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Old 10-05-2011, 10:59 AM
 
Location: Sputnik Planitia
7,829 posts, read 11,794,661 times
Reputation: 9045

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Vehicle is a 2004 Nissan Frontier XE 4cyl 5spd, 79,000 miles, bought it brand new in Feb '04...all services performed upto now per maintenance schedule and have had no issues with the vehicle so far. However want to be aware of what is upcoming in terms of replacement for a vehicle in this age group. Vehicle has a timing chain so no issues there.

Fan/alternator/WP belt (currently squealing and will be replaced)
Water pump?
Clutch?

anything else I should be considering? I think 80k is not much mileage for today's vehicles and nothing major should need replacing?
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:44 PM
 
Location: somewhere near Pittsburgh, PA
1,437 posts, read 3,777,536 times
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Replace the belt and don't fret over the other stuff. There's no telling when other items may break. Could be tomorrow or it could be never. I drive a 1997 Mustang and I'm still on the original alternator, water pump, radiator etc.
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:16 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
17,218 posts, read 57,099,641 times
Reputation: 18583
Clutch could be 90% life remaining or 90% life done, depending on how you drive the truck, your skill in getting it moving with minimal slippage (or do you even pay attention to that?) etc.

I see numbskulls slipping the clutch to keep the car stationary at a light on a hill in Seattle every time I go there. Usually an idiot kid trying to call attention to the fact that he's driving a stickshift car...

Just saying that it has a timing chain so "no issues there" - well, at 80K, probably not. But timing chains do wear, to just say "chain good, belt bad" is way oversimplifying the issue.

Of course miles by themselves are not all that good an indicator of wear - 80K worth of highway miles with few short trips means the car is mechanically not much different from new. 80K of slogging aroung the Big Apple with plenty of short trips in winter, potholes, salt, etc. could mean the truck is starting to look seriously long of tooth.
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:10 PM
 
859 posts, read 2,829,782 times
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I would do the belt(s) and change all the fluids. Nothing else needs attention until it gives you problems. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have the front suspension and steering looked at though. I've seen a few of these trucks wear the ball joints prematurely but that is not common.

my Tacoma is just a touch over 250K and all I have done is a couple of timing belts, dive belts, fluids, brakes and finally shocks. And of course a couple of sets of tires.

The Frontier is not a bad truck. It will let you know when something needs attention.
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:31 PM
 
Location: Sputnik Planitia
7,829 posts, read 11,794,661 times
Reputation: 9045
is $200 to change the 3 belts parts + labor reasonable?
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:38 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
17,218 posts, read 57,099,641 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k374 View Post
is $200 to change the 3 belts parts + labor reasonable?
IMHO - no. If this is the typical 3-belt setup where one belt drives the fan/water pump, one drives power steering, and one drives A/C - if you have 2 normal hands, and will invest in a set of combination wrenches, that and the 3 belts are all you need to do the job. A bit more time consuming than an oil change but even a petite lady who does not have really long nails and is not totally allergic to a little dirt and grease can DIY this no problemo.

On some BMW cars (for example) the belts are easier to get at from beneath the car, better to put it on ramps at least, but even if you need to get under this truck it probably is high enough off the ground to not need lifting.
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Old 10-05-2011, 04:02 PM
 
Location: Sputnik Planitia
7,829 posts, read 11,794,661 times
Reputation: 9045
thanks M3, I am actually good at tech and have a myriad of tools since I used to work on my bike myself (have changed clutches, brakes/brake lines, forks etc.). However a bike is completely open and easy to work on...I am a bit hesistant to work on the car due to a couple of reasons - my car is my main transport and if I mess up I will be stranded and not be able to get to work, second I don't want to get under a car as I feel claustrophobic

But I will def take a look today to get a feel for it.
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Old 10-05-2011, 05:52 PM
 
Location: Eastern NC
20,868 posts, read 23,565,307 times
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At 80k you should be looking at belts and hoses to be replaced but you could wait until 90K or even 100K and you should be fine although with squeling belts, I would get them replaced soon.
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:41 PM
 
Location: Summerville, SC
3,382 posts, read 8,652,730 times
Reputation: 1457
Is replace the belt. Just do it yourself. If you have worked on a bike you can do most stuff.

Get a haynes or chilton's manual. No clue how Nissan does it but most 90s and newer cars have belt tensioners. A spring loaded pulley that puts tension on a belt. Throw a wrench on it and compress the spring and pull the belt off. Then put on in reverse.

Hell search YouTube might even be a god on your truck.

You have a rwd 4 cyl in a bay big enough for a 6, its actually probably not that hard to work.


Change fluids, have you done plugs? Change fuelfilter if it hasn't been done yet. Hoses should be fine. I have a 2k car with 115k and hoses are fine.

Has the car ever had a tune up? Is consider new plugs and wires.

Sent from my autocorrect butchering device.
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Old 10-05-2011, 07:42 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
17,218 posts, read 57,099,641 times
Reputation: 18583
Depending on where you are, replacing the brake fluid, which is also an easy DIY, using a Mity-Vac or similar, or if you are patient you can just do it by gravity using a simple clear plastic tube to drain the dirty fluid into a catch jar, is a good idea. Clutch fluid too if applicable.

Ditto the lube in the trans and the rear end, and front end if it's 4WD. A good synthetic in the gearboxes will pay for itself in saved fuel, and maybe in reduced wear.

Agree on the fuel filter, it's way overdue if still original, likewise an O2 sensor can pay for itself in saved fuel. New spark plugs, you should have had at least one change already, but if you have gone 80K on the original plugs, you would benefit from a change. With an aluminum head you want to do the plugs with the engine cold, and you want to put a bit of anti-seize on the threads. If they are stuck, break them loose gradually, put some Kroil or PB Blaster in there, and don't be leaving them in for so darn long next time.

Now would be a good time to do all this stuff before winter starts in earnest.
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