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No. You're just wasting your time. Pumping vs constant pressure isn't going to make a difference in heat transferred to the rotor.
One piece of advice i'd give average car drivers is to not sit with their foot on the brake pedal after a long stop. For example, coming off the highway at 80MPH down a long off-ramp and sitting at a red light at the bottom. The act of heating up your rotor and then sitting still with the pads clamped can sometimes cause cheaper pads to actually fuse some material to the rotor face. When you begin to move, this material shears off and stays stuck to the rotor and contributes to the phenomenon known as "warped rotors" or pad imprinting (good pics to see what material transfer looks like). I usually recommend either stopping short and letting the car slowly roll forward while waiting for the light to go green, or putting as little brake pressure as possible on or shifting to neutral.
Now at ten years and 140K miles on our original pads and rotors. I doubt we will ever need brake service.
You'll want to get a brake fluid flush every 2 years or so. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water, which lowers the boiling point, efficacy, and water would cause damage (rust and corrosion) to the cylinders.
WTF!!??! I'm Clearly doing something wrong, sold my last car, a 2001, with just over 300k miles on it and never touched the brakes. Well, I touched them every 5k tire rotation and flushed brake fluid every other year, but no pads or rotors... still had ~30% of their life left when sold.
Sure hope the new car goes Way more than 25k miles before needing brakes. I'm already disappointed with the pathetic choices available today in the same price point/category as my 2001, still wish I could have just bought that same car again, but brand new.
But I'll keep my eyes peeled for faster wear.
Yep, 142,000 on my pickup and still plenty of pad left.
My dad always complained that my mother wore out brakes faster than he thought possible. It was her jackrabbit driving habits. She would never slow down for a red light, just drive full tilt until the last 50 feet and clamp on the brakes. It was the same way coming off of a freeway. She would never ease off to the posted exit ramp speed, just go full bore to the stop sign at the end. That really shreds the brake pads.
I wouldn't be surprised if at least 90% of all replacement rotors installed are not OEM parts. In my case. The best rotors Rockauto carries for my CRV cost a third of what the dealer wants at their parts counter. As for thickness and having rotors turned, for a lot of shops and DIYers, it's something that you did in the past, but not anymore. I lived in an area with 40K people, and at least five years ago, the last guy who turned rotors for walk in customers stopped offering the service. There are still repair shops that have the machinery, but it doesn't get used often anymore. A good friend of mine works in a shop that still has a brake lathe. He noted that the Chinese drove the cost of replacement rotors down to a point where you can't waste your time cutting rotors. No different that rebuilding a lot of parts. You can't waste time rebuilding a CV axle, when you can grab a remanufactured one, off the shelf, for fifty bucks.
I have been told that almost no parts are OEM parts. When the manufacturer finishes a model run they sell the dies to an aftermarket manufacturer.
I have been told that almost no parts are OEM parts. When the manufacturer finishes a model run they sell the dies to an aftermarket manufacturer.
Wrong automakers never resell their trademark dies or molds. They are stored and then destroyed I don’t know were you got that information. Automakers hav huge storage warehouses with dies and molds that art no longer needed for making parts. Even the dies and molds that outside supplies use are the property of the automaker.
I have been told that almost no parts are OEM parts. When the manufacturer finishes a model run they sell the dies to an aftermarket manufacturer.
Maybe it's me, but I can't make heads or tails of your comment. There is a dealer network for any vehicle sold in the US. Every one of those dealers has a parts counter, and sells OEM replacement parts. The Original Equipment Manufacturers source them from other manufacturers, but they are sold as OEM replacement parts, made to their standards and specifications. The fact that GM doesn't manufacture a brake rotor in a factory they own, is meaningless. Generally, it takes little effort to find an alternative supplier with OEM quality, or better, replacement parts for 1/2 or less of the dealer cost.
Interesting fact. I had a customer who was the executive in charge of OEM replacement part purchasing for a major class 8 truck manufacturer. He stated that he never in his career, found a part on the shelf at a dealer, that sold to the end user, for less than eight times the manufacturer's wholesale cost. This resulted in battles, as things like turbos, shipped from the OEM to the dealer, costs the end used 4-5X as much as the same turbo, direct shipped from the turbo manufacturer. The manufacturer was constantly playing a cat and mouse game, with the dealers, as they tried to sneak aftermarket parts in, under the radar.
Maybe it's me, but I can't make heads or tails of your comment. There is a dealer network for any vehicle sold in the US. Every one of those dealers has a parts counter, and sells OEM replacement parts. The Original Equipment Manufacturers source them from other manufacturers, but they are sold as OEM replacement parts, made to their standards and specifications. The fact that GM doesn't manufacture a brake rotor in a factory they own, is meaningless. Generally, it takes little effort to find an alternative supplier with OEM quality, or better, replacement parts for 1/2 or less of the dealer cost.
Interesting fact. I had a customer who was the executive in charge of OEM replacement part purchasing for a major class 8 truck manufacturer. He stated that he never in his career, found a part on the shelf at a dealer, that sold to the end user, for less than eight times the manufacturer's wholesale cost. This resulted in battles, as things like turbos, shipped from the OEM to the dealer, costs the end used 4-5X as much as the same turbo, direct shipped from the turbo manufacturer. The manufacturer was constantly playing a cat and mouse game, with the dealers, as they tried to sneak aftermarket parts in, under the radar.
The fact that aftermarket parts exist for current models still in production tells me that the aftermarket companies don't need the OEM dies to successfully make replacement parts that consumers will buy.
WTF!!??! I'm Clearly doing something wrong, sold my last car, a 2001, with just over 300k miles on it and never touched the brakes. Well, I touched them every 5k tire rotation and flushed brake fluid every other year, but no pads or rotors... still had ~30% of their life left when sold.
Sure hope the new car goes Way more than 25k miles before needing brakes. I'm already disappointed with the pathetic choices available today in the same price point/category as my 2001, still wish I could have just bought that same car again, but brand new.
But I'll keep my eyes peeled for faster wear.
Do you drive a manual and long distances with little braking? That’s a very high number of miles out of a set of rotors and pads. Unless you have the really old asbestos brake pads. But hey if you can do it that’s great. I’ve never been able to. The most I was ever able to get out of my brakes and rotors was 40,000 but I have heavy vehicles and I have stop and go traffic. My wife was able to consistently get 55k out of her cars. That’s about as much as I know anyone to get. At least first hand.
I have gotten 90,000 miles out of tires that were 50,000 mike wear rated. But I kept the psi up spec rotated and balanced and kept the suspension and steering up on wear items.
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