Glacier National Park or Grand Tetons/Yellowstone

[Idunn]

For backpacking, I'd choose Glacier NP. For short hikes and general sightseeing, Yellowstone NP and Grand Teton NP.

These two options are far enough removed from each other—roughly a day's drive, one way—that in a relatively short trip it would make most sense to choose either Glacier or Yellowstone and its close neighbor Grand Teton.

While all are wilderness destinations, it is probably easier to encounter bears in Glacier. With proper precautions, such as the storing of food, this statically is a minor risk. But still there; for anyone truly concerned it would be advisable never to venture much farther than the parking lot in any of these national parks. The prevalence of wildlife and large predators being one of the principle ideas. One will see and have less access to wildlife in the more popular and heavily trafficked venues. From this standpoint Yellowstone/Grand Teton would more easily provide a glimpse of wilderness without exactly being in it.

One could get out and beyond in any of these national parks, if seeking true wilderness. As said, Glacier could provide a wealth of opportunities for this. If hesitant, all these parks offer the option of campsites with facilities and your auto but a few feet away. More in the way of crowds, too, but that comes with the territory. If wishing to go more upscale, they also offer lovely park lodges. In both cases, particular in high season, prior reservations are recommended. If heading out into the woods, save possibly some of the more popular camp spots, you can more or less just show up. A backcountry camping permit will probably be required for a relatively low fee.

While company can be nice on occasion, camping on one's own can be pleasant. If some question in this then do some research in advance, and possibly plan on camping close in. While one could go way out, it is not necessary to be well within the woods and enjoy as much. Some campsites can be but short hikes from the trailhead and close enough to return to one's auto in the middle of the night if it seems overwhelming in the moment. Despite some of the discomforts, true camping can be rewarding and a fond memory forever more. It is worth considering and preparing for if at all interested. As mentioned elsewhere, rangers at these parks can offer much helpful advice in this regard.

Aside from possible backpacking, another reason to visit Glacier would be for no more than the experience of driving across this park on its notable and ever so scenic 'Going-to-the-Sun' road. A fantastic drive. But all these parks are spectacular, with Yellowstone of course a wealth of geothermal features, Grand Teton a postcard. You can't go wrong either way. But best results achieved if some notion in advance of what you are truly seeking. If interested in short but quite beautiful hikes, versus backpacking, then easily had—and you'll save yourself the bother of planning for that never really intended.

In the end, a comfortable lodge room is best, if that desired. And if indeed backpacking—then do it.

[Galactastica]

I would recommend Yellowstone/Tetons for your trip, simply because you are a first time backpacker and it's more accessible with less danger.

I have been backpacking for 10 years and I'm an outdoor trainer and I would never, ever, ever recommend someone to go backpacking on that long of a trip in Glacier when it's their first time. It's simply a bad idea in general. I studied and was hesitant backpacking just last August in Glacier for the first time. Personally, I liked Glacier overall more than the other two more southern parks, but you will NOT go wrong visiting either. They all some of the most impressive in the entire country and will blow your socks off.

If you love your experience, it will just fuel you to go back to whichever you miss later on.
Professionally and personally though, I would recommend Yellowstone/Tetons for your first backpacking experience, as Glacier is just more of an undertaking with more experience needed. Although you've already debunked it, just for others who may read this, I would never in a million years go backpacking in either of these places alone. I would be hard pressed to hike alone-the only way I would do it is if I was a park employee and I had to.

Whichever you choose, please do your research and the needed preperations to keep yourself, your backpacking group and the area safe. Have permits, the correct equiptment and esspecially be bear aware so you are not putting yourself or the bears in harms way.

Let us know what you decide!

[Cuthbert J Twillie]

There are parts of GTNP that are said to be the wildest country in the lower 48.
Wildlife sightings can be better in GTNP than either of the other two.
I'm not sure Glacier has anything like the Lamar Valley.

As far as backpacking goes try an overnight before you go multiple days.
You may want to try an overnight in familiar surroundings (where you live).
Find out how much fuel you are going to have to pack.
There's a lot to learn and a large NP may not be the place to learn on your own.

These parks may have roads but if you get into the back country you are in wilderness and all that implies.
Be safe, no one wants to win a Darwin award.

