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Old 12-08-2016, 08:38 AM
 
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I am not having much luck searching online, but I am looking for a local body shop that does metal patchwork on sheetmetal using tig/mig welding techniques. I have some holes in a project of mine that was drilled by previous owner that I want closed up.

Does anyone have any leads for me?
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Old 12-08-2016, 04:27 PM
 
Location: the 50s and the 60s
847 posts, read 2,233,448 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure110 View Post
I am not having much luck searching online, but I am looking for a local body shop that does metal patchwork on sheetmetal using tig/mig welding techniques. I have some holes in a project of mine that was drilled by previous owner that I want closed up.

Does anyone have any leads for me?
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how thick is your sheet metal??

paper thin or more??
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:53 PM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
34,744 posts, read 58,102,528 times
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most 'old school' body shops will be qualified and happy to help you out.

Don't waste your time with a big, prominent name brand place. They need to do conventional / quoted repairs to keep profitable.

Look for ads on Craigslist and go see what quality of work they do, you probably have someone very close to your location who can do your welding and refinish work.

TIG is most appropriate for quality repair. especially if you need finished / restored surface on both sides.

A welding shop can do it, but might be a bit crude on finish. (depending on who you find / or what you need.)
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:28 AM
 
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Yes any good, welding shop can do this. They will use a grinder to smooth it off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthRabbit View Post
most 'old school' body shops will be qualified and happy to help you out.

Don't waste your time with a big, prominent name brand place. They need to do conventional / quoted repairs to keep profitable.

Look for ads on Craigslist and go see what quality of work they do, you probably have someone very close to your location who can do your welding and refinish work.

TIG is most appropriate for quality repair. especially if you need finished / restored surface on both sides.

A welding shop can do it, but might be a bit crude on finish. (depending on who you find / or what you need.)

Last edited by huckster; 12-09-2016 at 05:54 AM..
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:35 AM
 
6,707 posts, read 8,784,667 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *mud* View Post
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how thick is your sheet metal??

paper thin or more??
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Mud: I haven't measured it but my guess what I have now is 18 gauge.
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:41 AM
 
6,707 posts, read 8,784,667 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huckster View Post
Yes any good, welding shop can do this. They will use a grinder to smooth it off.
It is hard finding a local welder willing to do a small job like this and knows how to work with sheet metal.
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Old 12-09-2016, 02:16 PM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
34,744 posts, read 58,102,528 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure110 View Post
It is hard finding a local welder willing to do a small job like this and knows how to work with sheet metal.
again, find a local shop, not a big commercial establishment.

Plenty of PT welders on CL, or drop by your local shop and explain they can 'fit-it-in' as time is available.(probably on the guy's lunch break to save you money)

Aluminum or steel? (magnetic?)

18ga is pretty thick so should be easy to fix.

Do you need both sides finished (can you see both sides?) That is a little trickier. (Use copper bar as a 'back-up' support and to give flat surface on back-side for weld)

How big are these holes you are patching? 1/8" (3mm) or 2" (50mm)? Any rust / corrosion / paint?

Need to really clean it up nice BEFORE heading to the welding shop. (saves them time + they can see what they need to fix)

Harbor Freight can fix you up with a device to clean up the areas. (flap disk?, wire brushes...)
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Old 12-09-2016, 02:25 PM
 
Location: the 50s and the 60s
847 posts, read 2,233,448 times
Reputation: 1574
Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthRabbit View Post
again, find a local shop, not a big commercial establishment.

Plenty of PT welders on CL, or drop by your local shop and explain they can 'fit-it-in' as time is available.(probably on the guy's lunch break to save you money)

Aluminum or steel? (magnetic?)

18ga is pretty thick so should be easy to fix.

Do you need both sides finished (can you see both sides?) That is a little trickier. (Use copper bar as a 'back-up' support and to give flat surface on back-side for weld)

How big are these holes you are patching? 1/8" (3mm) or 2" (50mm)? Any rust / corrosion / paint?

Need to really clean it up nice BEFORE heading to the welding shop. (saves them time + they can see what they need to fix)

Harbor Freight can fix you up with a device to clean up the areas. (flap disk?, wire brushes...)
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great questions. more details would be great.

I weld sheet metal all the time.

the desired result of the finished surface needed is important info.

may be possible to solder (again, more details needed)

gotta picture??
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Old 12-12-2016, 07:58 AM
 
6,707 posts, read 8,784,667 times
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Mud:

My guess is that the bolts are between 1/2" and 3/4". Sheetmetal is steel. The area of concern is in the wheel well. Once the hole is closed up, it can be painted which I have no problem doing myself.

I can take some pics and DM to you later.
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Old 12-12-2016, 01:08 PM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
34,744 posts, read 58,102,528 times
Reputation: 46232
Can you remove the 'inner fender' and take it in?

You could go to hardware store and fetch a 'fender' washer that could be spot welded in and center hole welded shut, or Welding Shop might be able to 'punch' a slug to fit in the hole, then weld. I will guess that a #8 -#10 fender washer will be thin enough to make welding EZ.

The CL welder guy seems a pretty decent choice (I only see one (sheetmetal welder) listed for SA Downtown area) You don't want a Fabrication Welder, tho they can likely scale back the power and do sheet metal, the Sheetmetal welders have a 'stitch' setting to not blow away thin material. TIG is best, but not always portable.
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