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Over a 3 hour span, I used the oven for 2 hours, toaster oven for about 40 minutes, ran the dishwasher, flipped on a few more lights, opened the garage door a few times turned the pool pump on to 80% speed, ran the two A/C units about 2 hours (between them), all the ceiling fans on, all the computers on, brewed a pot of coffee, boiled some water in the electric kettle, and even vacuumed the floors for about 30 minutes. I used 21 KWh in that 3 hour span--- about 7KWh average for one hour.. With that usage, I'd consider it medium high. I didn't run the spa bubbles or run the washing machine and the A/C usage could've been a little heavier. SO assuming "heavy usage" would be 8 or 9 KWh, what generator rating would that translate to? I was "told" I need the 26KW.
It sounds like it's more of a scientific problem to determine if the gas can be piggy-backed onto the 2" pool heater piping. The literature mentions 1-1/4" line, so I would expect 2" gas pipe would be better.... although that gas line run from the meter to the pool heater is about 160',... and would be an additional 20' to the generator....
Over a 3 hour span, I used the oven for 2 hours, toaster oven for about 40 minutes, ran the dishwasher, flipped on a few more lights, opened the garage door a few times turned the pool pump on to 80% speed, ran the two A/C units about 2 hours (between them), all the ceiling fans on, all the computers on, brewed a pot of coffee, boiled some water in the electric kettle, and even vacuumed the floors for about 30 minutes. I used 21 KWh in that 3 hour span--- about 7KWh average for one hour.. With that usage, I'd consider it medium high. I didn't run the spa bubbles or run the washing machine and the A/C usage could've been a little heavier. SO assuming "heavy usage" would be 8 or 9 KWh, what generator rating would that translate to? I was "told" I need the 26KW.
It sounds like it's more of a scientific problem to determine if the gas can be piggy-backed onto the 2" pool heater piping. The literature mentions 1-1/4" line, so I would expect 2" gas pipe would be better.... although that gas line run from the meter to the pool heater is about 160',... and would be an additional 20' to the generator....
^ an 'average' power load test like this is helpful to keep from 'grossly' underestimating size,
but you must also take into account that certain items (with big electric-motors in them) require a HIGH 'peak' watts to start them!
A 5-Ton ac unit for example will need every bit of a large generator to START it!
(this can be mitigated though with an intelligent starter for the AC like this - https://www.amazon.com/ASY-368-X72-B...ef_=ast_sto_dp
research the LRA amps for the compressor in your largest AC unit - that will tell you what you need (peak) to start it without a smart-starter.
^ an 'average' power load test like this is helpful to keep from 'grossly' underestimating size,
but you must also take into account that certain items (with big electric-motors in them) require a HIGH 'peak' watts to start them!
A 5-Ton ac unit for example will need every bit of a large generator to START it!
(this can be mitigated though with an intelligent starter for the AC like this - https://www.amazon.com/ASY-368-X72-B...ef_=ast_sto_dp
research the LRA amps for the compressor in your largest AC unit - that will tell you what you need (peak) to start it without a smart-starter.
Inrush. We have discussed this before. You'll note that I suggested something that could load shift and allow for startups.
A modern 5 ton won't start with heavy inrush. Older models, yeah, might complain a little without help.
If 7 is an average number, I would be going for a 10 to 12 Kw unit, whichever is more common, since parts may be available for longer.
I still say if you have an electric range and unreliable power supply, you would be better off with a gas range. Water heater as well.
As Harry pointed out, if you are running a big generator at more or less full load, you will find out the hard way how cost-efficient mains power is. It's a good deal in most places. Something like 2/3 of the natural gas BTUs you use in the genset goes up the tailpipe or out the radiator. If you can use this heat, for example in winter, it makes more sense. But you are paying for all the gas you burn, even though you are only getting about 1/3 of the BTU equivalent in electric power.
Using electric power so generated to heat an electric oven will cost you about 3X what just burning gas for a gas oven would. Simple engineering physics.
Again it depends on what level of replacement power you want, to determine what size genset you need/want. If you are willing to avoid power hog operations, you can get by with a smaller genset, which will cost less to buy and cost less to run. If you insist on roasting that Thanksgiving turkey in your existing electric oven, on genset power, your bullheadedness is going to cost you.
That said, you are much better off with a genset that can make somewhat more power than you will generally use, so it's not operating "flat out" often or ever.
I'll be the counterpoint here and say that if you don't have natural gas, solar+battery is a much more reliable solution. I live in an area without natural gas and my generator has a ~4 day supply of propane. During one storm, the propane company said they couldn't make it to us for 6 days. It was fine, I just ran the generator off and on instead of 24/7 but it was certainly annoying.
Solar + battery recharges every day. As long as your battery is sized for 2 days or so, or allows a small generator input for really long stretches of poor weather, you have effectively unlimited power.
I'll be the counterpoint here and say that if you don't have natural gas, solar+battery is a much more reliable solution. I live in an area without natural gas and my generator has a ~4 day supply of propane. During one storm, the propane company said they couldn't make it to us for 6 days. It was fine, I just ran the generator off and on instead of 24/7 but it was certainly annoying.