[WyoNewk]

All three are terrific parks that I've visited often. I side with those recommending Yellowstone for the first time. It usually has more wildlife visible from the roads and is a little less primitive. By all means also visit GTNP too. I strongly disagree that GTNP is the best for wildlife sightings. That distinction must go to Yellowstone, and that's also where the Lamar Valley is. I've seen more moose in GTNP, but for bison, bear, elk and other smaller species, Yellowstone takes it. Another great one for wildlife is the wildlife loop in Custer State Park in the S.D. Blackhills. Mile for mile, wildlife density and variety is probably better there than at any of the big three mentioned. It might also be a better place for the beginning hiker, but while a pretty area, it can't match the others for scenic splendor. That's a toss-up between GTNP and Glacier.

As an aside, for scenic beauty from the road, the Beartooth Highway between Red Lodge, MT and Yellowstone's NE gate is about as good as it gets.

I'd also recommend the Bighorns for hiking. They've got everything a backpacker could ask for minus grizzlies. But still do it with caution. You can get lost there just as easily, and I've seen snow storms in the Bighorns every month of the year.

[Enders-1]

Glacier is the most scenic park in the lower 48. It does everything very, very well. Most of the campgrounds in Glacier are on incredible lakes.

Glacier has water....everywhere. Glacier is far more diverse because of Pacific influences on the western divide. You start running into cedar rainforests and a broader range of animals, such as white-tailed deer mixed in with the typical muley's of Yellowstone/Teton. G

2,000 foot waterfalls are common in Glacier.

now, that's not to say Grand Teton is somehow "bad". In fact, I'd put it right behind Glacier. But it's not as diverse, nor as cinematic. Yellowstone is a great park, but way, way too many people visit it. I prefer camping the national forests that surround Yellowstone. No one really does, and I often have the place to myself.

For wildlife, I'll also take Glacier. It's a "vertical" wildlife park. A couple years back I spotted eight moose, an elk, a bald eagle, a golden eagle, a grizzly family, mountain goats, and a bighorn. This was from one spot in a five minute span.

Teton and Glacier are the best place to see moose in the lower 48. NE Yellowstone is right behind. For outright scenery, Glacier is the king. Every view is great in that park. Every one.

For river fishing, Yellowstone is king (and the surrounding national forests). For lake fishing, I prefer Glacier. Glacier does have incredible rivers, but they are often colder and a bit sterile, meaning fish are smaller and less numerous. That said, the Glacier ecosystem does in fact have wilder rivers than the Yellowstone ecosystem. The South Fork and Middle Fork of the Flathead River being the main example.

It's hard to choose between both places. I spend a lot of time in the national forests north of Yellowstone, then pop down to Teton for a few days. They are all great, great destinations. But Glacier is, and always will be the king in the lower 48.

[Vegabern]

In my opinion, it goes

1a. Glacier National Park
1b. Grand Teton National Park
3. Yellowstone National Park

Some people will say Yellowstone is better for wildlife but I disagree. I've seen more diverse wildlife every time I go to Glacier. You'll see plenty of buffalo and elk in Yellowstone but that's about it. You may see some deer, eagles antelope and such but you can see all of those most places in Montana. I've seen more bear in Glacier along with bighorn sheep, moose and mountain goat.

I prefer landscapes to wildlife though and between Glacier and Yellowstone, there's no comparison. Teton rivals Glacier but it's not quite there.

[Threerun]

Our family prefers Glacier. Two years ago we saw moose, big horns, mountain goats, grizzly (from a distance), elk, deer, golden eagles, pica, fox, coyotes.. Even a few stray hippies thrown in for good measure. Then you add in unreal scenery, gorgeous water, cool nights.. Heaven.

Last year my son and I did about 12 miles from the Garden Wall to the chalet and down the other side. The wildflowers were stunning and the view from the chalet is incredible.

Click on my pics and you'll see one of my daughter and a goat right behind her at Glacier..

[Vegabern]

Hey Threerun,

I just viewed your photos, your pirate dog looks like he's sailing the seas at The Gates. Maybe we'll see you there. We live in the North Valley and take our boat up there a few times a year. Gorgeous river trip.

[Threerun]

Originally Posted by Vegabern

Hey Threerun,

I just viewed your photos, your pirate dog looks like he's sailing the seas at The Gates. Maybe we'll see you there. We live in the North Valley and take our boat up there a few times a year. Gorgeous river trip.

It is up at the Gates. We live in North Valley as well. Look for a boat with 2 adults, 2 kids, the one-eyed Basenji and a rambuncious German Short Hair.

[Vegabern]

If it wasn't for the one-eyed dog, I'd swear you were my husband posting. We will also be out with two kids, two adults, a short-hair pointer but with a black lab puppy.