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It does open/close, when I use the wall switch, but I must push the button and hold, until it opens.
When I use any of my car garage door openers, it does not open, or close. However, it does jerk once and the lights blink several times.
YouTube does not list this kind of problems...
Last edited by Maple47; 08-20-2023 at 09:22 AM..
Reason: Clarification of the question
Since the opener will open the door- that rules out a broken spring.
And since it will also close- that kinda rules out mis-aligned safety eyes.
So, that pretty much leaves the logic board (electronic circuit board)- boards going bad is rather common issue; and an easy repair for someone with good DIY capabilities.
It does open/close, when I use the wall switch, but I must push the button and hold, until it opens.
When I use any of my car garage door openers, it does not open, or close. However, it does jerk!
YouTube does not list this kind of problems...
Check the alignment of the two little "electric eye" sensors. There is one near the bottom of each rail. The light on each sensor should be steady "ON", i.e. not blinking. If one of the lights is blinking then the sensors are not in alignment and it won't let the door go down.
Also, there is a limit switch (I think that's what it's called) on the main rail where the belt or chain runs. Sometimes this switch becomes loose and out of adjustment and that affects the operation of the door.
I'm not a pro on garage door openers, but these are some things I would check on. Good luck.
I had a garage door that wouldl open partially and then close, or close partially, then re-open depending upon it's position when the button or remote is pressed.
BUT, If you hold the wall button down the entire time the door is operating it functions perfectly open to close or close to open.
I aligned the electronic "eyes". The are perfect, I checked the alignment of bar/rail connecting the motor to the door. All fine!
Then I noticed there was a slight worn spot on the left side of the door as it came in contact with the wood frame near the door rail track where it C-curves at the top. I smeared a bit of vaseline on the worn spot and the door functioned just fine. Once I knew what the issue was, (door binding) it was easy to correct. I could adjust the door rails just a tiny bit and the binding problem was solved.
OK, I know the root cause.
If I do not park my Outback deeply enough, the bumper stays on the way of the light beam.
The good thing is the cost of this reair was Zero!
The manual reads:"If your model has the Lock feature, make sure it is off."
However, where do I find this feature? No information.
Does anybody know?
On "older" models, the lock switch is a tiny lever located on the control unit on the wall. You can flip the switch to the "Lock" position to stop someone (including YOU) from using a remote to operate the door. It may even stop the control from operating the door.
On newer model controls, you have to cycle through the menu of the control on the wall to find it.
I don't think that is your problem or the door wouldn't work at all.
OK, I know the root cause.
If I do not park my Outback deeply enough, the bumper stays on the way of the light beam.
The good thing is the cost of this reair was Zero!
Ah Ha! So it was the light sensors near the bottom of the rail that was the problem! My suggestion is that you need to lower those sensors to a height of about 5" off the floor. A car bumper shouldn't be low enough to block the beam from those sensors.
OK, I know the root cause.
If I do not park my Outback deeply enough, the bumper stays on the way of the light beam.
The good thing is the cost of this reair was Zero!
Clearly, the sensors ARE NOT IN THE CORRECT POSITION!
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