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Coming back from town the other day and I noticed my car felt like it was driving like It was towing a boat anchor. I look down at the gas and the battery light was on ABS light as on as well. The DRL “ daytime running light “was no longer on it stays on unless you turn the lights on all the way.
At the point I had assumed that she had no lights but didn’t want to stop and look. Being less then a mile from home I wanted to get back. No check engine light was on. I can’t say how long those lights were on because the sun was behind me and shining on the dash and I wasn’t able to see them. I stopped to see if I could hear anything new going on. The car lurched forward a bit but it didn’t die. Got home looked around at the lights and there were no lights on. About a couple of minutes later the car stalled and died and it shook from underneath the engine bay all the way back to the exhaust.
We replaced the battery the old one was dead the car does start however after a few minutes you can hear it start to die. The check engine light never came on. The ABS was on as well as the battery light and brake light too... The alternator we tested it was pulling 14.5 amps . We checked the ground wire and found no tearing any where on the cable.
The car in question is a 2007 Subaru outback with the 2.5 non -turbo.
Coming back from town the other day and I noticed my car felt like it was driving like It was towing a boat anchor. I look down at the gas and the battery light was on ABS light as on as well. The DRL “ daytime running light “was no longer on it stays on unless you turn the lights on all the way.
At the point I had assumed that she had no lights but didn’t want to stop and look. Being less then a mile from home I wanted to get back. No check engine light was on. I can’t say how long those lights were on because the sun was behind me and shining on the dash and I wasn’t able to see them. I stopped to see if I could hear anything new going on. The car lurched forward a bit but it didn’t die. Got home looked around at the lights and there were no lights on. About a couple of minutes later the car stalled and died and it shook from underneath the engine bay all the way back to the exhaust.
We replaced the battery the old one was dead the car does start however after a few minutes you can hear it start to die. The check engine light never came on. The ABS was on as well as the battery light and brake light too... The alternator we tested it was pulling 14.5 amps . We checked the ground wire and found no tearing any where on the cable.
The car in question is a 2007 Subaru outback with the 2.5 non -turbo.
I'm assuming you meant 14.5 volts, not amps.
What you are describing sounds like it is not charging. That would make the ABS and other lights come on.
Charge the battery fully, then drive it to the nearest auto parts place and have them check the electrical system...if not too far away.
Was the battery you replaced it with new, or just one you had laying around?
Your car's ignition system needs a minimum of 9 volts or so to keep running. Once the battery got below that, it started to misfire and eventually die.
The alternator on those is a breeze to change...right there on top.
I'm assuming you meant 14.5 volts, not amps.
What you are describing sounds like it is not charging. That would make the ABS and other lights come on.
Charge the battery fully, then drive it to the nearest auto parts place and have them check the electrical system...if not too far away.
Was the battery you replaced it with new, or just one you had laying around?
Your car's ignition system needs a minimum of 9 volts or so to keep running. Once the battery got below that, it started to misfire and eventually die.
The alternator on those is a breeze to change...right there on top.
Yes sorry amps. The battery is brand new, once the old battery was replaced we saw that the battery was almost 3 years old. My wife thought she had replaced it last year. Tomorrow I’m going to remove the negative cable while it’s running to see if it’s bad. It tested good but I’ll know more tomorrow.
How much have you run it since you replaced the battery? On many cars of that era all the systems reset themselves if the electrical system goes completely dead such as if you remove the battery, so you sometimes just have to let it run until they figure out where they're supposed to be.
That being said, a properly functioning alternator will give your car all the juice you need when the car is running without help from the battery, so chances are good that the alternator is toast. if you tested the alternator on the car with the battery in it the voltmeter was probably pulling the voltage from the battery.
How much have you run it since you replaced the battery? On many cars of that era all the systems reset themselves if the electrical system goes completely dead such as if you remove the battery, so you sometimes just have to let it run until they figure out where they're supposed to be.
That being said, a properly functioning alternator will give your car all the juice you need when the car is running without help from the battery, so chances are good that the alternator is toast. if you tested the alternator on the car with the battery in it the voltmeter was probably pulling the voltage from the battery.
We haven’t drove it at all since replacing the battery. We have let it run sitting in the driveway for 10-15 minutes and it hasn’t died yet. However the brake light and the battery light has come on again. So at this point I think we will have to take another look at the alternator.
Yes sorry amps. The battery is brand new, once the old battery was replaced we saw that the battery was almost 3 years old. My wife thought she had replaced it last year. Tomorrow I’m going to remove the negative cable while it’s running to see if it’s bad. It tested good but I’ll know more tomorrow.
That test is not very accurate at all and also places expensive computer electronics in jeopardy.
I'd also hope they meant the alternator was putting out 14.5 volts. If it's pulling 14.5 volts, something's seriously wrong.
I'd hook up my scanner to it to see what the ECM thinks the voltage is. Sounds like perhaps there's a mismatch in there somewhere.
Could also quite possibly be one of those adaptive alternators that the computer controls the output on, perhaps it's not responding to the computer commands.
I'd be a tad surprised at that on a 2007 Subaru, but..
I think I would read out that ABS code tho. Just to see what it says.. I suspect it's a false positive from a voltage issue, but.. Always the chance that it *IS* the voltage issue. I might also hook up an ammeter to see what current draw is. Don't start it, just Key on, engine off. See if there's any abnormal draw in that state.
Something is triggering the Charging system light (I refuse to call it a battery light) .. Also, after battery replacement.. DRLs working properly? A headlight with an issue certainly could cause a hellacious draw. Kinda more expect THAT much to pop a fuse, but.. Checking the lights with the vehicle not running, and with it running.. Maybe that DRL light not being on is a clue.
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