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Old 03-03-2013, 08:59 AM
 
1 posts, read 3,334 times
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Hello all,

My wife and I are currently contemplating a move to the Miami area and we are looking primarily at these 3 areas. We are both Native Floridians (she from Miami, me from Lakeland) and we have been living in Manhattan for the past 9 years. We had a baby in September and our darling daughter is, hmmm, how shall I say it, spirited. We are drowning up here with no family support and are contemplating this move to Miami as my wife's entire family is there and would be able to give us help with our daughter.

A little about us: We are 34 and 33 years of age, respectively. I have a daughter age 11 from my first marriage who lives in Tampa, so this move would put us closer to her geographically which is good. We are both musicians at heart, although my wife has been working in legal publishing sales for the last 7 years. She is very fortunate to have a good paying job that she can do from anywhere and will be working exclusively from home. I am a working musician (a pianist) and do a little bit of everything: teach lessons, accompany singers/instrumentalists, church music, piano bar, you name it. So we won't have any real commute to speak of. My wife is Cuban but hasn't lived in Miami in 15 years, so although she is a native she doesn't know how areas might have changed since she was younger. I am a whiteboy, although my Spanish is pretty good, and I would be fluent after a year or so in Miami. My wife's family lives primarily in Kendall and North Miami. We don't want to be too close (haha) or too far from them if possible.

We love living in NYC without a car, and although I don't think that is realistic in Miami, we would love to be in an area where we didn't have to use our car everyday. We'd like to have grocery stores, restaurants, clothing stores within walking distance, and would rather avoid chains. Basically we are looking to find the closest thing possible to our Upper West Side neighborhood in the Miami area. We tend to gravitate toward artist types (musicians, actors, artists) and would like to try and make some friends in our general area.

We'd prefer a standalone house, although a townhouse could work provided that the sound insulation is good (I'm a pianist, remember). We would love to have a pool if we can make it work for our budget. We are looking for 3/4 bedrooms, square footage is not as important (we've been living in an 1100 sq. ft. apt. for the past 5 years and have made it work, anything in Miami is going to be an upgrade to that. We are looking to pay no more than $4500/month. Any recommendations for outstanding realtors in these areas would be welcomed. Also, in Miami do you have to pay the real estate broker's fee like you do in the New York area?

I am averse to the Florida heat (one of the main reasons I got out of FL in the first place). I've heard that Miami Beach tends to be a few degrees cooler than the mainland. If anyone could confirm/deny this it would be helpful, this could be a factor for us.

What would be extremely helpful is if you all could provide some impressions/specifics on the 3 areas listed in the subject line or suggest any other areas that might fit what we are looking for.

Also, to be honest, I'm not thrilled about this potential move, but realize that it might be what we need for this moment in our life. I'm willing to take one for the team so to speak, but if anyone could try and pump me up or sell me on Miami, it would be a huge help.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:29 AM
 
Location: Miami/ Washington DC
4,836 posts, read 12,013,887 times
Reputation: 2600
Coconut Grove is a decent spot for you especially if you can find a place near its downtown district/cocowalk. You have to be a little careful because there is a small but bad area near by but you would be albe to tell by pictures and prices easily.

Another area I suggest is Surfside. It might not have the actor art thing which you want but it is walkable to some stores and a family friendly area near the beach but cheaper than places near by.

I will send you a PM of a great realtor. And no there are no fees for using a realtor.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:54 AM
 
Location: Florida
1,049 posts, read 961,915 times
Reputation: 940
I agree that Coconut Grove is probably best for your situation, it caters to the artsy individual and has an urban feel but also has houses with yards or large semi-detached homes and some decent schools, if you live between about 22nd Ave and 32nd Ave the commercial center (Cocowalk) is very walkable and you would be near the metro and US1 so transportation would not be difficult.
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:29 PM
 
261 posts, read 704,800 times
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I agree with the above, The Grove seems to be a nice area for what you're seeking. While it's not quite walking distance, there's a nice grocery store called Milam's a short distance away; it's a chain, but I think there are only 5 as opposed to 500, if that makes a difference to you? Plenty of unique, non-chain places to eat in the Grove.

If you were to move to the Beach, you'd want to be north of South Beach (probably above 41st Street). That's where you'd be most likely to find your family-type environments on Miami Beach with something close to the size house that you're looking for. A decent amount of stuff within walking distance on the Beach as well.

Coral Gables is less walkable from neighborhoods with houses to the main drag of Miracle Mile. That being said, probably the most family-oriented of the neighborhoods on your list; plenty of room for walking with the family for exercise or just strolling. Nice parks and safe living. Pricey, but you should have your choice of homes within your price range.

