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Here's the story:
90 GMC 4X4. I bought it new; I am going to keep it.
Original compressor. Condensor replaced 10 years ago when I hit a deer. Original dryer.
I have had to recharge the system every year for the past few years, so something has been leaking during the winter, but not the summer. I charged it up 3 weeks ago and it did not hold the charge for even a few days. Worked fine for a few days.
This is a 25 year old compressor, so I am going to replace it. Dryer, too.
But I don't have a vacuum pump; no one has one to rent, either. I hate the thought of not pulling a hard vacuum on the system for a few hours after the work is done. But I don't want to spend 80$ on a pump I will use ONCE.
Anyone got any ideas on how I can do this? The only thing I have is a hand vacuum pump, and I'm wondering if there is a way I can use it.....?
Any comments from experienced AC people would be appreciated...
First of all, why are you replacing the compressor? All you've said so far is that the system is leaking. That means the seals, so they could be the seals on the compressor or somewhere else in the system.
Personally, I'd be checking for where the leak is before I went and replaced what could be a perfectly functioning compressor.
First of all, why are you replacing the compressor? All you've said so far is that the system is leaking. That means the seals, so they could be the seals on the compressor or somewhere else in the system.
Personally, I'd be checking for where the leak is before I went and replaced what could be a perfectly functioning compressor.
+1 Don't just throw parts at it. Properly diagnose things first.
I had a Ford that leaked, it was little rubber O rings where the hoses connected. A shop that does AC work will have an electronic sniffer that will pinpoint a leak exactly.
+1 for what Mckinney said. Did the refrigerant you charged it with have leak detector in it? You didn't mention anything about the evaporator, if it's original it could be leaking. The first step though is to find out exactly where the problem is so you can fix it once and be done.
First of all, why are you replacing the compressor? All you've said so far is that the system is leaking. That means the seals, so they could be the seals on the compressor or somewhere else in the system.
Personally, I'd be checking for where the leak is before I went and replaced what could be a perfectly functioning compressor.
That's actually a perfectly good question.
The system is 25 years old. It has stopped working, so I am rebuilding it. How long will it be before the compressor has a catastrophic failure and contaminates the entire system? No one knows. But if I replace the compressor now I can be reasonable sure that a catastrophic failure is some years away. The truck has 400,000 miles on it and I will ask it to keep running another 20 years. Chances are very great that the original compressor will not last that long.
As you say, the seals are leaking somewhere. Again, the chances are very great that the seals in the only moving part of the system (compressor) have failed. So if I replace the compressor there is a good chance that I will fix the entire problem. If not, it will not be expensive to pinpoint the seal that has failed.
Other functioning parts that have been replaced include battery, thermostat, water pump, Idler pulley, fan clutch, brake parts and fluid, and harmonic dampener.
All of this was started years ago when I read an article that pointed out that if an automobile was maintained like an aircraft they would last forever. So that's what I do. So far, so good.
Next year I am going to rebuild a perfectly functioning engine.
Looks like that's what I'll do.
I'll spend 80$, use it, put it back in the box and sell it on Ebay as slightly used. Maybe I'll get 50$ for it.
That works too. Although I can't see throwing parts at something. Put a can of refridgerant with a leak detector in it, for a couple of buck and a U/V light find out where the leak is. It could be the hoses. Or a fitting. One doesn't need a engine to fail on an airplane at 10,000ft but whats the worst that happens if your engine on a car fails? You end up on the shoulder of the highway?
Usually there is some warning of engine failure also, knocking, excessive smoke, etc.
on ebay, I thought it would be noisy and surprisingly it isn't and for $29.00 I just put it up on a shelf. I may have to reuse it this summer. The first time the condenser was leaking. I could actually tell by the oil leaking from it. Now it something else, a slow leak.
That works too. Although I can't see throwing parts at something. Put a can of refridgerant with a leak detector in it, for a couple of buck and a U/V light find out where the leak is. It could be the hoses. Or a fitting. One doesn't need a engine to fail on an airplane at 10,000ft but whats the worst that happens if your engine on a car fails? You end up on the shoulder of the highway?
Usually there is some warning of engine failure also, knocking, excessive smoke, etc.
on ebay, I thought it would be noisy and surprisingly it isn't and for $29.00 I just put it up on a shelf. I may have to reuse it this summer. The first time the condenser was leaking. I could actually tell by the oil leaking from it. Now it something else, a slow leak.
A vacuum pump that is not rated for microns and or used without a micron gage is useless. Your system must be evacuated to 500 microns and it must hold that vacuum to insure that moisture and non condensibles have been removed.
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