Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Whatever you do, DO NOT settle for a 6mil thickness vapor barrier. Its minimum code "home depot" grade garbage that is rated to be replaced every 8 years, you will get tears in it pretty much any time someone walks around in your crawl, rapidly depleting its effectiveness. Demand something like 12mil nylon fiber reinforced if you want any kind of durability out of it. A good crawlspace company wont install 6mil. The better grade materials do cost a little more but its worth it.
We had no vapor barrier. Our home was build in 2000 over red clay. We purchased 6mil from Lowes and put under the house. We also had "some" mold clinging to the joists. Went under the house with a vinegar solution and mold is gone. No more issues since. Sounds like you have a much bigger issue and to be honest if they are not willing to put in a vapor barrier, I think I'd question their intentions and reliability of taking care of the bigger issue.
We had no vapor barrier. Our home was build in 2000 over red clay. We purchased 6mil from Lowes and put under the house. We also had "some" mold clinging to the joists. Went under the house with a vinegar solution and mold is gone. No more issues since. Sounds like you have a much bigger issue and to be honest if they are not willing to put in a vapor barrier, I think I'd question their intentions and reliability of taking care of the bigger issue.
Hi ihavealotofquestions,
The bigger issue being the water intrusion in the crawlspace?
The bigger issue being the water intrusion in the crawlspace?
While the water intrusion is an issue, that can be fixed. I would be more concerned with the fact of properly taking care of the decay and fungal growth. If they are not willing to invest a minimal amount of money and put in a passing vapor barrier to satisfy the buyer, I would wonder how they are taking care to really remove all the decay already there and replace the proper support so you don't have issues down the road. If I were selling my home, I'd make sure I did everything to make sure the sale went through and I don't think asking for a vapor barrier is unreasonable.
Did they simply build houses better and pay more attention to grading in the years before 2001? I have had a Raleigh area 1920's house on piers and never was there any indication of a mold problem.
Did they simply build houses better and pay more attention to grading in the years before 2001? I have had a Raleigh area 1920's house on piers and never was there any indication of a mold problem.
The higher the crawlspace, the less likelihood of mold. Air volume and circulation help.
Most houses that are very low will have some mold.
Insulating floors and cutting down air circulation around the framing helps create an environment that encourages mold growth.
I have been under houses of all ages that are moldy and not moldy.
My crawlspace is almost 5' high at the hatch, and goes down to 18" at the opposite corner.
No mold near the hatch, and recurrence of mold near the opposite corner where air movement is stifled.
The "code" is hardly relevant in negotiation, for either party.
Buyer can ask for anything. Seller can refuse to do anything.
And, in a sellers' market, the "code" gives the buyer no leverage at all.
$9.00 for a 6 pack of Sweet Josie, $60-$80 for a roll of 6 mill plastic, a Saturday afternoon with George Thorogood under the house, et voila! A functional Ground Vapor Barrier!
You will also need a bottle of bourbon and a bottle of scotch so add another few bucks into the budget.
Are you saying that Johnston county was one of the late adopting areas and that the vapor barrier was not in the building code for homes there? The home we are buying is in Johnston county. Just need to confirm. If this is the case then the seller was correct and I dont know if they will be willing to foot the bill for the vapor barrier. I dont know if its reasonable to think they would also want to do anything about the water intrusion issue. They have agreed to repair/replace the subfloor, back door, etc, but it really doesnt make any sense to make the repairs and not address the source of the damage and this will only reoccur.
What are your thoughts/recommendations. Thanks!
I would get two estimates of having all of these issues repaired. Start first with the water intrusion problem; maybe a sump pump or French drains would solve that. Get quotes from good contractors for the other subfloor etc. problems and have the house treated for mold.
Deduct the total of all that from the final sale price and get the seller out of the equation. That way you can use your own contractors and know it's done right.
If the seller won't agree, I'd walk away from the deal.
Did they simply build houses better and pay more attention to grading in the years before 2001? I have had a Raleigh area 1920's house on piers and never was there any indication of a mold problem.
No, it's just that the house leaked air so quickly and had so little insulation that mold wouldn't take hold.
Aside from a few late adopting areas in the sandier regions of the triangle (Johnston County), it was required to have at least 80% coverage on the ground in 2001, now it is 100%. Under 60% relative humidity is the goal, and under 50% if possible. Anything over 60% and mold will grow. The likely cause is humid air enters the vents, condenses on the cool surfaces, and the naturally occurring mold spores grow. Rising ground moisture from lack of barrier will certainly add to the air moisture content as well. Clean the mold, put in the barrier, and keep the vents CLOSED in the summer to limit humidity intrusion. If condensation still occurs, the next step is sealing the vents and installing a permanent dehumidifier.
If the subfloor and door area is water damaged, that is likely a flashing issue at either the door or a deck. Ground water intrusion does not cause those problems. Feel free to ask any questions you have either here or in a private message.
You sure about those numbers chief? I don't know how you'd possibly maintain the crawlspace under 50% humidity.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
