Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
My exposed deck is of an age where replacement of the pressure treated boards is going to have to happen soon. Most of it is fastened with deck screws, and removing all of them is unlikely due to damage to them. That means either getting under with a blade (not going to happen) or damaging the joists. Also at issue, the screws are where any new ones or nails would go, making the attachment weak.
I am toying with an idea that I have never seen done, placing plastic purlins on the existing deck directly over the existing joists, and then building the new deck surface over the old, separated by an airspace of about 3/4 inch.
Issues I can already see is that any rot of existing boards will remain and could spread to the joists (I have scabbed a couple joists in the past), ground moisture will still be condensing on the older boards (which may end up being a good thing), and some moisture and dirt may get caught between the layers (perhaps removing every other board of the existing deck would mitigate that).
OTOH, the double layer of deck will make the deck stronger, the job will be faster and easier, and the level of the deck will be closer to the level of the door leading to it. Since the original deck was built, I added a gutter over that area, so rain splash is not the issue it once was.
I would remove the obviously rotted decking boards (only about four of them are of concern).
This is a deck in the country, unseen by anyone but me, gf, and deer, and not subject to permit or inspection. Where I could do this job easily on my own, a tear-off and replacement would mean hiring labor which would be a budget stretch. Flex in the budget for more expensive options is not there, barring a lottery win from the rare times I buy a ticket. My other option comes down to replacing boards piecemeal, until it all goes pear-shaped.
Are the joists punky in spots? Decking boards punky?
We have a 20+ year old deck, and bad on us we let it kinda go. The face boards (facing the elements) was a little punky in spots and a joist or two under the decking had a soft spot or two. I removed some of the rotted wood and used a rotted wood restorer putty. I pressured wash all the grime of the deck and the rest of the exposed wood and then I used some Cabot deck correct product and it actually turned out pretty nice.
We did this 2 years ago during the height of COVID when we refused to pay the cost of lumber for a rip-off and rebuild. At the time I was hooping to buy about 5 years, but it's holding up really, really well.
You guys make me glad I had a big pad of aggregate concrete poured 20 years ago. I've been thinking I'm getting old enough to have a deck because it would outlive me. But, they are also a fire hazard with wildfires and such....
Trex, as well as other manufacturers do sell “flashing tape” that will sit between the wood decking and joists in order to prevent moisture that will inevitably be trapped between the two attached wood members.
Thanks. I've never seen it. For me, it is absolutely something to invest in.
Since you mention Trex, one of the other reasons composite is a no go for me is that it requires the 12" OC.
Are the joists punky in spots? Decking boards punky?
We have a 20+ year old deck, and bad on us we let it kinda go. The face boards (facing the elements) was a little punky in spots and a joist or two under the decking had a soft spot or two. I removed some of the rotted wood and used a rotted wood restorer putty. I pressured wash all the grime of the deck and the rest of the exposed wood and then I used some Cabot deck correct product and it actually turned out pretty nice.
We did this 2 years ago during the height of COVID when we refused to pay the cost of lumber for a rip-off and rebuild. At the time I was hooping to buy about 5 years, but it's holding up really, really well.
Your repair came out well.
I am looking at similar issues. The main area that has a problem had two 12 volt lead acid batteries sitting on it for about a year as part of an alternate energy setup. They never boiled over, but literally just having them sitting there did something to the wood. Surprised the heck out of me, since batteries sit in automobiles for years with no damage to the steel. My guess is that there was some fuming.
Knowing how fungus can spread, I'll likely cut out bad sections and scab or replace, along with dosing the area with fungicide.
Thanks. I've never seen it. For me, it is absolutely something to invest in.
Since you mention Trex, one of the other reasons composite is a no go for me is that it requires the 12" OC.
Normal spaced joists with perpendicular decking is pretty much standard and there are quality composites that are considerably less expensive than Trex.
