twobyfour , typicially we refer to a calculator as firecalc or something like fidelity's RIP.
but the problem is really you need to understand what the results mean , who they apply to and what they should be used for.
none of the data these calculators use was meant to be a life long plan or perhaps even a plan for you.
these numbers took on a life of their own on and are a far cry from the professional intention they were intended to be used for.
i will try to explain as simple as i can.
see this chart
that chart is showing us every rolling 30 year period and simply showing us what each 30 year period would have let some one draw out ,inflation adjust and keep that constant flow going with no cut in pay.
the retirement time frames vary depending on 3 things, each years return , interest rates ,inflation ,and the actual sequence of gains and losses for each 30 year period..
as you can see the average safe withdrawal over history is really up around 6.5% looking at everything.
but you see those low points ? particularly 1966 ?
the whole idea of 4% was based on the fact a withdrawal rate had to be cut down to no more than 4% so most of the worst of times passed through.
we are talking maybe 3or 4 periods where you had to drop to 4% out of 111 rolling 30 year periods to avoid a pay cut. if you are okay with out planning for those absolute worst case scenerio then go higher by all means.
because people are trying to use these results on their own without professional guidance the safe floor to start was based on 4% which represented the low water mark so folks stood a better chance of not hurting themselves left to their own devices.
now what do those worst conditions mean to us since we can't predict the future?
well research has found there was a common denominator to all the worst case conditions that failed .
the combinition of market returns that year, interest rates, inflation and sequences of gains and losses all were under 2% real return for the first 15 years.
that is very useful info , because that means what ever happened in the past to cause whatever it caused does not matter.
everything sums up to whether the first 15 years were averaging at least a real return of 2% or not.
when you monitor things in your retirement if you are finding whatever you are doing is not at least adding up to 2% or better after 7-10 years in you better evaluate things because you are in danger even the floor of 4% will not hold.
these calculators make it seem like one size fits all , here is your withdrawal rate and have a nice life.
your financial life is far more complex and personal to you.
it is okay if you are gun shy to start at 4% but if not go higher , you can always monitor your real return and adjust later.