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Interior is in good shape. A tiny bit of rust on the bottom edge, nothing really noticeable, but paint is chipping in certain spots. I would probably need to full paint job to restore it to normal which would be costly.
I have kept up with maintenance
Make sure you get the ignition switch recall done. Otherwise it is likely a ticking time bomb.
But to the point, 220k is nothing. I laugh at people who say 200k is "high miles."
It's all about preventative maintenance and spending some time on forums for your car (almost every car model has a dedicated, enthusiast following that will let you know how to keep it running forever).
I've got a 95 Accord, it's 100mi away from 269k miles. Just replaced timing belt and water pump and spark plugs and it's good to go. Probably needs new brake pads here soon but otherwise it works fine.
Make sure you get the ignition switch recall done. Otherwise it is likely a ticking time bomb.
But to the point, 220k is nothing. I laugh at people who say 200k is "high miles."
It's all about preventative maintenance and spending some time on forums for your car (almost every car model has a dedicated, enthusiast following that will let you know how to keep it running forever).
I've got a 95 Accord, it's 100mi away from 269k miles. Just replaced timing belt and water pump and spark plugs and it's good to go. Probably needs new brake pads here soon but otherwise it works fine.
Keep it going but please get any recalls fixed.
Yep the recall was taken care of, but thanks for the warning. That's another reason why I am leaning against buying another Cobalt even though this one has treated me well.
Yep the recall was taken care of, but thanks for the warning. That's another reason why I am leaning against buying another Cobalt even though this one has treated me well.
Yeah GM has left a very bad taste in alot of people's mouths.
I read a very nice article over how this whole thing blew up...basically a girl who died, her father, a lawyer, a mechanic and an engineer all came together to piece the GM cover up. Good read if only I can find it.
But you have to look at your finances. Modern cars are built to last a good while so unless things are going wrong left and right, you should be good to go. You have to see if you can afford to get a new/newer car.
Go Toyota next time and we won't be having this discussion at the same point in the life of that car...I'm thinking....
99 Camry....215,000 miles and she just keeps going and going and going......
My Camry sucked. Got rid of it at 38K miles. Oddly I had a Mercury Sable that just would not die, much better than Camry. I bought it used with 9K miles on it, cheap at auction. Turns out prior owner was old as hills and could not drive anymore and I found out later on it has been in two accidents before I bought it where my car hit another vehicle.
At 10K it got hit by a pick-up truck tow hook, at around 12k a yellow cement pole my wife backed into and at around 20K going 70mph a huge 4x4 flew off a truck on I95 and went under car and blew out tire. Bottom of car looked like someone bashed it with a bat multiple times, finally a Land Cruiser SUV going 50 blew a light tboned on passenger side, blew out windows, bent frame, part of windshield came out, crushed mirror, two doors and fendor, dragged me ten feet down road and popped a tire off the rim. The force even crushed my glove dept door.
Cop wants to call for tow truck, as the the other vehicle the Landrover was being flat bedded away, I did not have towing coverage so I go I am going to try to get it to a legal spot and drive on the flat. Guess what I get to legal spot and like a mile from home I tell cop, I am not leaving this thing in front of someones house I am driving it home. He looked at me like I was insane. Next day, I pulled the plasic around tire free and realized tire was just off its bead from being dragged, pushed it back on rim with some tools, pumped it up and for fun took it for a drive, ran prefect. Car has only 36k and insurance company totalled it.
The sable and taurus station wagon could run circles around a camry. I doubt a Camry could take Five accidents and still run. My camry the motor mount collasped at 28K and door handle broke off at 30K and seatbelt broke at 32k. What a piece of flimsy junk.
The next owner of my 1996 camry did drive it another 100k miles till Hurricanne Sandy took it out.
The sable wagon is god ugly and sad I would never buy one again. But like me dodge dart with a slant six in HS you could not kill it but eventually it killed you.
Yeah GM has left a very bad taste in alot of people's mouths.
I read a very nice article over how this whole thing blew up...basically a girl who died, her father, a lawyer, a mechanic and an engineer all came together to piece the GM cover up. Good read if only I can find it.
But you have to look at your finances. Modern cars are built to last a good while so unless things are going wrong left and right, you should be good to go. You have to see if you can afford to get a new/newer car.
Yeah that was horrible. I saw the article and immediately took my car in to get it taken care of. I know people who drive Cruze's and they are reliable but I've all but ruled out getting another Cobalt. I've also thought about getting a Focus or Fusion but I like the looks/features/price of the Cruze better.
I can afford another car but then again, if I could get to 250K without a major problem, I can put the saved money (18 months of payments) toward a bigger down payment of the next car. That's a big "if" though.
My general rule is never buy over 150k miles, never keep over 250k... I would say drive it, but I would keep my eye out on an deal and jump on it.