Your Spanish should do you fine; you're not going to be discussing politics or global warming (at least to start lol); your conversations with Spanish speakers down here will probably be limited to simple business transactions, ordering food or asking/giving directions. If you work at it, you'll be a pro in no time.

I've thought many a time about moving to Manhattan because I LOVE it there, even though I've only been there 3 times as a tourist. Miami is disappointing to compare to Manhattan, so best to just take it for what it is: completely different. My recommendation would be to get involved in some different organizations (academic, religious, community service, general interest, etc.) to meet people and I think you'll find that despite the amount of drama and unfriendliness you find on the streets down here, there are good people that are worth having in your life; at least I know there are in mine.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:16 AM
 
Location: America
6,993 posts, read 17,373,482 times
Reputation: 2093
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jandcdawg View Post
Hello all,

My wife and I are currently contemplating a move to the Miami area and we are looking primarily at these 3 areas. We are both Native Floridians (she from Miami, me from Lakeland) and we have been living in Manhattan for the past 9 years. We had a baby in September and our darling daughter is, hmmm, how shall I say it, spirited. We are drowning up here with no family support and are contemplating this move to Miami as my wife's entire family is there and would be able to give us help with our daughter.

A little about us: We are 34 and 33 years of age, respectively. I have a daughter age 11 from my first marriage who lives in Tampa, so this move would put us closer to her geographically which is good. We are both musicians at heart, although my wife has been working in legal publishing sales for the last 7 years. She is very fortunate to have a good paying job that she can do from anywhere and will be working exclusively from home. I am a working musician (a pianist) and do a little bit of everything: teach lessons, accompany singers/instrumentalists, church music, piano bar, you name it. So we won't have any real commute to speak of. My wife is Cuban but hasn't lived in Miami in 15 years, so although she is a native she doesn't know how areas might have changed since she was younger. I am a whiteboy, although my Spanish is pretty good, and I would be fluent after a year or so in Miami. My wife's family lives primarily in Kendall and North Miami. We don't want to be too close (haha) or too far from them if possible.

We love living in NYC without a car, and although I don't think that is realistic in Miami, we would love to be in an area where we didn't have to use our car everyday. We'd like to have grocery stores, restaurants, clothing stores within walking distance, and would rather avoid chains. Basically we are looking to find the closest thing possible to our Upper West Side neighborhood in the Miami area. We tend to gravitate toward artist types (musicians, actors, artists) and would like to try and make some friends in our general area.

We'd prefer a standalone house, although a townhouse could work provided that the sound insulation is good (I'm a pianist, remember). We would love to have a pool if we can make it work for our budget. We are looking for 3/4 bedrooms, square footage is not as important (we've been living in an 1100 sq. ft. apt. for the past 5 years and have made it work, anything in Miami is going to be an upgrade to that. We are looking to pay no more than $4500/month. Any recommendations for outstanding realtors in these areas would be welcomed. Also, in Miami do you have to pay the real estate broker's fee like you do in the New York area?

I am averse to the Florida heat (one of the main reasons I got out of FL in the first place). I've heard that Miami Beach tends to be a few degrees cooler than the mainland. If anyone could confirm/deny this it would be helpful, this could be a factor for us.

What would be extremely helpful is if you all could provide some impressions/specifics on the 3 areas listed in the subject line or suggest any other areas that might fit what we are looking for.

Also, to be honest, I'm not thrilled about this potential move, but realize that it might be what we need for this moment in our life. I'm willing to take one for the team so to speak, but if anyone could try and pump me up or sell me on Miami, it would be a huge help.
Hello,

I am a Native New Yorker and I now live in Miami. To be honest, you are not going to find anything like that out here. Also, I live in the Grove and my place is 650 sq. So don't think you are going to get a upgrade from your 1100 sq place, unless you are purchasing a proper stand alone home. The square footage you mentioned is a nice size place out here, not the norm generally. Unless you are in one of those suburban areas, then maybe.

So, where to live given what I am reading from you:

My very first option if I were you, would be South Beach. Either Lincoln Road area or South Point area. Second would probably be downtown Miami, Third Coconut Grove (center grove) and last would be Downtown Coral Gables. The cool thing about south beach (well there are a few) is Art Basel which is one of the largest Art expos in the world you can get a idea of it here
link

Then there is the New World Symphony that is amazing inside, but outside they will display concerts that are going on inside for those who couldn't get/afford tickets. Its really cool! You can check that out here
link

Then there is the shopping at Lincoln Road on South Beach check that out
here I know the woman talking makes it sound like some really Bourgeoisie but its not. its really cool and laid back. they have a great movie theater too. You would also be very close to the ocean.

