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the new and old will quickly mix, leaving you with a better overall condition to the fluid.
This was my experience. I sucked out the old fluid from the master cylinder and replaced it with new three weekends in a row. Each week the fluid was darker than new, and the pedal got firmer with each change, too, so it must have mixed.
Brake fluid absorbs water. After a year it will have absorbed some, just the way it goes. Since its going to be messy anyway, do the job the right way instead of the half-assed wrong way.
And that is why there are good mechanics and hacks ! Just because someone owns some tools and claims to be a mechanic, that does not make them a GOOD mechanic.
You could not be more wrong. Fluid does not burn off moisture, it continues to absorb it. Even an opened bottle of fluid should be discarded after a while because it has absorbed moisture.
You did not do your customers any favors with your lack of maintenance.
Don
I tip my kripla to you Don. Because of injuries I have not made a living working on cars since the middle 80's. Since then there has been a switch by virtually all cars to 4 wheel disc brakes and metallic or ceramic pads. With the extra heat generated the boiling point of brake fluid is more critical. Temperatures created can boil moisture laden fluid. I should have known vapor produced would be in a sufficient amount to adversely affect break performance. That being said I still believe adding a good quality fluid as pads wear will keep it fresh enough for most drivers. Rebuilding or replacing calipers along with pads and replacing all fluid should be sufficient for most drivers. People who want their vehicles to run 1/2 million miles do extra maintenance. I once had a customer who wanted ALL of his light bulbs changed. I am mildly offended at being referred to as a hack. I started working on cars when we poured rod bearings and set clearance with shims. I have been trained by GM, Ford, Chrysler, Mazda, VW and a host of after market parts suppliers. I worked on Toyota, Mazda, Datsun, Honda German cars and British sports cars, in the 70's when it was hard to find someone who could. I have built Mazda rotory engines and 8,000 HP nitro burning Hemi's I'm a long way from a hack.
I'll stand by my original statement. I have never done it to anything I have owned or been asked to do it for anyone who saw it recommended in an owners manual.
Stacy
I'm with you. I have made a living working on cars since I was 12, I'm 70 now. I have owned cars since I was 17. I not only have never changed my break fluid but I have never changed it for anyone else. It is my opinion that any moisture in the fluid is evaporated by the temp of brake hardware
Ok in your opinion the moisture evaporates. You claim over 50 years of wrenching experience. How about you back up your opinion with some facts? Tell me if I am wrong.
How does the moisture escape? It doesn't. It remains trapped in the fluid.
What happens to a brake fluids boiling point with a high moisture content? The boiling point drops.
What happens when a brake fluids boiling point is exceeded? The brake pedal gets mushy and the car doesn't stop well.
I have never replaced the brake or PS fluid in any of my cars been driving since I was 15 now I'm 60 and have had over 40 or so cars and trucks in my life never a problem with brakes or PS.
That's probably why you went through 40 cars in your 45 or so years of driving. I kind of maintain mine and usually go about 3 or 4 years before trading it in (get a good price also) for a newer vehicle. But if I didn't maintain my vehicles, I probably would be wasting money on a replacement every 17 months like you.
While brake fluid absorbs moisture very easily, which can rust the system, the fluid contains anti-corrosion additives that are supposed to protect against this for several years (Ford once mentioned a long interval for its Motorcraft fluid, maybe 7-8 years), but some car makers specify a change interval of 2-4 years, and any car with ABS contains a $1,000+ device that you don't want to corrode. Also just draining the reservoir and filling it with new fluid won't clean out the brake system nearly as much as
doing that with the power steering system because brake fluid doesn't circulate throughout its system nearly as much as power steering fluid does. But when bleeding the brakes, don't push the brake pedal farther than about 1" or you may damage the rubber seals in the master cylinder.
Why wouldn't you want to crawl under the car?
By the way, changing the power steering fluid can reduce leaks because the fluid contains an additive to make the rubber seals swell up slightly, and I am referring to regular power steering fluid, not special fluid advertised for stopping leaks (avoid).
Last edited by larrymoencurly; 03-15-2015 at 08:58 AM..
That's probably why you went through 40 cars in your 45 or so years of driving. I kind of maintain mine and usually go about 3 or 4 years before trading it in (get a good price also) for a newer vehicle. But if I didn't maintain my vehicles, I probably would be wasting money on a replacement every 17 months like you.
I lived in metro Detroit were cars we're cheaper to get. I would drive mine then trade for something better. Back in the 70's and 80's cars in the metro Detroit area cars were cheaper and I always had a good paying job like I had when I worked for Chrysler corp. and I was single so money was no problem and gas was cheap as hell. Had plenty of V8's in my time.
Sorry... osmosis does not work like that.
Until the balance has equalized, overall, it will be a one way street.
Even when it has equalized, you still have water in the brake fluid and due to the nature of brake fluid, I could be wrong but my guess is that will continuously take in water.
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