Anyone Install A Metal Roof? (insurance, big house, tile)

[DaGoose]

I will probably need to re-roof in the next 3 to 5 years (I know, I'm trying to plan ahead). I have seen discussions about how the sun and heat will shorten the life of roofs in Florida. But I wonder if anyone has installed these metal roofs that supposedly last a lifetime and if they've had any problems with them. How about wind resistance?

[Big House]

I have a metal roof on my house. There are a lot of factors in recommending a metal roof, and how long it will last.
You need to understand the manufacture's product information and recommendations. Thickness of material, type of material, and the type of finish. What is it to be fastened to - the substrate has to be fastened well and inspected to make sure that it is the right type, thickness, span rating, and is itself fastened properly prior to installing the underlayment (I recommend two layers of overlapped (roof lapped 15# felt - at a minimum, again check manufactures recommendations they may require something different like 30# underlayment). Then the fasting and gasket materials need to be reviewed to see that they are proper, at spacings, thicknesses, lengths, and pull out strength at the minimum per the wind zone area of your house. Ask an architect to review all of this, and check that he has verified all of theses items during his review.

In addition to this, at all building jumps (where a vertical surface rises, if applicable) gets a layer of ice and water-shield under any step flashing or vertical roofing) run this up at least 18" - this will help seal your house from any wind driven rain against these surfaces. Also add a row of ice and water-shield along all of the eaves, and in any roof valleys you may have.

Hopefully you have no vertical surfaces or gable ends. Hip roofs in Florida are best.

This advice works for any type of roofing material you may choose.

Metal roofs have long warrantees. They need to be regularly inspected to make sure that all the fasteners are securely intact - I just look at mine every six months to see if there is any significant rusting issue (which there shouldn't), or any pull out issues because of all the storms we get here. This is impossible to do with tile roofs. Metal roofs allow wind to blow smoothly over them, where as during major storms here tile roofs blew apart, and were major projectiles during Hurricane Charlie. Again, it is very difficult to see the fastener spacing was done properly during installation (or if issues become apparent before a major issue after). Some metal roofs have concealed fasteners, but many don't. Mine doesn't, and it makes it easy for me to verify that my roof is in good shape. The key to a long lasting roof, once it is fastened properly is to ensure that all the aforementioned substrate roof work is well done, and properly fastened. Don't forget to go up in the attic periodically and check the substrate underneath for any signs of leaking as well.

Good Luck - hope this give some incite. Don't be cheap on the underlayment or ice and water-shield - they are the significant component and key to a long lasting waterproof application.

[ArmyChief]

Yea..lord knows we need ICE protection here

[fiege1224]

My metal roof is 20 years old other than a little fading(red) it is still perfect. I used rubber mounted screws so I don't have any problems. It was real cheap back then when no one used metal much for roofs. I hear it has gone up a lot now like everything else.

[achildofthesky]

Nothing like a rain on a metal roof for getting a good sleep...

Be safe
Patty

[Big House]

Originally Posted by ArmyChief

Yea..lord knows we need ICE protection here

Ice and water-shield is the name for a self adhering waterproof membrane, and is an excellent waterproofing product - ice or not. In the north though it is used to prevent ice damming along the eaves of the roofs, where temperature variations change quickly and dramatically causing separation along the roof edges especially at the gutters. Down here it is just a good product for waterproofing the areas I mentioned, and is still referred to by that name.

Lord knows I wouldn't wish ICE on anyone, but protection (for many things is still to be encouraged.

[achildofthesky]

I would go with a peel and stick on waterproof membrane product as it will help keep penetrations from fasteners, be they nails, self tapping screws, mechanical fasteners, sealed from leaking through sheathing. A heavy hot mop of bitumen/tar both for sealing and adhesion would work well too, perhaps at a lower price point (not quite sure as it may require a hot slop tank if that type is used instead of a trowel on asphaltic type that comes in buckets)

Be safe
Patty

[Big House]

Originally Posted by achildofthesky

I would go with a peel and stick on waterproof membrane product as it will help keep penetrations from fasteners, be they nails, self tapping screws, mechanical fasteners, sealed from leaking through sheathing. A heavy hot mop of bitumen/tar both for sealing and adhesion would work well too, perhaps at a lower price point (not quite sure as it may require a hot slop tank if that type is used instead of a trowel on asphaltic type that comes in buckets)

Be safe
Patty

Ice and Water-shield is a peel and stick "self-ahearing" waterproof flashing membrane. So, I agree with Patty!!

[sware2cod]

Originally Posted by Big House

Some metal roofs have concealed fasteners, but many don't. .

Metal roof with exposed fasteners is called: 5 V Crimp. You can see what appears to be small black dots all over the roof. These are the fasters that are exposed.

Metal roof without exposed fasters is called: Standing Seam. Standing seam is more costly than 5 V Crimp. You should get a quote for each to compare. Most roofing companies do both 5 V Crimp and Standing Seam.

Typically in florida the metal material is the gray unpainted product called: Galvalume. It appears more shiny/silver the first year then loses most of the mirror like shine.

You can get a metal roof with a painted surface. But then there are issues of the paint eventually peeling or scratching or fading. You don't have any paint with Galvalume though it looks like a light gray.

Link: 5V Crimp vs Asphalt Shingle | Metal Roofs in warm/salty climates | Metal Roofing Forum

Insurance is cheaper with most metal roofs...wind insurance as well as fire insurance.

Pasted from this web site: How to Choose Roofing Material by Tommy Gambon | Living Space 360
"The disadvantage of the 5V-Crimp style roof is that the neoprene washers can shrink and dry out over time, causing a leak. There’s also the fact that you have a zillion holes in your new roof from all the attaching screws.

A better choice if you’re considering a metal roof is the “Standing Seam” roof style.The Standing Seam roof uses either a one foot or two foot wide panel with a 90 degree bend along each edge. On this type of roof the panels are secured to the roof by small metal clips, that hold down the edges. As each panel is laid in place it covers the clip from the previous panel, no holes or screws exposed. A U-shaped metal “Batten” is driven over the panel edges and metal clips to complete the installation. This results in a much cleaner looking installation, than the 5V-Crimp roof. "

[MikeM8560]

Originally Posted by achildofthesky

Nothing like a rain on a metal roof for getting a good sleep...

Be safe
Patty

I don't notice it being any louder then a normal roof