I don't know if you can tell but I really like South Beach lol. I knew someone from The Bronx who moved out here and they said to me once "what is the point of leaving NYC to come here if you are not going to live near the water and really live the life out here. Other wise, its just as well to go back home. I tend to agree with that.

I know you said you want a pool etc. but in South Florida having a stand alone suburban style home AND walk-ability is not really doable. There might be some place I don't know about, but generally speaking no. With the exception of Coconut Grove. You could possibly get a stand alone home and still be within walking distance of Center Grove, a super market and a few clothing boutiques and a GAP. However, Center Grove does come with some crime. I would liken it to being in Spanish Harlem, closer to the UES or being in that Fort Greene/Clinton Hills boarder area. Nothing to serious, but you just have to keep your wits about you.

Downtown Coral Gables has tons of apartments and condos and TONS of restaurants and shops. I am not sure where the grocery is over there though.

Brickell also has nightlife, a nice super market, a DECENT (i stress decent) elementary school, a train that you can get to some limited locations on etc. You can also find a unit over looking the Bay for a decent amount. The drawbacks from what I hear are that the place is VERY transient, no real neighborhood feel to it. One person I know said it was "super noisy" but he is a suburbanite so the noise factor is relative.

Downtown Miami, again more condos, shopping, restaurants, access to a train, close to everything driving and on foot. Downtown DOESN'T have a grocery, however I think they are building a wholefoods now, just north of one of the bridges. I believe that's what the sign said. If not, you can hop the train and go to brickell to shop.

One other place you might want to look is Midtown Miami, again condo living, has a nice park, shopping, but you will have to drive to get to the grocery. Mass transit is non existent outside of bus in that area. Also, the second Saturday of every month they have a HUGE art walk. I haven't gone in awhile but its really fun. Here is a video of one art walk event in Wynwood
link

You can buy a home in the Wynwood area (which is right across the street from midtown. I wouldn't but, hey its there if you want it. Another area is the design district which is just north of Midtown and they have stand alone homes, but not as much to walk too. They are also trying to develop the Design District area to be like a Miami Soho. Not sure how that will turn out, but they are trying.
Here is a video on the Midtown/Wynwood/Design District area, and yes the Design District is generally as empty/dead as you see in that video. I can't think of one time I have gone there and it was really packed.

They also have a bike tour, check that out
here

Oh and in Florida, no broker fee!

As for "pumping you up", I am going to be real with you. The ONLY reason I am still in Florida is because finding a job in NYC has been rather difficult. Other wise, I would have been on the next flight out. Do not get me wrong, Miami is NOT bad at all. If you get in a good area, you will find very nice people and a decent amount of stuff to do. But being a native NYer and being the opposite of you (my family is in NYC, not here) ,I would rather be there or close by.
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:03 PM
 
3 posts, read 7,330 times
Reputation: 19
I'm posting a little info specifically about Coconut Grove and our experiences as newbies. We moved to Miami three months ago from the San Francisco area and relocated to Coconut Grove. I love it here. My kids like the school here and it's been a good fit for us (one in a private pre-k school, the other in public school here which is surprisingly really good with a highly rated French program.) We wanted to be in an area with a high walk score because we don't like driving. We knew we did NOT want to be in a condo because we also have "spirited" children and a dog and we hate annoying condo rules. This has turned out to be the perfect spot because I honestly can't imagine living in any other area in Miami now that we've been here. We also have family here (on the husband's side). He's Cuban but also hasn't lived here in a while (actually--he grew up in Lakeland) and I'm racially mixed so it was super important for us to be in an area that was diverse (not just with Latinos but other nationalities too).

The Grove allows you easy access to a lot of cool stuff that's very family friendly. You always see lots of kids in restaurants here, there's lots of family friendly activities (like outdoor films at the Barnacle State Park), sailing for kiddos, music galore and awesome block parties. Home Depot here has a free build-a-craft workshop on Saturday mornings. The libraries has a great children's librarian and they always have nice activities. There's Kennedy Park for bike riding with the kids and playing soccer, there's a great little kiddie park near me geared toward the younger kiddos (Blanche Park) right next to a newly renovated, very clean dog park with an active community.

