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Old 06-15-2012, 06:44 PM
 
97 posts, read 373,747 times
Reputation: 47

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We are redoing our driveway and are trying to decide between all pavers and paver/asphalt combo.

Aesthetically, we are leaning towards the paver/asphalt combo...but I want to make sure that it is long lasting. We live about 1/2 mile from the water on the south shore, so I am concerned about ground shift affecting the pavers and such.

Suggestions and advice are needed!

TY!
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Old 06-15-2012, 06:47 PM
 
Location: North Beach, MD on the Chesapeake
38,431 posts, read 50,005,901 times
Reputation: 50728
Here in MD near the Chesapeake, asphalt for driveways is pretty much a no go. Porous concrete, gravel or pavers are the accepted materials now.

Pavers look better. If installed correctly the only shift you should have is from an earthquake.
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:36 AM
 
Location: Nesconset, NY
2,202 posts, read 3,931,600 times
Reputation: 2143
Quote:
Originally Posted by KStarfish82 View Post
We are redoing our driveway and are trying to decide between all pavers and paver/asphalt combo.

Aesthetically, we are leaning towards the paver/asphalt combo...but I want to make sure that it is long lasting. We live about 1/2 mile from the water on the south shore, so I am concerned about ground shift affecting the pavers and such.

Suggestions and advice are needed!

TY!
I'm a fan of reclaimed bricks for the treads (where the vehicle's tires will roll) with gravel in-between and on either side.

Reclaimed bricks come in a variety of weathered reds and browns which help avoid that sterile, "brand new" look. Once grass or moss begins to grow between the bricks one gets a "country lane" aesthetic and the vegetation stabilizes the bricks from shifting so much and helps prevent the soil from between them from eroding (they also act as a bit of an anti-slip surface in the winter).

Under the gravel, sheets of geotextile fabric (expensive) or 6 mil plastic (sloped for drainage) helps prevent weeds from developing deep root systems (they'll still grow but are easy to pull out) and helps prevent the gravel from sinking from incidental/occasional drive-overs with the vehicles.

Snowblowers & snowblades (on the front of pick-up trucks) use a skid to prevent grabbing the gravel during snow removal.
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:07 AM
 
245 posts, read 460,994 times
Reputation: 88
We had a huge asphalt driveway put in a few years ago and love the driveway, hate that the asphalt mades my carpets black. It not the dirt from outside it's the dry in the asphalt. Just something to think about.
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:33 AM
 
1,377 posts, read 4,975,778 times
Reputation: 879
I personally think all pavers on a driveway is a bit of a waste of $$. we currrently have (it came iwth the house) paver boarder around concrete. a lot of my neighbors have that or a paver boarder around asphalt, all the driveways were done by the same guy over the years. Either or, I find the more attractive to be a paver boarder around asphalt.

I'd rather have the asphalt driveway and a paver patio out back than a big paver driveway.
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Old 06-19-2012, 12:30 PM
 
2,630 posts, read 4,629,890 times
Reputation: 1771
Pavers just look so dang spiffy and add tremendous curb appeal. Asphalt in summer is a drag.
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:51 AM
 
44 posts, read 79,269 times
Reputation: 19
Go for the real brick...anything else is second rate.
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:09 PM
 
147 posts, read 500,611 times
Reputation: 78
Pavers are esthetically nicer than asphalt but they also cost a lot more. Pavers if done correctly have a concrete poured base substructure so no shifting or settling is seen. That is why you see a wide variation in costs for paver jobs because some contractors just compact the soil underneath and don't pour concrete or worse yet some contractors don't even compact the soil properly.
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:19 PM
 
Location: Nesconset, NY
2,202 posts, read 3,931,600 times
Reputation: 2143
Pavers, if done *really* correctly, have a thoroughly tamped/compacted soil base, with a 2"-4" screed sand drainage layer (some like to put a pea gravel layer in before the sand), then pavers. Then sand is swept across the pavers to thoroughly fill in gaps between the pavers. This process allows for easy repairs or replacement. It is also less expensive and easier to install without concrete.

Tree roots, erosion, and frost uplift may cause the pavers to shift regardless which way they're installed. If the pavers are set in concrete this can become an expensive and messy repair as large areas of pavers are likely to shift along with the slab of concrete on which they are set. If the pavers are set in sand the repair is easy as only those pavers directly affected are of concern.

Also, if the pavers are set in concrete, drainage can become a problem (especially for inclined driveways leading to a basement level garage).
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