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I think the codes changed where if you have a ridge vent and soffit vents then the gable vents have to be permanently sealed because the air coming from the gable vents disrupts natural airflow convection from the soffit vents up through the ridge vent. I had my gable vents removed when my house was resided because they installed soffit vents that weren't there previously and I have a ridge vent on the roof. Bats used to roost up in the gable vents and created a huge mess to clean up so I'm happy that the gable vents and the bats are gone forever.
As mentioned above, reducing infiltration is typically one of the bigger savings, and some can be very inexpensive.
When I got my house, I bought electrical outlet & electrical switch plate cover "gaskets". They are sheets of thin foam with the openings stamped out. Lowes Depot have the very cheap. Over a week's worth of TV show commercial breaks to run over, unscrew, add gasket, re- screw, got all the exterior walls sealed, for just a few dollars. (Use a cordless screwdriver for speed and keep your hand from getting tired.)
Next, as the OP said, make sure your weatherproofing on doors and windows are tight. If you have single pane or badly sealed windows and can't afford to replace them yet, some may in a location where you can seal the entire opening. They make a kit that goes over the entire frame and is heat-shrink plastic you tighten with a hair dryer. If you have to open the window (say in the spring or fall), just cut and trash the plastic as it's super cheap too. Reinstall for summer or winter).
Next: Make sure your air filters are replaced often. Fans struggling to blow through dirty coils don't blow less but rather they take extra energy. Also, hose down and clean the outside unit ("condensing unit") cooling fins.
Next: Annually drain to clean the corrosion and sludge that builds up in your water heater. I wait until it's time to drain and store my garden hoses for the winter, and connect them to the hose drain from the tank. Open the drain and let the hot water flush out the hoses as the water flushes out the tank. When the water runs clear, close the drain, and the hoses will be warm enough to coil up easily.
Also: do a review of your south and west facing walls and windows. Look for trees and bushes to provide shade, if none, consider adding IR-blocking window film.
One final note: RE: attic. Be careful about where you have and add insulation, have and add ventilation.
Like crawlspaces, if done wrong, you will build up attic moisture from condensation out of the air and can cause massive damage.
If the insulation is on the floor of the attic, then the attic is ventilated. Add insulation to replace or increase the depth of the floor, but DO NOT put it on the underside of the roof.
If the insulation is on the underside of the roof, then the attic is sealed, effectively being another room of your A/C and heated house. Add or replace the roof insulation but do NOT add a fan.
In either case, if there is or needs to be a moisture barrier layer, make sure it goes in the right place.
PS: here's a cool tip: If you can get your hands on an IR camera (or IR attachment for your phone), wait until a cool night and use it outside looking at your house to spot "heat leaks".
If no IR camera; wait until right after a winter snowfall, you can see heat leaks melting irregular locations of your roof.
If you’re going to add attic insulation, don’t do it until you’ve gone through the attic and sealed every crack or gap along the walls as well as the holes where the wires come through. If you have any chases where ductwork runs, install plywood over and seal with spray foam up to the ducts or whatever. You’ll get more efficiency gains from sealing that adding the insulation. Once you have done that, which will require moving the insulation you have around, rake it all smooth and then add more on top. You can also use cellulose insulation which resists air movement more than fiberglass , but there’s still benefit to sealing those gaps.
Also, if you’re ever redoing floors in a room with an outside wall, seal the place under the baseboard where the wall framing meets the subfloor while the flooring is out. And of course all the electrical boxes help too.
I thought about applying closed cell spray foam underneath the roof deck/between the rafters but had concerns about off-gassing, having to apply an ignition barrier after the spray foam fully cures, and the fact that you won't be able to see leaks in the roof sheathing as the spray foam would conceal them.
A couple of building science consulting companies have recommended insulating above the roof deck and apply the soffit and ridge vents. You essentially would have two roof decks. ProTradeCraft and JLC Online are a couple of those firms that recommended that method.
A couple of videos posted below for conceptualization. Note how the wall and roof systems tie in together as they are a part of the belt & suspenders approach to air sealing and insulating a home.
I thought about applying closed cell spray foam underneath the roof deck/between the rafters but had concerns about off-gassing, having to apply an ignition barrier after the spray foam fully cures, and the fact that you won't be able to see leaks in the roof sheathing as the spray foam would conceal them.
A couple of building science consulting companies have recommended insulating above the roof deck and apply the soffit and ridge vents. You essentially would have two roof decks. ProTradeCraft and JLC Online are a couple of those firms that recommended that method.
