Muscle Cars in Punta Gorda? (food, place, road)

[HarborRat]

Originally Posted by alkaleka

It has a 180 thermostat in it now and runs about 200-210.

Sounds perfect, but how hot does it get in traffic?

Originally Posted by alkaleka

I have a 160 thermostat sitting on my back seat, planned on installing it this spring.

Don't band-aid it.

Originally Posted by alkaleka

I replaced the stock fan with an 18" 6-blade steel fan with 1" spacer on a long neck water pump.

Is there a shroud? The shroud is a lot more important in traffic than most people think. Quality/pitch of this aftermarket fan? How far is it from the radiator? Assuming the spacer was added instead of the fan clutch?...Which would mean it must be a flex-fan (otherwise the solid blades would bend and cut through the radiator at higher rpms).

Originally Posted by alkaleka

Would changing the cam to a milder, less-rough idle help?

It would be a whole lot easier to fix the cooling problem .

[FlaNewbie2017]

Originally Posted by alkaleka

Hubby says: "Thanks for the info. I had a new stock radiator installed when the engine was rebuilt in 1995. Engine was bored .030 over. I put about 400 miles a year on the car now. It has a 180 thermostat in it now and runs about 200-210. I have a 160 thermostat sitting on my back seat, planned on installing it this spring. I replaced the stock fan with an 18" 6-blade steel fan with 1" spacer on a long neck water pump. I'm no mechanic, so moving to Florida is making me nervous. Would changing the cam to a milder, less-rough idle help? I have automatic transmission with TCI torque converter, I think with 3200 stall."

Don't change the cam. That is makes them sound like a muscle car. A 3200 stall converter will create a lot of heat. If your running the cooling lines back to the radiator, that sure is not helping your heat problem.

Being a car guy you will love it down here.

[426HemiCA]

Originally Posted by FlaNewbie2017

Don't change the cam. That is makes them sound like a muscle car. A 3200 stall converter will create a lot of heat. If your running the cooling lines back to the radiator, that sure is not helping your heat problem.

Being a car guy you will love it down here.

One recommendation is a transmission cooler instead of using the radiator to cool it, better for the transmission in the heat. You may want to play with the timing a bit to make sure you have the best tune/set up, even with the cam you should be able to run it at a good temp, unless you have something really radical in there. I agree with getting a shroud on it, very important addition.

[HarborRat]

Routing the trans lines through the radiator is pretty important to keep the trans temps consistent (not too hot, not too cold). A secondary trans cooler is always a plus, but it should be in series with the rad for the above reason. I guess a stand-alone cooler would work fine if it had a fan and was thermostatically controlled. Either way, the trans shouldn't (won't) be overheating the engine at near idle in traffic. <same with the stall speed.

The timing is a bit tricky with a hot cam. If it still has a distributor with vacuum and mechanical advance, the loopy idle (and low vacuum) can make the weights advance too early or flop back and forth. I usually just swapped to an electronic distributor. With either type, retarding the timing by half a degree or so usually lowers idle temp...IF you can't do it any other way.

[FlaNewbie2017]

Originally Posted by HarborRat

Routing the trans lines through the radiator is pretty important to keep the trans temps consistent (not too hot, not too cold).

I doubt that too cold is a problem with a car down here that has a 3200 stall converter. Why is it important to keep trans temp consistent unless your bracket racing?

[HarborRat]

Originally Posted by FlaNewbie2017

I doubt that too cold is a problem with a car down here that has a 3200 stall converter. Why is it important to keep trans temp consistent unless your bracket racing?

No, he certainly won't have the too cold problem with that trans down here , but too hot may be a problem. Consistent temp is good for transmissions for the same reasons it's good for engines- tolerances change with temp swings (valve bodies, seals, pistons). Without the liquid to liquid cooler (the rad) you could see rapid swings from 120 to 240 degrees or more...that can't be good. Also, on newer electronically controlled transmissions if the temp drops too low shift points can change and the TC won't be allowed to lock.

[alkaleka]

Thanks again to everyone who answered me back about engine temp. My car has a fan shroud and the distributor is a stock unit, but the points and condenser have been replaced with a electronic unit.

A couple of other questions: Does anyone have a recommendation for mechanics in the area who work on cars like mine? Has anyone used coolant additives such as Ice or Water Wetter and if so, how do they work out for you?

[426HemiCA]

Originally Posted by HarborRat

Routing the trans lines through the radiator is pretty important to keep the trans temps consistent (not too hot, not too cold). A secondary trans cooler is always a plus, but it should be in series with the rad for the above reason. I guess a stand-alone cooler would work fine if it had a fan and was thermostatically controlled. Either way, the trans shouldn't (won't) be overheating the engine at near idle in traffic. <same with the stall speed.

The timing is a bit tricky with a hot cam. If it still has a distributor with vacuum and mechanical advance, the loopy idle (and low vacuum) can make the weights advance too early or flop back and forth. I usually just swapped to an electronic distributor. With either type, retarding the timing by half a degree or so usually lowers idle temp...IF you can't do it any other way.

I agree and my response wasnt worded well I always run the trans cooler routed in series with the radiator, also meant to protect the transmission, not necessary help with engine cooling.

[426HemiCA]

Originally Posted by alkaleka

Thanks again to everyone who answered me back about engine temp. My car has a fan shroud and the distributor is a stock unit, but the points and condenser have been replaced with a electronic unit.

A couple of other questions: Does anyone have a recommendation for mechanics in the area who work on cars like mine? Has anyone used coolant additives such as Ice or Water Wetter and if so, how do they work out for you?

Sounds like you are running a Petronix unit, I've had good luck with those. I know a good muscle car guy in Daytona, but nothing In your immediate area. Go to a few cruise ins and talk to locals or join a reputable car club I the area, car guys are usually a close knit group that help each other out.

If you want a nice drive sometime, New Smyrna Beach has a fun cruise, its one Saturday a month on Canal Street, usually a nice turnout.

[Corerius]

I just happened to see this post, but don't know anything about Florida.

I've driven LS6 Chevelles in Phoenix and never had a problem. My temptation is to go utterly factory stock on fans,shrouds, etc. and to buy a high quality radiator that has the OEM layout. I can't see any point in aftermarket pixie dust. Head gaskets fine? I assume there isn't a clutch fan (which can fool you). Cap not leaking? Bottom radiator hose holding it's shape?