Easy Cheap "Log Cabin" Made From Regular 2x8 Lumber

[TRex2]

Originally Posted by ColoGuy

Point taken though indoor air pollution is an issue without sufficient air turnover. Homes can be sealed so well that it is necessary to blow in fresh air - cold air in the winter. Kind of self defeating in a way.

I live in a super cold area. The balance between fresh air and warm air can get interesting at times. Usually the sunroom makes all kinds of heat. This winter was cloudy so propane was used more than usual.

I don't know if I have brought this up before, but running an air intake tube underground (somewhat deeper than the freeze line) can moderate the temperature of your fresh air, quite a bit. Run it on a continual slope to a sump to drain the water from it.

[TimPommell]

The botton course is treated. I would do the entire exterior out of ground contact, seal it and forget about it.

Originally Posted by Tetto

Looks pretty cool; I wonder if the wood he used is pressure treated. Otherwise I would think standard Doug fir will rot in a fairly short period of time. I like it though and may try it when I rebuild my shed!

[TimPommell]

I just did a rough calculation, with current prices you could buy the lumber for a 36 x 48 building for $6,000. You could upgrade the outside slab layer to ground contact treated for an additional $500 which is appealing.... you can also add a 4th layer for $1500.... something to actually consider. Instead of 4.5" walls, you'd be at 6".... $8,000 is not bad for 1728sf of 6" thick wood exterior walls, with treated lumber as your finished exterior siding.
You can obviously frame one for less, but you can't insulate and finish the interior for anywhere near that. Certainly a retirement option that bears consideration.....

Originally Posted by MTSilvertip

For a shed pressure treated would be fine, but for a cabin, I don't think you would want to be exposed to all that copper and other chemicals.
Raw wood with a good primer and paint on the exterior and a good paint or urethane on the interior would give you good results.

A good steel roof with at least 2 foot eaves will also protect the exterior walls. Making sure to have a good foundation high enough and sealed to prevent wicking will also alleviate a lot of the rot problems.

[Dave_n_Tenn]

Those wall will have about a R-7 insulation value without considering thermal mass. If insulation is desired you could substitute the middle board with structural foam. R-3.5 per inch so about R-5 so. End result would be R-8 to 9 depending on the foam board. In addition you would have a thermal break. This would add to the cost substantially but in northern areas the pay back would be worth it.

[Bowden]

May be a ignorant question but could this be done with 2x10s instead of 2x8s? I understand that the process would be essentially the same but I am really asking if there is a dramatic difference or reason for using 2x8s rather than 2x10s?

[Dave_n_Tenn]

Originally Posted by Bowden

May be a ignorant question but could this be done with 2x10s instead of 2x8s? I understand that the process would be essentially the same but I am really asking if there is a dramatic difference or reason for using 2x8s rather than 2x10s?

Yes 2x10's will work, or 2x6's for that matter. Just make sure you get the same dimensions on the finished lumber and buy the same grade. Buy from the same lot.

[Submariner]

Here in Maine, we have a couple of 'log cabin' builders, who mill their timber in a 'D' shape [three straight sides like a 4X4, and one side that remains rounded]. The tops and bottoms have tongue and grove, so they lock in together during construction.

I have a friend who bought bare wooded land, and she contracted a local builder who cut trees on her land, milled them on-site, and constructed her a new house using only the wood felled on-site.

[Dave_n_Tenn]

Originally Posted by Submariner

Here in Maine, we have a couple of 'log cabin' builders, who mill their timber in a 'D' shape [three straight sides like a 4X4, and one side that remains rounded]. The tops and bottoms have tongue and grove, so they lock in together during construction.

I have a friend who bought bare wooded land, and she contracted a local builder who cut trees on her land, milled them on-site, and constructed her a new house using only the wood felled on-site.

Works if you have a kiln or when the humidity is way down for a long time, like winter.

[Submariner]

Originally Posted by Dave_n_Tenn

Works if you have a kiln or when the humidity is way down for a long time, like winter.

I am not sure if they kiln-dry their lumber, or not. I have never stopped to examine their business model that closely.

I know of two local farmers whose primary crop is corn, and both of them have huge warehouses, which have kilns inside. They kiln-dry corn and store it indoors. Their primary market is all the folks who run pellet stoves.

I know that when I go to buy a few tonnes of corn I am always asked if I want to buy regular dry corn, or if I want kiln-dried corn.