A couple of videos posted below for conceptualization. Note how the wall and roof systems tie in together as they are a part of the belt & suspenders approach to air sealing and insulating a home.
This would be super expensive and I don’t see you ever recouping the investment. Plus it would change the look of your house which might not be a bad thing depending, but unless you have a super simple simple roof, will impact the siding also and require reworks of flashing and siding.
This would be super expensive and I don’t see you ever recouping the investment. Plus it would change the look of your house which might not be a bad thing depending, but unless you have a super simple simple roof, will impact the siding also and require reworks of flashing and siding.
The lifetime of the retrofit would expire before any full payoff of expense would be in sight on a horizon, methinks.
Thanks again, All. Getting attic insulation estimates now. Turns out the stuff up there is 1970 vintage, and at whatever relatively low R- rating they manufactured back then, has likely *lost R / efficiency over the decades. Estimators are saying we're quite under-insulated.... efficiency has improved greatly in 52 years. Also spec'ing weatherizing around the attic pull-down door, which is in the front hallway next to the main HVAC return and the thermostat. One insulation co. thinks the good suction of our brand-new Rheem Heat/Air system is pulling hot attic air down into the house via the least common denominator (leaky spot), re: the leaky old attic access door. Windows are already upgraded... though just 2000 vintage. Ventilation fan out of attic said to be fairly effective as is by estimators. Once we get this done, I'll be curious to see the Duke Energy line graph / energy report for us a couple months into the future. We'll see how much difference this makes.
If you’re going to add attic insulation, don’t do it until you’ve gone through the attic and sealed every crack or gap along the walls as well as the holes where the wires come through. If you have any chases where ductwork runs, install plywood over and seal with spray foam up to the ducts or whatever. You’ll get more efficiency gains from sealing that adding the insulation. Once you have done that, which will require moving the insulation you have around, rake it all smooth and then add more on top. You can also use cellulose insulation which resists air movement more than fiberglass , but there’s still benefit to sealing those gaps.
Also, if you’re ever redoing floors in a room with an outside wall, seal the place under the baseboard where the wall framing meets the subfloor while the flooring is out. And of course all the electrical boxes help too.
The Sheriff gave you some of the best fundamental advice.
Air infiltration and loss of conditioned air are huge energy drags in 50 year old houses.
A caulking gun and a case of caulk and a few cans of Great Stuff foam will give you as big a payoff as the more expensive, "sexier" stuff. Generally, insulation is best for reducing conductance loss rather than leaking air both ways.
I would agree, going through the attic and sealing pipe and wiring and any duct penetrations, along with the good idea to seal up the stairs, will give you a good payoff.
Cellulose will seal better than fiberglass, yes, but won't deliver bang for the buck improvement as meticulously caulking and foaming will.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gball721
Thanks again, All. Getting attic insulation estimates now. Turns out the stuff up there is 1970 vintage, and at whatever relatively low R- rating they manufactured back then, has likely *lost R / efficiency over the decades. Estimators are saying we're quite under-insulated.... efficiency has improved greatly in 52 years. Also spec'ing weatherizing around the attic pull-down door, which is in the front hallway next to the main HVAC return and the thermostat. One insulation co. thinks the good suction of our brand-new Rheem Heat/Air system is pulling hot attic air down into the house via the least common denominator (leaky spot), re: the leaky old attic access door. Windows are already upgraded... though just 2000 vintage. Ventilation fan out of attic said to be fairly effective as is by estimators. Once we get this done, I'll be curious to see the Duke Energy line graph / energy report for us a couple months into the future. We'll see how much difference this makes.
The Sheriff gave you some of the best fundamental advice.
Air infiltration and loss of conditioned air are huge energy drags in 50 year old houses.
A caulking gun and a case of caulk and a few cans of Great Stuff foam will give you as big a payoff as the more expensive, "sexier" stuff. Generally, insulation is best for reducing conductance loss rather than leaking air both ways.
I would agree, going through the attic and sealing pipe and wiring and any duct penetrations, along with the good idea to seal up the stairs, will give you a good payoff.
Cellulose will seal better than fiberglass, yes, but won't deliver bang for the buck improvement as meticulously caulking and foaming will.
Definitely going to do this for wiring etc. that drops from attic to junctions and canlights, etc, before the insulation crew. Ducting and chases are *under the main level (single story 'rancher') and come upward from our full basement ...so nothing to seal from above, that way. Thanks again, all!
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