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How much do you think that maintenance records, by themselves, contribute to the sale price of the vehicle? Body condition, miles being constant.
The more I think about it, the impact is more likely on the speed of sale than the price of the sale. It add some confidence to the quality of the car, but most people are still going to be thinking about the KBB value or how they could maybe get it cheaper from a scummy car lot. Just talking about the average buyer getting a commuter, not car enthusiasts.
Yup. It can be the difference between bringing top dollar and being lowballed out of fear that no maintenance was done. So I keep records of when I did the work and receipts for the parts used.
If it’s a common car, people are just going to buy from someone at the lowest price with the least hassle. Show them a bunch of dealership receipts and they’re probably much happier than looking through a bunch of Autozone receipts and looking through your garage trying to evaluate you as a person.
If it’s a rare car, they don’t really have a lot of other options anyway. They’ll probably just make you an offer based on how long it’s been on the market. My last car was sold to an out of state buyer. They asked about maintenance records, I told them I was second owner and had some records but not all, and they bought it anyway without even looking at those records.
It doesn't matter who changes the oil. Just take a sample and look at the color. Even if someone just changed the oil, I would start the engine and let it run then look at the oil. Even fresh oil can show residue from badly worn engine.
Then check the spark plugs. A lot of people don't do tuneups at all and it will show up in many places.
If it’s a common car, people are just going to buy from someone at the lowest price with the least hassle. Show them a bunch of dealership receipts and they’re probably much happier than looking through a bunch of Autozone receipts and looking through your garage trying to evaluate you as a person.
If it’s a rare car, they don’t really have a lot of other options anyway. They’ll probably just make you an offer based on how long it’s been on the market. My last car was sold to an out of state buyer. They asked about maintenance records, I told them I was second owner and had some records but not all, and they bought it anyway without even looking at those records.
People like seeing paper trails. At least when I sold a car people were appreciative that I had records. I’ve sold all my cars with a mix of dealer and personal receipts. All people wanted to see was that there was some maintenance and that you can back up what you state as the seller.
If you told me that the engine was rebuilt but had no proof I wouldn’t believe you. Some people don’t know or care. That’s on them. If I look at a car and there owner has no records at all I’ll walk away because most likely reason they have no records is because they are making up stuff. If you are that much of a airhead and have no records you’re probably as much of a airhead in maintenance.
The same reason I run car fax. It at least gives me the rundown of owners. So I dint get the I’m the 1st/2nd owner when they are really the 4/5th. There are just too many bs scammers out there.
It doesn't matter who changes the oil. Just take a sample and look at the color. Even if someone just changed the oil, I would start the engine and let it run then look at the oil. Even fresh oil can show residue from badly worn engine.
Then check the spark plugs. A lot of people don't do tuneups at all and it will show up in many places.
Anybody who shows up in my driveway to look at a vehicle, pulls the dipstick and "diagnoses" the oil, based on color, has done an excellent job of self-identify as a dolt who is wasting my time. Tell my that your next step is to pull a plug, and I will point out that your ACTUAL next step is to get back in your car and leave.
BTW, I just sold a sixteen year old Silverado, out of my driveway, for OVER clean dealer retail, based on it being extemely well cared for, WITH extensive maintenance records since new. The was at least one back up buyer, and as horrible as it sounds, the oil would of not been acceptable to any of you imaginary experts. It was fresh, with low miles, and would of generated a glowing report if I mailed a sample to a lab, BUT it was black..............................oh, the humanity.
Clean new fluids are a crucial part of purchasing any used car. NOT the only factor by any means.
IF the fluids are dirty or low - folks should walk away. It's that simple.
NOW finding a used car with new and clean fluids is NOT the only factor. It is the FIRST step only.
Some get all up in a fussy and conclude that fluids are the ONLY factor. FAR from it.
If the oil is down on dipstick or oil is black - walk - as car is burning oil or leaking oil. If the automatic transmission fluid is dirty and/or down - walk. It's that simple. These are the FIRST steps.
What about "lifetime" automatic transmission fluid? Well, what does the owners manual state?
The last vehicle I checked that had "lifetime" automatic transmission fluid with no dip stick - the owners manual stated change "lifetime" automatic transmission fluid at 60,000 miles of "hard" use and 100,000 miles of "normal" use.
A little common sense goes a long way.
I will look at the ground where Car is parked. Drops of Oil will also tell something. I agree that they are first step.
I'd prefer the car w/ oil changed by the owner. I've known at least three people who had cars damaged by the quicky lube shops. Two lost engines because they forgot to replace the drain plug, and one had the drain plug cross threaded.
The quickie shops are actually less convenient IMO. I have to drive there and sit and wait (possibly in line). I can do it at home in 10-15 minutes, even using extreme care to ensure that all steps are completed. The lack of convenience could lead a car owner to putting off oil changes. Last but not least, the DIY guy is more likely to use a more premium oil.
Honestly, when buying a car there are tell-tale signs to look for that it's been cared for without needing an extensive paper trail.
If I show up and your brake fluid is black, the engine coolant is a nice shade of brown/rust, your brake rotors are grooved and other obvious signs of neglect, it really doesn't matter to me that you have a stack of papers showing you got your oil changed every 3500 miles.
Honestly, when buying a car there are tell-tale signs to look for that it's been cared for without needing an extensive paper trail.
If I show up and your brake fluid is black, the engine coolant is a nice shade of brown/rust, your brake rotors are grooved and other obvious signs of neglect, it really doesn't matter to me that you have a stack of papers showing you got your oil changed every 3500 miles.
Correct just because you have proof that the oil was changed every 3500 miles what about other wear items, like brakes, if rwd differential fluid, antifreeze, fuel injection service, I also take a magnet and a dishrag and see if any bondo or fiberglass repair was done on vehicle, wrap magnet in cloth and Ron against the body especially the rocker panel and wheel wells if magnet falls of its a see you later.
Honestly, when buying a car there are tell-tale signs to look for that it's been cared for without needing an extensive paper trail.
If I show up and your brake fluid is black, the engine coolant is a nice shade of brown/rust, your brake rotors are grooved and other obvious signs of neglect, it really doesn't matter to me that you have a stack of papers showing you got your oil changed every 3500 miles.
I think we’re all talking about a little more than oil change receipts. My diesel oil is black pretty much right after a oil change. You wouldn’t be able to tell it’s condition from looking at it. But yes you can tell if a car was maintained by looking at other components. Also some people are price driven no matter what you have done to the car because to them it’s the I got a deal mentality. They will “save” $1000 on the initial purchase only to dump $2000 in repairs when they could of bought a repaired model for $1000 initially saved
When I get the people who want to make offers over the phone i automatically dismiss them as one wasters. I simply tell them I don’t take offers over the phone. You’re obviously price driven and this vehicle isn’t for you.
Ultimately I don’t care if the buyer buys my car. I take care of my cars, they are reliable and rarely do I have a breakdown. About 4 months ago I had a wheel hub suddenly fail on my truck after 160,000 miles. I tore the whole front axle apart and replaced both hubs, ball joints, axle shaft u joints steering brakes and rotors. About 1200 in parts. On two trucks. I don’t really have to worry about ball joints or hubs for 60/100,000 miles. I’ll periodically check them but I replaced with Ford factory, Dana and Timken parts. So that won’t be a issue for a long while. Granted I DIY so the costs are drastically reduced but all the work I did could be done with hand tools. The specialty tools were a $70 ball joint kit and a $60 seal press. The u joints can be done by hand or if theire frozen you may need to have them pressed out. Even then it still beats $4000 at a dealer for each truck.
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