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1) He is gluing the panel into the slot because he's using MDF not wood.
<>whereas the OP (if I understand correctly) already has the frame, with corners all made up and in good condition. This affects somewhat the order of operations.
All good points. I was interested in pointing the OP in the general direction of help, not in doing his homework for him.
Good point on the gloves. I sometimes use thin latex when doing this sort of thing.
As for the others, I have a radial arm saw as well. Big debate with my coworker back in 1970 when I bought this and he bought a table saw. You have to be very careful with either. I know of several DIY guys who are short-fingered due to one or the other.
All this talk of expensive power tools and sharp, pointy things is a bit of overkill. Use some small quarter round molding (Kelleher 1/4 in. x 1/4 in. Pine Quarter Round Moulding-P324 - The Home Depot) and picture frame both sides to hold the panel in place. All you need is a tape measure, hand saw and some brads.
All this talk of expensive power tools and sharp, pointy things is a bit of overkill. Use some small quarter round molding (Kelleher 1/4 in. x 1/4 in. Pine Quarter Round Moulding-P324 - The Home Depot) and picture frame both sides to hold the panel in place. All you need is a tape measure, hand saw and some brads.
Because it's an extremely versatile tool that can do the jobs of many tools if you know how to use it, especially if you make different fences, tables etc. If you only have the budget/room for one tool and can purchase for the right price you can use it for ripping, cross cutting, compound cuts, drill press, router, drum sander, dadoing etc.
They make an adapter for it that you can used to fit drill bits or other round bits like router bits. Matter of fact it might be very good job for this if the frames are already together because you will have a very large table to work on and can see what is going on.
Yes they can be hence the reason I suggested CL. The cost of a new one would be a lot for average homeowner and they would be better investing a few smaller tools.
The only thing you are going to use the slide for is setup if you were using router bit, once it's in the position you want you lock it. You have fence on the back, you would add the drill attachment an point it down and basically set it up like routing table but instead of the cutting motor on the bottom it's on the top.
Drill press? You point the motor backwards with the material against the fence, you push it into the work manually
You can do this with the cutting blades also but you need a set of dado blades.
So basically you are turning a radial arm saw into a Bridgeport mill of sorts.
I still say that for this one job I would buy #92 or equiv. bullnose or #78 handled rabbet plane, depending on size, and do the job slowly. Total equipment cost would be around $100. But, now that today's winner has chimed in, I would actually come up with some little bitty quarter round (of the right wood) and attach it with brads and glue, thus creating a slot additively rather than by subtraction.
So basically you are turning a radial arm saw into a Bridgeport mill of sorts.
What I'm saying is you can do a lot of stuff with it in particular you can do both crosscuts and rip with it and it can do them well without much hassle. As it is with most tools it's not what you can do with it but knowing how to do it. If you are only going to buy one tool it's probably the best bet for the homeowner.
As I said I would go on CL to look for one, 60's or 70's model of Craftsman or Delta. My Father has a Craftsman he bought in 71 and it's had a lot use. Think he replaced the bearings and brushes a few times, the switch also went and it now has receptacle mounted to it.
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I still say that for this one job I would buy #92 or equiv. bullnose or #78 handled rabbet plane, depending on size, and do the job slowly. Total equipment cost would be around $100.
IMO That's a lot work and something for someone with experienced. For that much you can buy a decent small router from Dewalt or whoever and the bit. Half that if you go to Harbor freight.
Hey there, I'm not sure if this is the best forum for this but I think it may be.
I'm refinishing a sideboard/buffet. The original buffet had cabinet doors with dowels (similar to this: http://walzcraft.com/wp-content/uplo...inet-Doors.png) I used a jigsaw to cut the dowels out and sanded down the "nubs". The interior walls of the frame are pretty smooth but it's almost impossible to get a perfectly smooth finish without rounding the remaining wood.
I want to put a panel in the opening (like this: https://i.pinimg.com/736x/8e/4f/49/8...4cfa257735.jpg). I have framed the interior with 1/4 inch square wood for the panel to be attached to (I felt the panel sat too far back in the door if I just attached it to the back).
My question is, I haven't cut the panel to fit the inside of the opening in the door. I believe that there may be a hair-line gap between the edges of the panel and the edges of the door. My question is, what can I use to fill that gap so that it is not noticeable? I'm going to paint the cabinet doors so I just need some sort of filler that will be flush with and not show a gap between the door and the panel.
Hope my descriptions made sense. Thanks!
Could you use some delicate molding, mitering the edges... to finish that gap and then paint the whole piece.
IMO That's a lot work and something for someone with experienced. For that much you can buy a decent small router from Dewalt or whoever and the bit. Half that if you go to Harbor freight.
If - you think you will ever have use for such a tool in the future.
Honestly, for a one-off, I would probably just do this with a small saw and a sharp chisel, finishing up with an Exacto knife. The OP doesn't appear to be wanting to get into production mode on this kind of thing, so spending two or three times longer than with power tools and special fixtures doesn't matter.
[Edit: honestly honestly, I would get some little bitty quarter round or similar and build up a little retaining frame as was suggested above]
On the other hand, if I had been waiting around for years for the final excuse to buy a router, then that would be a good time to do it. That is how I got a number of good tools (but no router, as yet - but who knows? I'm only 56, there is still time).
If - you think you will ever have use for such a tool in the future.
It's not going to get used much but probably more than the two hand held tools you suggested. For pratcical purposes you can use it like a zip saw in place of a jigsaw for cutting odd shapes or something like holes for a receptacle box in plywood. If you have steady enough hand you can make some pretty cool things because the shapes are limitless. If you have two pieces of flat material put together it can be used to remove any overlapping material to square them up, not a common task but the tool for the job. There is all kinds of things I can think of, on the fun side it's a good tool for the kids to use for hobby projects to make engraved signs etc.
I have two routers myself, the smaller one I bought for one purpose and it just has a round over bit on it. Seems like every time I need to round over something the bigger router had another bit in it. The other thing is you only need one hand with it. As simple example here you can turn flat stock into some basic moulding.
See the board on the left hand side? That's actually flat stock PVC for outside, it's the last thing I used it for.
You guys sure know how to turn a thread upside-down!!!
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