We also wanted to live in a part of Miami where people actually speak to each other or have a nice sense of community. We know from coming down for visits that people in Miami can be cold to strangers unless you're in their family--I found people to be much warmer in NYC where I used to live a while ago. I am relieved that folks are nice to each other here. For example, a lot of the kids on our block play in the street. Sometimes parents post orange cones at the ends of the block to warn crazy Miami drivers to slow down and the kiddos bike up and down the street together. You don't see that in a lot of other neighborhoods in Miami unless you're in a more suburban areas which from your post, doesn't sound like you want

We live on a very cool lot which I'll tell you about because sometimes real estate listings can be kind of funny. It was listed as a townhouse but it's actually a stand alone house. It's an extra large lot with two identical houses that are fenced in. We share the front yard but have a private backyard/deck for the kids and dog to run around. It's awesome. And our neighborhood is very cool where my audiophile husband can blare his loud speakers and I don't have to be so worried about the neighbors because I can hear their random drum circles across the street from time to time. But at the same time, people are respectful of late night sounds and I've only heard one really loud party but it was on a weekend night so whatever. The real estate prices in the "good parts" of the Grove are still pretty high which surprised us. The good spots go within a few days so work with someone who lives in whichever area you decide to go with and maybe has their ear to the ground a bit more than other realtors. We really liked our realtor who lives here in the Grove and knows the boundaries well, which areas might be sketchy, which streets have more traffic than others (Tigertail, 17th, 27th, etc). She also knows when things are about to move before others so she had everything ready for us before the place we got went onto the market--we did all this from out-of-state too so by the time we moved to FL, we could just have our moving trucks meet us directly at the house. You can send me a msg and I'll send you her contact info.

TIP: The maps with "good/bad" areas that people post on this forum helped us a lot to determine areas to look at but you could give and take a few streets here and there--have someone go look at the spots for you in the day and night.

More on driving: We have one car and utilize car2go when we need access to two cars and their company is primarily based around this area. The rest of time I bike the kids to school or walk (everything I need is in good biking/walking distance--including farmers market, Milam's, hardware store, library, etc). Coconut Grove is also a good place to bike to nice places like Key Biscayne.

It's good that you're working on your Spanish. I am not Latina but I do speak Spanish nearly fluently so it's made my experience here in Miami a good one. I keep telling friends I can see how it would be a very difficult place to live if you don't speak it. Even when I went to the dang Comcast office, I had to speak in Spanish! I could have probably have done in it in English but I can almost assure you that my order would have been F'd up because that lady could barely speak English.

Anyway...hope that helps. I remember surfing these forums for good places to live in Miami that were a bit urban, diverse, safe, bohemian, progressive, artsy, kid-friendly, walkable, etc. I think those were my keywords exactly. We looked at Miami Beach (mid-beach and SoFi) for a minute but after talking to lots of folks, we decided the Grove was a much nicer fit for us. There's a lot of old growth and shade here in the Grove too so I'm crossing my fingers that it helps block out some of the oppressive heat we'll be getting in the summer.
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:18 PM
 
Location: Lakes by the Bay, FL (for now)
984 posts, read 4,319,176 times
Reputation: 586
Go for the Miracle Mile area in Coral Gables, with your budget you'll be able to find something great and well located in that area. It's very safe, walkable - loads of shops, restaurants, and stuff right on your doorstep. On the downside the public transport in that area is just average, by Miami standards (which would be pretty shoddy by NYC standards), but it does have a City run Trolley transport that takes you through the neighborhood and to the Metrorail Station, plus there's bus lines that take you towards Brickell/Downtown and also towards some other areas.

Brickell Key (or Brickell near the bay) would be another option, which you'll rely much less on private transportation and you'll have loads of things on your doorstep as well, it's safe (not as much as the Gables though) and there's the Metromover, Metrorail, the Trolley run by the City, plus the regular bus lines.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:02 PM
 
17 posts, read 170,558 times
Reputation: 38
Wild Style, can I ask your opinion on raising children in south beach?
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:29 PM
 
Location: Weston, FL
4,346 posts, read 7,834,659 times
Reputation: 1560
Quote:
Originally Posted by gajimaru View Post
I'm posting a little info specifically about Coconut Grove and our experiences as newbies. We moved to Miami three months ago from the San Francisco area and relocated to Coconut Grove. I love it here. My kids like the school here and it's been a good fit for us (one in a private pre-k school, the other in public school here which is surprisingly really good with a highly rated French program.) We wanted to be in an area with a high walk score because we don't like driving. We knew we did NOT want to be in a condo because we also have "spirited" children and a dog and we hate annoying condo rules. This has turned out to be the perfect spot because I honestly can't imagine living in any other area in Miami now that we've been here. We also have family here (on the husband's side). He's Cuban but also hasn't lived here in a while (actually--he grew up in Lakeland) and I'm racially mixed so it was super important for us to be in an area that was diverse (not just with Latinos but other nationalities too).