I've bought many over 150k miles and never had any issues with them. (I got almost 300k out of a Ford Ranger)
It's more about maintenance. If the vehicle has been well maintained, the mileage is less important. At 10 years old with 220k miles I'd say it's had long commutes. If these are highway miles, they're easier on the vehicle and I wouldn't hesitate to keep it as long as all maintenance had been done on time.
I've bought many over 150k miles and never had any issues with them. (I got almost 300k out of a Ford Ranger)
It's more about maintenance. If the vehicle has been well maintained, the mileage is less important. At 10 years old with 220k miles I'd say it's had long commutes. If these are highway miles, they're easier on the vehicle and I wouldn't hesitate to keep it as long as all maintenance had been done on time.
Yep it's mostly highway miles.How did you like your Ranger? Any major issues? The is only list of vehicles to possibly buy. Did you have RWD or 4x4? Was it good in the snow/ice?
I've bought many over 150k miles and never had any issues with them. (I got almost 300k out of a Ford Ranger)
It's more about maintenance. If the vehicle has been well maintained, the mileage is less important. At 10 years old with 220k miles I'd say it's had long commutes. If these are highway miles, they're easier on the vehicle and I wouldn't hesitate to keep it as long as all maintenance had been done on time.
I also bought vehicles over 150k miles also, some near 200k. Rarely was anything wrong mechanically, but the rest of the car felt long in the tooth. For me, I see no reason to purchase a vehicle over 150k anymore. I usually buy single owner cars with history, most the cars I bought had around 120k miles with the major service already done (suspension/timing belt/etc), vs one at 80-90k that needs it. Once the car gets around 220-250k, I had it long enough and will start looking for a new car by then.
Formula I use = If a couple repairs, other than regular wear items, equal approximately what it would cost me to make a payment on a newer car (never brand new again) I will look at replacement. Last Mitsubishi lasted 12 years and ~260k with no repairs other than wear items such as tires and brakes. Only did the plugs and wires at 160k because it seemed like a good idea.
If you have some money set aside, or the financial ability to start doing so, I suggest you start putting the equivalent of a monthly payment in the bank each month. Then if the car dies, you have money available to go put down on the next vehicle. Since you commute a long distance as I have for years, it seems foolish to buy a brand new vehicle and eat that depreciation as you add miles quickly. Instead of paying new prices, I now buy about 2 years old with modest miles and pay 50-60% what the car was new, and still have a really decent car to drive. This way I can afford a little nicer car than the subcompact, but don't lose my shorts in the depreciation.
Examples: Bought 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer in '03 with 24k on it for $6200 and just dumped it last March with 265k on it as it was about to blow up from oil pump failing. Made it to the dealer and he offered $500 allowance on a 2 year old Fusion. I figure the Mitsu cost less than $50 a month for purchase/repairs.
I also bought 4 year old Suburban with 80k for approx 30% of new price last time gas prices spiked. Bought it out east (CT) when their gas hit $4+ per gallon. Now has 166k and only needed tires and a fuel pump. Total cost to own is less than $150 a month at this point for purchase and repair(other than wear items such as tires).
As long as the Suburban doesn't cost me any significant repairs I'll keep it. If it starts to cost a few hundred dollars on stuff failing here and there, I will dump it for a newer one. The bottom line is it is up to you what your comfort level is with the potential for a breakdown. Also, since it sounds like you are in the cold weather climate, you may want to keep the current car for a winter can and let the newer one stay out of the salt when possible.
Interior is in good shape. A tiny bit of rust on the bottom edge, nothing really noticeable, but paint is chipping in certain spots. I would probably need to full paint job to restore it to normal which would be costly.
I have kept up with maintenance
Honestly, I'd just let it keep rusting and drive it. It's just not worth the cost to repaint that car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lenny2412
It runs well. Brakes and battery were replaced last year. haven't had the alternator replaced or had any issues with it yet
Alternator is easy to do when it comes time. Best bet is to find an independent mechanic to save yourself some money or better yet do it yourself. An investment of a few hundred dollars in tools will save you thousands of dollars in the long run. Google and YouTube can guide you through basic repairs and maintenance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lenny2412
Same here...I was planning to get another car before it hit 200K miles, but looked around at some of the prices and the car was running good, so I just kept driving it. Noticed there seem to be better deals this time of the year and again thinking about buying.
IMO, I don't think you need to buy now because the deals are that good. Remember that we're coming up on the Christmas season and people will have their money tied up elsewhere. After Christmas, their money will be tied up to paying back credit cards. The car dealers know that the post Christmas season is slow so they'll be willing to deal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lenny2412
I have thought about doing this but didn't really seriously consider it, you have me reconsidering. My concern is that if I don't buy something now and the car breaks down then I would have to rent a car and be in a desperate position to buy when prices are higher.
I don't think prices will be higher. I think manufacturers will be trying to stimulate sales after Christmas.
Of course, that doesn't mean you can't window shop now.
But don't think that you're in a desperate situation. I think you're in better shape than you think you are.
Also, check out the Hyundai and Kia vehicles, I think with the mileage you put on, their 10 year/100,000 warranty would benefit you well.
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