Dishwasher installation help please (flooring, countertop, sink, appliance)
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OK, this may seem like a silly question, but we remodeling our kitchen, and just put in new cabinets. We did not have a dishwasher, and now we have a Kitchenaid DW.
When I installed the cabinets, I made the opening exactly 24".
Right now my wife has it pushed all the way in, and the rubber gasket is about 1" behind the cabinet face, and if the machine isn't exactly on center, one side or the other of top part of the door where the control panel is (which is slightly wider than the rest of the door) will scrape the side of the cabinet when closing.
If I move the DW out to where the rubber gasket if flush with the face of the cabinet, there's no problem.
Question is: How far out should the dishwasher protrude form the face of the cabinets? Anyone have any pictures they can post?
1. As far out as it still looks OK to you.
2. Not too far that the attachment brackets won't work.
3. Look at the installation instructions (I know that smacks in the face of everything normal - reading the instructions).
4. You can always trim of cabinet sides slightly to get the door to open and close without rubbing.
There is no right or wrong way. Whatever works best for the situation.
Normally you try to set it up with the door just flush with the cabinet trim but depending on the situation, cabinets, dishwasher it can vary exactly how you might install it. Whatever looks the best and still functions.
In my present kitchen the dishwasher is installed without even putting in a base cabinet. Not enough room to get one in, just hung a chunk of counter off the back wall and stuck in some custom legs and sidewall. Your typical custom solution to a problem where it will only go in with very exact sizing. It all works if you make it look pretty, nobody can tell it ain't the standard junk.
Not home right now, don't have any pixs to show you at this time.
First off your opening for your DW should be 24 1/4" always always always or your DW door will hit the cabinet sides. But I suspect it's too late now. From there I can say after installing about 6000 DWs and probably more then that, that there is no right and wrong. Like some one already said.
I set the top mounting tabs of the DW right at the outer under edge of the subtop. That always sets the doors exactly correct. You must predrill these holes in the particle board (sorry for cursing but that is what it is) subtop or the thick threaded screws will rip it up.
If you can not open that DW opening then you will have to mount the DW in a position that is not what you wish it to be.
First off your opening for your DW should be 24 1/4" always always always or your DW door will hit the cabinet sides. But I suspect it's too late now. From there I can say after installing about 6000 DWs and probably more then that, that there is no right and wrong. Like some one already said.
I set the top mounting tabs of the DW right at the outer under edge of the subtop. That always sets the doors exactly correct. You must predrill these holes in the particle board (sorry for cursing but that is what it is) subtop or the thick threaded screws will rip it up.
If you can not open that DW opening then you will have to mount the DW in a position that is not what you wish it to be.
Your post takes on a whole new nuance when you are used to reading "DW" as "Dear Wife"
I found the vertical dimension of the wash cabinet part of our dishwasher is so close to the top that the leveling feet had to be removed to make it fit under our standard height counter. I'd say, if anything the right way is to buy the dishwasher first and built the cabinets around it.
Your post takes on a whole new nuance when you are used to reading "DW" as "Dear Wife"
I found the vertical dimension of the wash cabinet part of our dishwasher is so close to the top that the leveling feet had to be removed to make it fit under our standard height counter. I'd say, if anything the right way is to buy the dishwasher first and built the cabinets around it.
Why bother when every single DW made no matter what make it is, is exactly the same? Not counting the few 18" models you can find if you look real hard.
If you had to remove the DW feet then you installed your cabinets first and then a thick tile or wood floor. That would have made the actual DW opening height at 34" or even less rather then the necessary 34.5"
Last edited by desertsun41; 05-03-2009 at 11:38 AM..
Reason: add
Actually, there were a couple of issues. The counter was pre-made, standard construction, mounted on TOP of a tile floor, so the the height was standard and was regularly used with other dishwasher models. The sound absorbing blanket wasn't part of the dimensions for this washer, so the choice was to remove either the feet or forgo the SAB. The counter design had a variation that made removing the feet a requirement anyway, it had a rolled front on the countertop that just skimmed the top of the washer sans feet.
My point is that dishwasher dimensions have come to the point that every last tenth of an inch is used, and the recommended clearances now leave no room for error. Forty years ago, IIRC, there was enough room for a bit of play. I'm willing to bet that within the next few years there will be a news standard opening size for a new jumbo sized series of washers anyway. People have too many dishes and pots, and by having a larger capacity washer, energy and time could be saved.
The dishwasher should have had exact measure of the opening and instruction. Its best to refer to these. Its also best to look at measure for any appliance and either go to their website or get them from the dealer ofor these before buying.
Actually, there were a couple of issues. The counter was pre-made, standard construction, mounted on TOP of a tile floor, so the the height was standard and was regularly used with other dishwasher models. The sound absorbing blanket wasn't part of the dimensions for this washer, so the choice was to remove either the feet or forgo the SAB. The counter design had a variation that made removing the feet a requirement anyway, it had a rolled front on the countertop that just skimmed the top of the washer sans feet.
My point is that dishwasher dimensions have come to the point that every last tenth of an inch is used, and the recommended clearances now leave no room for error. Forty years ago, IIRC, there was enough room for a bit of play. I'm willing to bet that within the next few years there will be a news standard opening size for a new jumbo sized series of washers anyway. People have too many dishes and pots, and by having a larger capacity washer, energy and time could be saved.
Ya know.....you are probably right about that. Many large kitchens today I put 2 DWs in its design. Usually one on each side of the sink. Why not come up with a new jumbo DW? Like a 30" sized one? Good idea.
Here's a little funny side note about dishwasher installation.
I inspect a lot of flip houses. Almost every one has a new floor in the kitchen, many of them tile. Instead of removing any of the old stuff, they just install the backer board and tiles on top of the old flooring. And this is where the problems start.
They have now increased the thickness of the flooring about 3/4" of an inch, and when it comes time to replace the dishwasher, it will be very difficult to remove the old one.
Adding to the problem is when they install tile counter tops too, so removing the counter top to remove the dishwasher is now pretty much impossible for an "easy" replacement.
Got to love those flipping flippers.
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Whatever works best
