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I recently purchased a an SUV with tires that have about 12,000 miles on them and a 7/32 tread depth. I don't like the way they ride or handle and was wondering if there are any chain tire shops or businesses that will give you trade in credit towards the purchase of new tires?
Yes, some of the chain shops and even dealers will offer you "trade-in" credits for good used tires. Generally you are better off selling them yourself privately, but if you want an easy way to get a few bucks out of them trading them may work out fine. Call around to some of the tire chains in your area and see what programs they are running as a lot of times those deals are part of a larger manufacturer program tied to you buying specific tires.
I recently purchased a an SUV with tires that have about 12,000 miles on them and a 7/32 tread depth. I don't like the way they ride or handle and was wondering if there are any chain tire shops or businesses that will give you trade in credit towards the purchase of new tires?
I have to ask, how do you know/why do you think the issue is the tires, rather than, for example, shocks?
Just dawned on me - go to a used tire dealer, and buy some different tires used, they will be much more willing to play ball with you, and if the tires don't solve the problem, you are out less money...
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
34,690 posts, read 58,004,579 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duster1979
I'd like to retract this statement. For some reason my overworked brain was converting 7/32 into less than 1/8" when in fact it is just under 1/4".
I have seen tires on trucks worn to that level which adversely affect steering, I recently sold a truck (4x4 dually cummins) and buyer put NEW tires on front and it went crazy. He changed brands and all is fine (even with similar tread). (1 gen Dodge is known to be flaky on steering and brakes... nothing too serious ). The Bias / direction of belts / reinforcement bindings can significantly be obvious on a tire with tall and flexible sidewalls. Try turning them around or better yet, cross rotating (just as a test... not great to do on a truck radial). Check wear patterns, ironically tires that wear quite flat across the face can be very 'Grabby', noticeable when crossing road diagonally, or on exit ramp.
7/23" (.2188") or... 5.5mm for us 'Inch' deprived folks... (I was a toolmaker who worked in a USA company that went full metric in 1978, all my mic's and indicators are metric, and wouldn't you know it... I just took a toolmaker job at an Oregon company that prides itself in being AMERICAN; even to using inches and BLUEPRINTS (I haven't had a dimensioned drawing to work from since 1982)
Ironically, I have seen more 'measurement' mistakes in the last 6 months than I have seen in 20 yrs. Often .025", .100", .200" and 1". (I hope I live through this job, tough on an old dog.) My CNC's get really upset when I tell them to go 300MM (inches) deep at 800 mm/m (inches). Crumb, they only do what you tell them.
Yep, CL works wonders. I'm actually scouring the net looking for some tires for my girlfriend's car, she won't have it too much longer so I don't want to buy new, but icy days are ahead and I don't want her goin' out and dying on me or anything
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). The Bias / direction of belts / reinforcement bindings can significantly be obvious on a tire with tall and flexible sidewalls. Try turning them around or better yet, cross rotating (just as a test... not great to do on a truck radial). Check wear patterns, ironically tires that wear quite flat across the face can be very 'Grabby', noticeable when crossing road diagonally, or on exit ramp.
and BLUEPRINTS 
(I haven't had a dimensioned drawing to work from since 1982)
