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This is well in excess of the maximum possible hardness of water (concentrated acid, on the other hand)..
In any likelihood you have 120 mg/L, which is a "moderately hard" water. You can do what 95% of people do and that is nothing. Is there any particular reason you need softened water? Living with hard water is part of most people's New Mexico experience.
And I have to ask, what happens to the solids when the go to a septic system? Do the salts stay in suspension and dissapate through the perc bed, or do they precipitate and stay in the holding tank?
I don't know. But have lived with septics in at least three houses in three states and solids build up in the septic tanks, then problems begin. And all septic systems (if they are used) will eventually need to be pumped out, and it is better sooner, than later....
If it were me, I would install a separate holding tank to contain the backflush water from the softener. Then disposal of the brine would be facilitated independently of the septic system.
Thanks all for your great responses, really appreciate your help! Yes, an RO on the drinking water works quite well, and plan to use a small unit for the refrigerator. And yes, I stand corrected on the concentration levels, I had my units screwed up! (Too used to thinking in metric units I guess!) Thanks
I like the idea of a separate holding tank for the backflush water, but I wonder if environmental regs would allow this. Would be nice if there was a good use for the spent brine, but since we don't want to raise sea shrimps, I guess a non-starter there. I suspect the best solution would be to regularly pumps the holding tank-every 2-3 years is what we've typically done when we lived in the mid west.
We've also had some experience that certain brands of fixtures hold up better to hard water. Specifically, we've heard that Delta fixtures tend to fail fairly quickly. Any thoughts? Also, for underground water lines to a barn (about 300'), are brass fittings the best, or is stainless a better choice? Assume schedule 80 PVC polyethelene pipe is the best, or would PEX tubing be a better option? Am somewhat concerned about rodents munching on the tubing, but hopefully the horses tromping around will keep the little buggers away. On our old place, we had a 6' frost line, so certainly looking forward to digging a more reasonable trench this time!
I like the idea of a backwash holding tank. When it gets full just pump the brine to a cheap kiddie pool and let it evaporate. Then the resulting salt can be molded into a salt lick for the livestock.
BTW - the barn water supply does not need to be treated. I suggest using PVC pipe, valves and fittings for the barn water supply. Protect the pipes in the barn with some kind of chew proof shield like galvanized iron stove pipe.
Sounds like you are really developing a nice set up. Keep us posted. A picture or two would be nice.
...or would PEX tubing be a better option? Am somewhat concerned about rodents munching on the tubing, but hopefully the horses tromping around will keep the little buggers away.
Many houses built in the area have been using PEX for supply lines. With a 3 ft deep trench to protect from freezing, I don't think either rodents or animal hooves are going to be a problem. The advantage of the tubing is that it can be purchased in 100 ft continuous rolls and this encourages routings that would otherwise be impractical using more expensive copper, etc.
Quote:
U.S.Code Acceptance
PEX piping is approved in all the major building codes, but has not received local code acceptance in some areas of the country. PEX tubing must comply with ASTM F876, “Specification for Cross-Linked Polyethylene (PEX) Tubing,” and ASTM F877, "Specification for Cross-linked Polyethylene (PEX) Plastic Hot and Cold Water Distribution Systems." Section P2903.8 of the 2003 International Residential Code (IRC) covers Parallel Water-Distribution System Manifolds, and includes sizing, valves, distribution lines, and support. Section P2904 covers materials, joints, and connections.
Addendum - I meant a continous roll of PVC or PEX. Also protect the pipe from rocks with a sand cover and put a strip of warning tape in the trench about 1 ft down. You don't want a universal pipe locator (hydraulic back hoe) finding your pipe.
One time I saw a backhoe, this was before "Dig Safe", reach under a big storm sewer that was being replaced and snag the hidden 12" water supply pipe for a major portion of a city. What a mess.
You don't want a universal pipe locator (hydraulic back hoe) finding your pipe.
Aside from having to re-dig it, repair is a snap with the PEX. PVC uses "glued" fittings, which I feel are less durable in the long run than the bands/clamps used with PEX.
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