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Old 09-11-2015, 08:24 AM
 
Location: Forests of Maine
37,468 posts, read 61,406,816 times
Reputation: 30414

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An assortment of gardening tips

Garden Tips

From a large group of experienced gardeners, and compiled for your approval.

"... To inoculate pea seeds with nitrogen-fixing bacteria, I slightly moisten the seed in a bowl and mix the inoculant into it. The inoculant adheres well. Leftover seed is put back in the packet with no damage to the seed ..."

"... We don’t plant nightshades until the weather has really warmed, but we also want to put out strong, healthy plants. We use waxed cardboard milk or juice cartons as our “pot.” Cut off the top and bottom, place them in a wooden tray and fill with potting soil. You’ll get 8 inches of roots. When planting, slip the carton up off the roots so that the bottom of the carton is flush with the top of the soil level. You can also bend down a tab on the carton and use it to label the plant; it stays with the plant throughout the season. The carton also defeats cutworms. ..."

"... All year I dump my coffee grounds into a big, square, food-grade plastic container in the kitchen. Come spring, I erect an inch-high protective ring around transplanted seedlings and newly emerged beans, lettuce and the like. Slugs and snails, which I seem to house in abundance, will not cross the gritty ridges, and rain does not wash the grounds away. They are cheaper and more effective than diatomaceous earth. ..."

"... Wrap young trees in aluminum foil in winter to prevent rodent damage ..."


And many more tried and tested ideas
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:47 AM
 
Location: Backwoods of Maine
7,488 posts, read 10,490,127 times
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Up our way, Sub, I find that "semi-hoops" work well. What's a "semi-hoop"? It's a regular hoop house covered with plastic, but the plastic is removed around mid-June, when the temps have really warmed up. It might be replaced later in fall. A few crops are left under plastic all season.

It's a season-extender that adds about 2-3 USDA zones to our Maine climate.
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:53 AM
 
Location: Forests of Maine
37,468 posts, read 61,406,816 times
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There is a big assortment of high-tunnels, low-tunnels, hoops, and greenhouses.

I am hoping to get my second harvesting of figs this year before the temps turn cool.
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:59 AM
 
Location: Backwoods of Maine
7,488 posts, read 10,490,127 times
Reputation: 21470
Quote:
Originally Posted by Submariner View Post
There is a big assortment of high-tunnels, low-tunnels, hoops, and greenhouses.
Yeah, but I don't see too many growers who remove and replace the plastic, as I do. They tend to build the structure with the plastic on it, and leave it that way. Some crops can bolt under that kind of heat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Submariner View Post
I am hoping to get my second harvesting of figs this year before the temps turn cool.
YUM!!
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Old 09-11-2015, 10:37 AM
 
1,344 posts, read 3,406,106 times
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I didn't see frost covered in there.

My tip for frost. Grab your shop towels (about 12"x12") and cover your plants with those. Even with a late frost, your plants that need covering (tomatoes, peppers...) are still small enough to fit under the towels.

Using the shop towels is a lot faster than using sheets or whatever else that's large.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:38 AM
 
5,152 posts, read 1,417,217 times
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How to control cutworms on tomato plants

It's simple, when you plant your tomato plants, put a toothpick (or a small stick) right next to the plant. Make sure it touches the plant. A cutworm needs to be able to wrap itself around the plant completely in order to cut it. With a toothpick or small stick in-between, it can't cut.

Some people wrap aluminum foil around the stems.
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:06 PM
 
Location: Ohio
1,217 posts, read 2,836,684 times
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I live in Florida and my seasons are flip-flopped from northern gardeners.

My tip is to keep your extra seeds in the fridge for next year. I rarely ever use a whole packet of seed per growing season and beans and other veggies germinate much better by staying cold. I just started some collards which grow great in FL winter and green beans have been in the ground for a couple weeks, almost blooming.

My best producing fruit trees come from local specialty nurseries who know what grows in my local area. Every single fruit/citrus tree from big box stores dies in a couple years. Cheaper is not better but the "good" fruit trees actually only cost 5% more although had to drive to the next city to buy them.

Join a plant club locally and you can get cuttings from good "no name" plants like mulberries or other bushes. Trees it's better to buy (see above) to make sure they are on a good rootstock suited to your area. There are also seed savers and plant traders groups to join but I prefer one-to-one exchanges when someone has a plant I'd like. See if you have anything they want and offer to trade. Many "free" plants can be invasive and once I found fire ants in the bottom of a pot, horrible.

My yard is small but produces lots of food, not everything we need but more than everyone in my neighborhood. I do not use chemicals, all-organic. When I have too many collards to freeze or eat I juice them and make collard ice cubes for veggie juice. Small amount gives a lot of vitamins and nutrition.
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