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I find it hard to believe that 4 BRAND NEW rotors and 4 sets of pads are "warped".
Brake rotor warping is caused by rotor runout due to excessive rotor heat causing pad material to fuse to the rotor surface. On NEW brake rotors, this is possibly due to poor bedding in (or incorrect bedding in). Lug nut torque has minimal impact on rotor warping. It's mostly an overheated rotor and keeping pad pressure on the rotor.
Did the mechanic test drive the car afterwards?
New rotors should not be warped until someone warps them.
so far? only about 10 mi.
he tested it but not sure how in-depth. see his work order - he mentions the pulsating.
Customer sources cheap parts, likely ends up picking a brand the mechanic never would have recommended, and then they fail to no surprise. It's a gamble you take every time you bring in parts. I've brought in my own parts for ~90% of my vehicle repairs in the last 10 years. The first year or two I learned this lesson the difficult way--you have to source good parts.
FYI rotors can be easily warped in the first few miles of their life. You should always go easy on them for ~500 miles. If you or the mechanic romped on the brake pedal right after installation, it wouldn't surprise me that you have warped rotors.
Customer sources cheap parts, likely ends up picking a brand the mechanic never would have recommended, and then they fail to no surprise. It's a gamble you take every time you bring in parts. I've brought in my own parts for ~90% of my vehicle repairs in the last 10 years. The first year or two I learned this lesson the difficult way--you have to source good parts.
FYI rotors can be easily warped in the first few miles of their life. You should always go easy on them for ~500 miles. If you or the mechanic romped on the brake pedal right after installation, it wouldn't surprise me that you have warped rotors.
i did source good parts. but i understand your point.
It's a area on the rotor sthat looks like the shape of the pad, or looks similar to above? This is whan the brakes become overheated and someone rests their foot on the pedal and fuses pad material to the rotor surface.
The above picture is usually seen with pedal pulsation, and is the direct result of improper bedding procedure, or riding the brake pedal.
Those are good rotors. I run those on my Infiniti because, ironically, they resist warping a lot more than the OEM rotors I usually run. The OEM Nissan rotors would warp just backing out of the driveway. The Centric Premiums have been a lot more resistant.
By bringing in your own parts you have little recourse to pin this on the shop. If you had faulty parts, they are your parts. You get to deal with the headache. Had this been parts supplied by the shop, then you have a little more leverage to say they should have done something to ensure this was not pulsating when the vehicle left the shop. As someone else said, the shop did exactly what you asked. They put on the parts you asked them to install.
Taking away the shops opportunity to make a profit by bringing in your own parts is generally not well received unless this is a buddy or a long standing relationship. I would suggest for future reference that you get some quotes and know what the appropriate price should be for the high quality parts you want used, and let the shop source the parts and take the responsibility for the end result. You can tell by their estimate if the price is reasonable.
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