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I have an old 2002 Saturn SL1 single OHC that's on its last legs as it is in my view. Recently it has started sputtering very badly once it's warm, as in after about 5-9 minutes or so. When it's cold, it runs fine as always, but once cold, it sputters very badly to the point that you have to floor it to get it to do much of anything; it can barely go 30 mph on mild "rolling" hills and you have to rev the RPMs up to about 3500-4000 with each gear, with it hesitant to go on to the next gear at that point (all of those behaviors are much less prominent, if not downright non-existent, for about 7-odd minutes when you first get going in the morning).
One shop wanted $240 or so simply to change the spark plugs, the wires and replace the fuel filter and stated "from there we can see what else may need to be done." They did show me where the fuel filter seemed to be rather clogged up, but then wouldn't that cause it to run roughly even when cold? (We did leave the car parked for about 3 months but then put it back in service about a month ago, but it ran fine and we've obviously long since burned off the old gasoline.) I simply took the car back home without having the shop do anything, but I did replace the spark plugs and wires myself (yes, I made sure the spark plugs had the gap set, at 0.40) and I also replaced the MAP sensor as someone suggested. However, the behavior has continued. The shop did run diagnostic codes, they simply came back with "EKG" or something like that.
If this can be fixed simply by something such as the fuel filter or such, OK, but I don't want it to be that I replace the fuel filter, the fuel pump, the oxygen sensor, the catalytic converter (steps I've heard of others doing in this case) and then it STILL runs like this. I get the sense, though, at least from the 1st shop (I found another I intend to take it to), that you have to go through much of all of that or close to it to basically do a "process of elimination" to figure out the problem. Isn't it possible for them to simply pinpoint the exact cause and quote an estimate? I mean, with the car's "on its last legs" status, if it was something such as $100 or so for a fuel filter, that's fine, but if it involves spending like $700-1000 on 4 different things just to get there via "process of elimination," it's not worth it in that case.
The shop did run diagnostic codes, they simply came back with "EKG" or something like that.
EGR? A bad EGR valve could cause the symptoms you're seeing. So could a vacuum leak or bad 02 sensor. I wouldn't let them replace parts willy nilly. If the check engine light is on, get the codes being thrown. If not, your best bet would probably be a Saturn specific car forum.
Typically, when a vehicle is "cold" it runs off set params inside the computer. Once it warms up, it begins to take input from the various sensors and makes adjustments based off the info it gets.
WHen a car runs great cold, and poorly when warmed up, it tells me there might be an issue with one of the sensors, or the EGR sensor which is closed when the car is warming up.
My first instinct is what codes is the car giving off. You suggested EGR? So has that been cleaned or replaced? Because that would cause some of the symptons you are seeing.
Can you get an actual code number? IS the light on? If so drive by your local Autozone and ask them to pull the code number which is far more valueable than an arbitrary description like "O2 sensor" because I would then ask "well, is it a lean code, or rich code?". The number is much more valuable info
OP, if you are capable of doing it, change the fuel filter at least, if your plugs are old, if the wires are original, change them too. Typically these are DIY friendly tasks, requiring only a ratchet, extension, spark plug socket, and maybe a couple of screwdrivers. If the spark plugs have been in the head since the invention of dirt, they may be stuck, you want to take them loose maybe a half or quarter turn, then shoot some good penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster in next to the plugs, wait at least a half-hour, then pull them the rest of the way out. I like to put a little anti-seize compound on the plugs when installing.
Catching up on deferred maintenance does make troubleshooting easier.
OP, if you are capable of doing it, change the fuel filter at least, if your plugs are old, if the wires are original, change them too. Typically these are DIY friendly tasks, requiring only a ratchet, extension, spark plug socket, and maybe a couple of screwdrivers. If the spark plugs have been in the head since the invention of dirt, they may be stuck, you want to take them loose maybe a half or quarter turn, then shoot some good penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster in next to the plugs, wait at least a half-hour, then pull them the rest of the way out. I like to put a little anti-seize compound on the plugs when installing.
Catching up on deferred maintenance does make troubleshooting easier.
I have changed the spark plugs and wiring. I haven't changed the fuel filter, the one website recommended draining the fuel tank first whereas the repair shop said such wasn't necessary.
On my books, runs good cold/bad hot means air leak somewhere. Microcrack or gap somewhere. As it all warms up, metal expands, gap opens, and here ya go.
Do simple test. get brake cleaner spray. Start and warm up engine. Then give it shots of brake cleaner, going in sections around the engine top section. When engine stalls, that's where air leak is.
I also replaced fuel filter today and although it's a bit better it's still acting up somewhat. I've taken it to another place for a diagnostic.
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