Reflections on Salem after 1.5 years living here (Portland, Corvallis: for sale, new home)

[southbysoutheast]

I recently looked at an old thread I started when I was thinking of moving to Salem and I thought it might be useful to post an update now that we've been living here for over a year. Hope this helps. If you have any specific questions feel free to ask.

My wife and I absolutely love Salem. We moved in July of 2008 and rented a house in West Salem for the first nine months. We really liked West Salem because there's just enough of everything (restaurants, stores, bars, parks & rec) for you to leave the car parked and walk where you need to go. We enjoyed walking the hills and taking in the incredible views of the Valley. Honestly, there should be a state park at the peak where you can see every mountain from Ranier (across the border in WA) to Jefferson and most of the Willamette Valley in between. But traffic over the bridge to West Salem could be heavy in the morning and afternoon and I sat in enough traffic in Atlanta to last the rest of my life (admittedly, it's always a 10 minute bike ride, but we never did fully commit to biking).

When it came time to buy we chose a house just south of downtown Salem in Bush Pasture Park. I'm a grad student at Willamette and my wife works there too so the commute now is literally a walk in the park (or a 3 minute drive). Houses are still very affordable here and we love our nifty-fifties rancher (complete with avocado fridge). We don't have kids yet but the area is supposed to have good schools.

If you love to cook and eat fresh food this is the place. Marion County literally has the most diverse agriculture in the entire country and it shows at the markets. Apparently the only real truffle oil made in the US is from the valley, and we just found a great local olive grower. Our own garden did very well the first summer and we're planning to plant a lot more this spring. If you drive 10 minutes in any direction you're back in the beautiful farmlands and hills that produce the food and wine the Willamette Valley is famous for. And if Salem doesn't have it it isn't far.

Salem itself has a small but good restaurant scene that is rapidly improving. Some of the best food in the world is in Portland, Seattle, and San Francisco and I think the Willamette Valley's agriculture is starting to draw some real talent to the area. When you have the time and money for a truly incredible meal, make a reservation in Portland.

The recreation here is unbeatable. The Cascade Range is 30 minutes to the east, the Coastal Range is 30 minutes to the west, the coast itself is just over an hour to the east, and Portland is 45 minutes to the north. We love to explore these areas and every time we do we find more to enjoy. Even though law school doesn't leave much time for it, we've been able to go biking, hiking, fishing, boating, whale watching, and wine tasting. Next on the list is camping, skiing, crabbing, and berry picking.

If you're thinking about moving here you're probably wondering about the weather but my wife and I have decided that Oregonians are raised to lie about the weather to outsiders because they hate Californians and its part of an elaborate scheme to keep them from moving here. It did just rain for three straight days, but really it doesn't do that very often and it doesn't rain much at all during the summer. One time I met a friend and longtime resident at a restaurant and the first thing out of his mouth was, "How about this weather? Depressing huh." My response was to point out the window at the beautiful and cloudless blue sky. My wife and I love to joke about it and often celebrate good weather by asking how terrible and depressing the weather was that day. We do that a lot. One friend swears that it rained for six months straight 15 years ago. Maybe it did, all I can tell you is that the weather would have to be a lot worse to be anything near depressing. And when it does rain it doesn't storm like it does in the south and midwest. Its usually just a light mist. There was one thunderstorm this summer and people were panicking. Someone in my office came in and said, "the radio said we should stay away from the windows." My wife and I thought that was hilarious because we've been riding out regular afternoon tornadoes and occasional hurricanes in the south and midwest for years.

If there's one thing Salem could use it's a truly great bar. Our 20s are behind us so its not that important but you just need a good beer in a solid bar every once in a while. There are several candidates but no clear winner yet. I hear that the best place in town just opened up and there's another one opening that could contend. I'll let you know after I go.

Here's a our list of our favorites in Salem:
Top Restaurant: Word of Mouth Bistro - breakfast, lunch & dinner, love it
Runner up: Morton's - romantic, very good French-creative cuisine
Coffee: Gov's Cup, The Beanery, French Press
Mexican: La Hacienda Real
Burger: Willamette Burger Co.
Pizza: Straight From New York
BBQ: Adam's Ribs
Chinese Delivery: Hong Kong House
Japanese: Fuji Rice Time
Indian: India Palace
Thai: Thai Orchid
Pho: Vietnam Restaurant
Bakery: Cascade Baking Co., Croissant & Co.
Markets: The Saturday Market, Salem Public Market
Bars: Jammers (eclectic), Johnny's (younger/newer), Magoo's (old school)
Winery: Eversham Wood, but go find your own fav there are literally hundreds
24hrs: Muchas Gracias
Other Good Eats: The Wild Pear, King Doughnuts, The Dairy Lunch, Cafe 22, White's

[southbysoutheast]

I don't know this person and this is not a plug but there's also a really good blog about Salem here: Desperately Seeking Salem

[Oregonbeachlover]

Southbysoutheast, I want to give you kudos for one of the best posts I have read in a long time! I totally agree with you about the weather too. I have given up arguing it, but your assessment is dead on. We lived in west Salem for years and I, too, loved looking out the window at the valley and the mountains. West Salem is beautiful. Salem has a lot to offer for a full and happy life, and you have described it very well.

[Silverfall]

Originally Posted by southbysoutheast

I don't know this person and this is not a plug but there's also a really good blog about Salem here: Desperately Seeking Salem

Emily has lived in Salem about the same time as you. She is a great writer. There is an entire site dedicated to Salem bloggers, called Salemites. You can go to any of the local Salem blogs from there.

[mamh]

south by south east, thanks for you post, this is the way we feel about after 6 years..We leave on the northeast side of town and love it..
I hope anyone and everyone who is thinking about the valley should read this..
Have a happy day

[mamh]

Me again , Silverfalls is this delightfull lady in the Statesman Journal or where may we find her blog.
Bye Again

[Silverfall]

Originally Posted by mamh

Me again , Silverfalls is this delightfull lady in the Statesman Journal or where may we find her blog.
Bye Again

Emily writes for the Salem Monthly. Not sure about the SJ. I wouldn't be surprised though, she is a great writing talent.

[Fiddlehead]

I tend to not like cheerleading, but I will make an exception for Salem. A very nice area. I used to love passing through there on my way to Silver Falls State Park. What a gem!!!

I will beg to differ on the weather though. Sure it is mild, but the cloud cover can definitely grind down the sensitive, whereas others don't seem to mind a bit. I am pretty tolerant, but found my stint in Corvallis to be a bit too soggy! Southern Oregon is just my cup of tea on that front!

Glad you are enjoying your new home South by Southeast!!

[Metlakatla]

You're definitely in a great neighborhood...used to live there. Be sure to check out the semi-annual plant sales that Bush Gardens has, and try the Off Center Cafe. Sunday mornings can be a bit busy there but other days not so much. That little garden store on 13th is pretty great too, as is Lifesource Natural Foods.

[Smiled]

Salem does have its nice places. It did take me 15 years to finally accept the winters, though. But they ARE what keeps one's skin soft, and surroundings green.