Header for load bearing wall? (flooring, ceiling, bathroom, insulation)
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I am in the process of renovating my master bathroom when my GC discovered a load bearing wall. The load bearing wall was previously the left-side of the shower enclosure that contained the water lines. We are expanding the shower but removing this wall and moving the water lines to the opposite wall. I have attached photos for reference but the GC (license/insured in NJ) didn't seem to be concerned. He recommended, I believe, a header (4X6"?) to replace the 2 2X4" that only span 1/2 the room to extend all the way to the other side of the room. A few questions:
1) Should I get a structure engineer to look at this?
2) Can I rely on the town inspector to confirm if the work was done properly?
3) Any idea why 2 - 2X4" used only 1/2 way? I guess it wasn't necessary due to the verticle stud in the middle.
4) Any reason why the different length on the 2 - 2X4"? On the left side, it is odd to me that only the bottom 2X4" lays atop the pair of studs. I can understand why they don't lay atop the verticle stud (that I am removing) as the top part of the frame for the wall was needed
5) If a 4X6 is adequate, why not a big bigger for the hell of it?
6) Bonus Question: There's a lot of insulation already but I see some holes and some rips, should I just replace those given the low cost point?
From the "general" description you gave- I have no idea!
So, with that information hire yourself a PE to assess the situation before moving forward. I could give you my thoughts "from the pics", but I'm sure that would end up only half right.
The photos are not really showing what we'd need to verify that there is a load FROM ABOVE being properly transferred. I imagine any responsible GC would not really want to do anything unless they were SURE it would be a viable long term solution; sorta surprised they did not suggest getting a licensed PE or architect to stamp the plans. Some towns have requirements for that.
I would NOT trust a town's inspectors to really understand a load transferring wall. That is "above their pay grade". They can verify that plumbing, electric, insulation and general framing are "to code" but it tricky with moving load bearing interior walls...
Framers generally try to "get by" with as little material as possible becuase a) faster / cheaper / easier to pound together b) makes things easier for drywall / flooring guys and trim carpenters to NOT have different wall thickness. I suppose you COULD use 2x6 for interior framing but then door are thicker / harder to set and even drywall & flooring guys are gonna be thrown for a little loop. If the architect / engineer does not spec it do not "overbuild" with just dimensional lumber. The load rating for DOUBLED 2x4 is far higher than SINGLE 2x6. Never really see doubled 2x6 for interior framing...
If you can clean out all the old insulation and re-insulation with new fiberglass that is worth the time -- insulation looses effectiveness when it gets coated with demolition debris. Fresh new fluffy batts will have full R-value. Even better? Hire spray foam crew. Much better product ESPECIALLY in larger bathroom in cold climate!
I'm going to assume that the wall that needs to come out is pictured in the second pic as the one coming from left to the post and then back to an apparent outside wall. That is also the wall that has the wiring in it. If that's the section to be removed, skip the internet and call an engineer. It would bother me that any "carpenter" of any experience would suggest a 4x6 when a double 2x 6 yields 15% more strength via the fb rating of the lumber. It picks this up as the 2 2x 6 has different grains. In my opinion, and I have zero clue about the load, a 4x6 or even a double 2x 6 is not near enough for the load as it's carrying ceiling joists of unknown length or load and rafters of unknown length or load. Obviously making that call from pics, which may not necessarily be 100% representative of the conditions and load. Most likely you are going to end up with a fairly good sized LVL across there with stacked studs to support it. A structural engineer needs to make the call though.
I'm going to assume that the wall that needs to come out is pictured in the second pic as the one coming from left to the post and then back to an apparent outside wall. That is also the wall that has the wiring in it. If that's the section to be removed, skip the internet and call an engineer. It would bother me that any "carpenter" of any experience would suggest a 4x6 when a double 2x 6 yields 15% more strength via the fb rating of the lumber. It picks this up as the 2 2x 6 has different grains. In my opinion, and I have zero clue about the load, a 4x6 or even a double 2x 6 is not near enough for the load as it's carrying ceiling joists of unknown length or load and rafters of unknown length or load. Obviously making that call from pics, which may not necessarily be 100% representative of the conditions and load. Most likely you are going to end up with a fairly good sized LVL across there with stacked studs to support it. A structural engineer needs to make the call though.
No. In the 1st picture, there is a beam in the middle with two photos taped to it. Isn't it impossible to determine load without seeing what is above?
No. In the 1st picture, there is a beam in the middle with two photos taped to it. Isn't it impossible to determine load without seeing what is above?
Here's another reason why I strongly suggest you hire a PE-
The first pic DOES NOT have a "beam" in it! What you're calling a beam is actually called a "post". Which is why as I stated in my first post "by your description".
If you knew the nomenclature of framing, and could apply it to, and with corresponding photos, could show a complete load path, then yeah we could come to a reasonable decision based on accurate information. Since that clearly isn't going to happen here- reassure YOURSELF; hire a PE to guide you and your "carpenter" to do it right!!!
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