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I think this is a great idea but first will someone teach me how to upload video to YouTube? I'm clueless.
Not so much a tutorial but more like a tip. When photographing equestrian try can catch the near front leg reaching for the next step. It shows movement. Keep the action so that there is room for the subject to proceed. Don't let the subject look like it is going off stage. Riders need some where to go. Example:
I think that is a wonderful idea! I am a beginner and struggle to grasp a lot of the principles. Mathjak, I read your histogram posts...need to read them a few ore times so it makes sense and sinks in.
If shooting the Hunter Jump get down low and time it so that you get the front feed coming over the rail. Use spot focus with the exposure linked to the spot. Example
For special effects use a wide angle lens close to the subject to make it look larger than life. If you dare. This is a rodeo bull that is nowhere near taller than the fence in the background. I've been taught to keep fences in the background. Never in the foreground. Don't fenced people out.
These are all excellent tips, Nomadicus! I have a feeling re the bull photo that some of us would just want to take the shot and get the heck out of that field in a hurry! LOL
These are all excellent tips, Nomadicus! I have a feeling re the bull photo that some of us would just want to take the shot and get the heck out of that field in a hurry! LOL
He wasn't bad in the pasture. He also knew when his 8 seconds up and would walk back to the return gate. I photographed the whole lot of the bulls that day. I don't thing the manager thought I'd get off of the golf cart to get the shots but fooled him. Those bulls were just chilling waiting on Saturday night to show off.
Now this is a wide angle shot that I don't know what I was thinking. My wife was watching expecting to be a widow within minutes. Not sure after these years but think it was taken using a 17-40 lens.
For landscape and architectural shots, use of hyperfocal distance can be extremely useful. The idea is simple. If you have a smart phone or access to a computer, the best approach may be to download an app that will do the math for you (I use iDOF Calc). You'd need:
1- Focal length of the lens (and in case of zoom, the focal length you have selected)
2- Aperture
The idea is to maximize the depth of field and in this case to infinity, as in having everything within the frame in focus. Since wide angle lenses are often used for landscape, I will assume a 24mm prime lens, set with aperture value of f/8. We will also assume the camera to be equipped with an APS-C size sensor.
Using either calculations or an app, the hyperfocal distance for the focal length (24mm) and aperture (f/8) computes to 3.60m (about 12 ft). This means that if focus is set at at least 12 ft, everything beyond 12 ft will be in focus and half the distance (6 ft) to the point of focus will also be in focus. So, the Depth of Field will extend from about 6 ft in front to infinity.
If math isn't possible, and app not accessible, an alternative approach but inaccurate method is to use a rule of thirds (focusing at something about a third of the distance out and then re-composing).
And if your camera has DOF Preview button, it never hurts to use it, if you're shooting at an aperture less than the maximum. That button can be used when playing with hyperfocal distance.
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This is a rodeo bull that is nowhere near taller than the fence in the background. I've been taught to keep fences in the background. Never in the foreground. Don't fenced people out.
Those bulls were just chilling waiting on Saturday night to show off.
Hyperfocal Distance
