is on a boat, what would hold it in place? (Best is angle brackets up high and screwed in with long screws to studs.)
For some ideas, search google.com for the following words...
shelves and earthquakes
The o.p. is not on the West Coast, but you are correct, any brackets should be up high. In fact the lower ones are completely superfluous, i.e. unnecessary. IMO the shelves are much too close together to put anything in them heavy enough to cause them to sag. A commercial unit like the o.p. built would have a single mounting tab at the rear of the topmost shelf to be used for tip resistance. Stud not needed. A 35lb. toggle or EZ-Anchor would suffice in the absence of a conveniently located stud. FWIW.
Thanks for the replies, all!! Just for clarification ...
Yes, I went into 3 adjacent studs with the ~1" screws that came with the L-brackets. I think I will just add a bracket at the highest shelf around the middle, again at a stud (should have thought of that ... maybe that's what K'ledgeBldr meant by "think gravity" ).
Jack, you are right, my kitties are not superheroes, I don't think they have the strength to pull the unit out of the wall!
Billy J, I know all about earthquakes ... I was living in Berkeley in '89 when the big one hit ... had just gotten out of work in downtown Oakland when the road tilted and windows started shattering. No earthquakes in NH , but it's actually a good idea to remember what we had to do to secure things back then.
TedBear and Leisesturm, the shelves are 2x4s so they are 1.5" thick and very stiff -- I intentionally made them close together because of what I will be using them for. They won't be storing anything too heavy. (I have the same kind of shelves in my basement but 8' spans and they are not sagging at all -- I store pretty lightweight stuff on them as well.)
Thanks again and reps to all!
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):
Thanks to all of you!
, but it's actually a good idea to remember what we had to do to secure things back then.