My exposed deck is of an age where replacement of the pressure treated boards is going to have to happen soon. Most of it is fastened with deck screws, and removing all of them is unlikely due to damage to them. That means either getting under with a blade (not going to happen) or damaging the joists. Also at issue, the screws are where any new ones or nails would go, making the attachment weak.
I am toying with an idea that I have never seen done, placing plastic purlins on the existing deck directly over the existing joists, and then building the new deck surface over the old, separated by an airspace of about 3/4 inch.
Issues I can already see is that any rot of existing boards will remain and could spread to the joists (I have scabbed a couple joists in the past), ground moisture will still be condensing on the older boards (which may end up being a good thing), and some moisture and dirt may get caught between the layers (perhaps removing every other board of the existing deck would mitigate that).
OTOH, the double layer of deck will make the deck stronger, the job will be faster and easier, and the level of the deck will be closer to the level of the door leading to it. Since the original deck was built, I added a gutter over that area, so rain splash is not the issue it once was.
I would remove the obviously rotted decking boards (only about four of them are of concern).
This is a deck in the country, unseen by anyone but me, gf, and deer, and not subject to permit or inspection. Where I could do this job easily on my own, a tear-off and replacement would mean hiring labor which would be a budget stretch. Flex in the budget for more expensive options is not there, barring a lottery win from the rare times I buy a ticket. My other option comes down to replacing boards piecemeal, until it all goes pear-shaped.
The idea behind deck screws, is they can be reversed with very little damage. If your old screws have "rotted" then use stainless (or REAL deck screws in the future.)
Only you can decide how bad your existing structure is. We can't see it from here.
Are the joists punky in spots? Decking boards punky?
We have a 20+ year old deck, and bad on us we let it kinda go. The face boards (facing the elements) was a little punky in spots and a joist or two under the decking had a soft spot or two. I removed some of the rotted wood and used a rotted wood restorer putty. I pressured wash all the grime of the deck and the rest of the exposed wood and then I used some Cabot deck correct product and it actually turned out pretty nice.
We did this 2 years ago during the height of COVID when we refused to pay the cost of lumber for a rip-off and rebuild. At the time I was hooping to buy about 5 years, but it's holding up really, really well.
My deck is the color of the second pic using Cabot Solid Stain, 2 years, it looks like crap, peeling, cracking, rails are ok but the floor looks horrible. How do you get rid of solid stain? Don't mean to hijack the thread.
My deck is the color of the second pic using Cabot Solid Stain, 2 years, it looks like crap, peeling, cracking, rails are ok but the floor looks horrible. How do you get rid of solid stain? Don't mean to hijack the thread.
Oil- based or acrylic?
You can start with pressure-washing. From there it will depend on that question above. The overall condition of the wood will also be a factor- sometimes it isn't worth all the effort to "restore" deck boards to accept a new/better finish. Which means replacing the boards and starting with a good, well proven, deck finish and a regimented maintenance schedule.
You can start with pressure-washing. From there it will depend on that question above. The overall condition of the wood will also be a factor- sometimes it isn't worth all the effort to "restore" deck boards to accept a new/better finish. Which means replacing the boards and starting with a good, well proven, deck finish and a regimented maintenance schedule.
Thank you Kb! I don't know the answer to for oil based or acrylic, just solid stain. And why Pvc over Trex? Doesn't it warp, leave stains from pots or mats and such?
My deck is the color of the second pic using Cabot Solid Stain, 2 years, it looks like crap, peeling, cracking, rails are ok but the floor looks horrible. How do you get rid of solid stain? Don't mean to hijack the thread.
The original stain on the deck was an oil based stain. I pressure washed the old deck finish off really well then I laid down the Cabot Deck Correct product. It has a consistency of creamy peanut butter but a tad thinner. It can be used over oil based stain.
So far it's holding up. The colors are limited though. We laugh and call this 'redwood' color Boy Scout Camp Latrine red.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