The Grove allows you easy access to a lot of cool stuff that's very family friendly. You always see lots of kids in restaurants here, there's lots of family friendly activities (like outdoor films at the Barnacle State Park), sailing for kiddos, music galore and awesome block parties. Home Depot here has a free build-a-craft workshop on Saturday mornings. The libraries has a great children's librarian and they always have nice activities. There's Kennedy Park for bike riding with the kids and playing soccer, there's a great little kiddie park near me geared toward the younger kiddos (Blanche Park) right next to a newly renovated, very clean dog park with an active community.

We also wanted to live in a part of Miami where people actually speak to each other or have a nice sense of community. We know from coming down for visits that people in Miami can be cold to strangers unless you're in their family--I found people to be much warmer in NYC where I used to live a while ago. I am relieved that folks are nice to each other here. For example, a lot of the kids on our block play in the street. Sometimes parents post orange cones at the ends of the block to warn crazy Miami drivers to slow down and the kiddos bike up and down the street together. You don't see that in a lot of other neighborhoods in Miami unless you're in a more suburban areas which from your post, doesn't sound like you want

We live on a very cool lot which I'll tell you about because sometimes real estate listings can be kind of funny. It was listed as a townhouse but it's actually a stand alone house. It's an extra large lot with two identical houses that are fenced in. We share the front yard but have a private backyard/deck for the kids and dog to run around. It's awesome. And our neighborhood is very cool where my audiophile husband can blare his loud speakers and I don't have to be so worried about the neighbors because I can hear their random drum circles across the street from time to time. But at the same time, people are respectful of late night sounds and I've only heard one really loud party but it was on a weekend night so whatever. The real estate prices in the "good parts" of the Grove are still pretty high which surprised us. The good spots go within a few days so work with someone who lives in whichever area you decide to go with and maybe has their ear to the ground a bit more than other realtors. We really liked our realtor who lives here in the Grove and knows the boundaries well, which areas might be sketchy, which streets have more traffic than others (Tigertail, 17th, 27th, etc). She also knows when things are about to move before others so she had everything ready for us before the place we got went onto the market--we did all this from out-of-state too so by the time we moved to FL, we could just have our moving trucks meet us directly at the house. You can send me a msg and I'll send you her contact info.

TIP: The maps with "good/bad" areas that people post on this forum helped us a lot to determine areas to look at but you could give and take a few streets here and there--have someone go look at the spots for you in the day and night.

More on driving: We have one car and utilize car2go when we need access to two cars and their company is primarily based around this area. The rest of time I bike the kids to school or walk (everything I need is in good biking/walking distance--including farmers market, Milam's, hardware store, library, etc). Coconut Grove is also a good place to bike to nice places like Key Biscayne.

It's good that you're working on your Spanish. I am not Latina but I do speak Spanish nearly fluently so it's made my experience here in Miami a good one. I keep telling friends I can see how it would be a very difficult place to live if you don't speak it. Even when I went to the dang Comcast office, I had to speak in Spanish! I could have probably have done in it in English but I can almost assure you that my order would have been F'd up because that lady could barely speak English.

Anyway...hope that helps. I remember surfing these forums for good places to live in Miami that were a bit urban, diverse, safe, bohemian, progressive, artsy, kid-friendly, walkable, etc. I think those were my keywords exactly. We looked at Miami Beach (mid-beach and SoFi) for a minute but after talking to lots of folks, we decided the Grove was a much nicer fit for us. There's a lot of old growth and shade here in the Grove too so I'm crossing my fingers that it helps block out some of the oppressive heat we'll be getting in the summer.


What an awesome write-up! Was your "condo" price average or higher than average?
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:15 PM
 
3 posts, read 7,330 times
Reputation: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruski View Post
What an awesome write-up! Was your "condo" price average or higher than average?
Thank you--I added a bit more than I probably should have but thought it might be helpful for other forum surfers looking at the Grove. Our place was actually well below average. We were expecting to come into this market and pay between $2,500-$2700/month to rent a detached home. We were really floored by the prices in the Grove. Our realtor told us that if we wanted to realistically get into a home in the zones we wanted, we had to raise our budget to over $3200/month. So glad we held out though because the home we are renting is well below this range and even slightly below our original budget. There was another nice, detached home on Tigertail that we were considering that was in the low $2000's and a really beautiful detached home in the South Grove that we saw on the UM housing page that was also priced well below average that could have easily rented for $4,000/mo in this market -- so there are good deals scattered about.
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