Drainage issue; how to fix?

[LakeLifePA]

Originally Posted by rabbit33

I don't see the clean-out where you can snake out the inevitable leaf debris from those blue drain pipes. I'm not a fan of this idea of connecting the downspouts to the drains. I think you'll be a lot happier with an air gap between, for the ability to clean and inspect.

Which is why we use this for the drain: (as well as gutter guards)



I flush it with water every few months. The system has been installed for a year with no problems whatsoever.

[DesertRat56]

Originally Posted by Wartrace

My driveway goes through a low spot on the property that has been the main runoff area of a neighboring field. I estimate the area that is drained is about 4 to 5 acres. When we get heavy rains the runoff goes across my driveway and down into the natural runoff path. The area of concern is about 12 ft wide.

When I first bought the property it wasn't too much of a concern since it was a hay field and the water was soaked up with not much runoff. Now the property is a lawn which doesn't retain the water as much. Someone in the past had poured some concrete on the downhill side of the drive to prevent erosion however it wasn't all that great of a job. Over the past year or two, I have noticed erosion increasing and I need to direct water past my drive and further down the hill.

I am going to rectify the problem. I was wondering which option would be best.

A) Build a concrete wall with a drain pipe. This would probably be the most reliable option but a bit complicated for a DIY'er with no experience.

B) Use a French drain like this - https://www.lowes.com/pd/NDS-4-in-x-...n-Pipe/3136611
Option B might work fine to reduce erosion and seems as if it would be easier to install. The plan would be to dig a trench to accommodate the French drain and cover it with a thin layer of gravel. In order to slow the water so it can get into the drain I could put railroad ties behind the drain.

The cost to do the French Drain would be about 300 dollars whereas I estimate the concrete work would be at least 1500 dollars. I would be willing to risk losing the 300 bucks if it does not work out.

Any thoughts?

Yes- I was up at 3am thinking about this. Thank goodness this is the only thing keeping me up at night!

Probably the easiest way to fix this is to get a culvert pipe and build up your driveway over that so that the drainage is not diverted and no longer floods your driveway.

[Wartrace]

Originally Posted by DesertRat56

Probably the easiest way to fix this is to get a culvert pipe and build up your driveway over that so that the drainage is not diverted and no longer floods your driveway.

That is a good idea. One of the problems is that the water comes down in a wide area (about 15 feet wide). I guess I could build it up and put smaller sized gravel to prevent water from seeping under the stones and direct water to the pipe. Any better ideas on what to put on the up-water side of the culvert?

[Rickcin]

Originally Posted by Wartrace

That is a good idea. One of the problems is that the water comes down in a wide area (about 15 feet wide). I guess I could build it up and put smaller sized gravel to prevent water from seeping under the stones and direct water to the pipe. Any better ideas on what to put on the up-water side of the culvert?

What about re-grading the area to create a wide gentle swale that would narrow to direct the water to the culvert?

If that cannot be accomplished and it’s a narrow path to the culvert, then a rip-rap or paved swale (grid blocks that allow grass to grow through) to the culvert might be a viable solution.

An examination of the existing conditions would be required in order to determine the best remedy to resolve the issue.