Solar + battery recharges every day. As long as your battery is sized for 2 days or so, or allows a small generator input for really long stretches of poor weather, you have effectively unlimited power.
OK, I agree with your counterpoint, but it is a matter of style.
One hurricane in Florida went through where we lived and we were without power for eleven days. I had one used solar panel, six golf cart batteries, a 5,000 watt construction generator, and four gallons of gasoline. During the eleven days, the refrigerator was kept on all the time, we had fans, tv with satellite, and hot water from the electric water heater for showers and to wash clothes. When it was hot, I bumped on a little window unit AC I had stuck in a patio door. At the end of the eleven days, I still had some gasoline but had damaged the golf cart batteries enough that they needed to be replaced within the year.
Some people, for whatever reason, can't or don't want to make adjustments like that. They get to pay for the privilege.
I can vouch for the Generac natural gas generators.. We have one here at our office and it's worked like a champ when it has been needed. Service it once a year.. It tests itself once a week.
Generac SOLAR.. on the other hand.. Remember, that's the ones making the equipment that PowerHome Solar/Pink Energy was installing
Now.. They're pointing fingers at each other as to who was the problem.. But.. There are some class action suits against Generac over these. So, if you were to plan on going to the solar/battery route.. I'd look at someone using other equipment.. Be it Sunpower or Tesla or whoever.. But I would stay pretty far from Generac on that.
I didn't use a GC. I have a good electrician and just turned the project over to him. I ordered a Generac generator, but there was a long wait and the electrician had a customer order a Cummins and change their mind, so I grabbed it while it was available. I really love it. It is quiet and I can't hear it running while I am in the house and when outside, it sounds like a well tuned small car is running in my driveway.
As for solar, it won't work unless you have the battery tied type and that needs constant maintenance. It is also expensive, and I would worry about the solar collectors in high winds, rain, or snow. It can blow off the roof and you won't get any power if the panels are covered in snow.
I got both a new gas meter and a new larger gas line. I'm not sure but I think the new meter was enough for the generator, but I also ran a long gas line to a shop to install gas heat in the shop. However, both things happened at once, so I'm not sure what would have been adequate for the generator all by itself.
I pay an annual service fee to a service company that comes out once a year and changes the oil, inspects, and gives a tune-up, so I am not servicing the system myself.
I didn't use a GC. I have a good electrician and just turned the project over to him. I ordered a Generac generator, but there was a long wait and the electrician had a customer order a Cummins and change their mind, so I grabbed it while it was available. I really love it. It is quiet and I can't hear it running while I am in the house and when outside, it sounds like a well tuned small car is running in my driveway.
As for solar, it won't work unless you have the battery tied type and that needs constant maintenance. It is also expensive, and I would worry about the solar collectors in high winds, rain, or snow. It can blow off the roof and you won't get any power if the panels are covered in snow.
I got both a new gas meter and a new larger gas line. I'm not sure but I think the new meter was enough for the generator, but I also ran a long gas line to a shop to install gas heat in the shop. However, both things happened at once, so I'm not sure what would have been adequate for the generator all by itself.
I pay an annual service fee to a service company that comes out once a year and changes the oil, inspects, and gives a tune-up, so I am not servicing the system myself.
I had solar (no battery) installed late last year. This was a concern of mine.. I mean, you put 20 panels on your roof.. Big, flat.. Gee.. That kinda looks like.. A wing.. Wings generate lift.
But.. Panels are mounted about an inch off the roof itself.. So, it really limits how much air can get under them, which.. In turn, lowers the amount of lift. So.. Yes.. That's a concern that you think of, but it's really not an issue.
Obviously, solar won't generate any power when.. There's no sun. If a reason for having the backup is in case of a nuclear winter.. Well, solar probably isn't a great idea..
But.. If you lived on the coast or something.. Hurricanes.. I can see solar with battery backup being worthwhile.
Especially with the rebates. Depends where you are, but I only paid for about 45% of my solar installation. Rest was covered by the feds and state of SC.
The thing about installing solar.. I did it when I had to have my roof replaced. and, the roofers partnered with a solar company.. So.. It was basically a one-stop shop for me.. The other advantage.. if the roof WERE to leak.. There's no finger pointing between the roofer and the solar company.
Certainly something to keep in mind. If your roof is 20 years old.. I don't know that i'd stick solar on it.. Seems the time to do it is when the roof needs replacing.
I will say.. The reason I didn't get battery backup.. I just don't feel the technology is quite there yet. Plus, concerns about the batteries used.. Maintenance, etc. I think we're still 5-10 years from those things being much, much better than they are now. And perhaps, much, much cheaper.
I had solar (no battery) installed late last year. .......
A grid tied system is much cheaper and has much less maintenance because it is the batteries that are so expensive and require constant care,
However, you do know that when the power grid is down, your solar electric won't work? If you are getting solar panels so you will have electricity in an emergency, then you need a battery system which is not connected the grid.
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