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If I were going to try repairing a fuel tank, I'd go with "J-B Weld", available in almost any automotive parts store, or hardware store. Good stuff. It's epoxy-based, but has powdered iron (or steel) mixed in it, for strength. The area to be repaired should be thoroughly cleaned of all oil, dirt, and grease, then "burnished" with steel wool.
If I were going to try repairing a fuel tank, I'd go with "J-B Weld", available in almost any automotive parts store, or hardware store. Good stuff. It's epoxy-based, but has powdered iron (or steel) mixed in it, for strength. The area to be repaired should be thoroughly cleaned of all oil, dirt, and grease, then "burnished" with steel wool.
Bud
Actually, that's one of the worst things you can do to prep for an epoxy repair. You don't want a polished surface, you want as rough as possible surface, such as would be generated by sand blasting (black beauty, garnet, or other angular abrasives are best) or coarse sanding. A three-mil profile is the standard of the industry, and it's spec'ed in just about every epoxy manufacturer's tech data sheets.
Products like JBWeld depend upon that rough surface for their bonding to the substrate. Smooth steel to epoxy will have a much lower "pull" strength bond by test.
sunsprit, thank you for your detailed and experience based advice on this subject. I am saving this info as I am often looking for the best 'quick fix' since I am frugal (read cheap) and often need to get my thingamagig back in action with out serious down time.
I also applaud you for your patience in refuting less 'valuable' advice after you have spent so much time going into such detail.
Actually, that's one of the worst things you can do to prep for an epoxy repair. You don't want a polished surface, you want as rough as possible surface, such as would be generated by sand blasting (black beauty, garnet, or other angular abrasives are best) or coarse sanding. A three-mil profile is the standard of the industry, and it's spec'ed in just about every epoxy manufacturer's tech data sheets.
Products like JBWeld depend upon that rough surface for their bonding to the substrate. Smooth steel to epoxy will have a much lower "pull" strength bond by test.
That's exactly what I meant: rough up the surface, not "polish it smooth". Guess I chose the wrong word. I use coarse steel wool to remove loose rust, and it will scratch up the steel surface a little, allowing the J-B to stick...
That's exactly what I meant: rough up the surface, not "polish it smooth". Guess I chose the wrong word. I use coarse steel wool to remove loose rust, and it will scratch up the steel surface a little, allowing the J-B to stick...
Bud
Roughing up the surface, correct.
Using steel wool, even the coarse grade ... may remove loose rust ... but, in fact, does exactly what you mentioned. It burnishes the surface, which is a smoothing process.
Much better to use coarse emery cloth, coarse sandpaper, or sandblast with angular abrasive to that 3-mil profile to near white metal. Sometimes, all you can do in the field is wire brush and file a surface to clean metal, and then "ding" the surface so that it's very rough by hammering lightly with a very coarse file.
A simple way to tell if you're achieving a truly rough surface is to wipe it with a clean cotton shop rag ... if it drags on the surface and grabs fibers out of the rag, then it's a "rough" surface. If the rags slides across the surface and the surface stays clean, it's smooth.
The final cleaning should be done with solvent and allowed to air dry instead of wiping the surface dry with the rag that will leave the fibers. As mentioned, I like to use acetone because it's fast, penetrates, and will remove diesel residue. Sometimes a mixture of denatured alcohol and acetone will penetrate and clean better. As always, use the solvents with care ... good ventilation is essential ... proper fire safety precautions, and respect to the toxicity of the solvents. I don't even "blow dry" surfaces for the final cleaning because of the risk of oil or water in the compressed air supply or hoses which could contaminate all my cleaning efforts.
I just repaired a150 gal. Diesel tank with a quarter inch hole in the bottom seam with over 100 gallons of fuel in the tank..I have been over 500 miles and it is still dry. I used Jb weld stick )($6.00) at auto parts store..follow directions on tube and it will work! I couldn't believe it...fuel was pouring out of the hole and I pressed the JB into the hole and held pressure on it for about 3 minutes until it started to harden and it stopped leaking!!! Good luck!
Last edited by Randy12; 04-29-2012 at 08:11 PM..
Reason: Need to add that this is an aluminum tank....fyi
I've had a couple start leaking where road grime collects under the strap. Both times I used a two-part epoxy that looks like a bar of clay; I don't remember the name but I think there are multiple manufacturers of it. The outside is gray and the center is black. You just cut off the amount you wand and wad it together to activate it, then stick it on the leak. Bush off any loose scale first, other than that no surface prep is necessary. Both times it fixed the leak long-term. It would probably be better if the fuel level was below the leak, but one of the tanks I fixed was dripping when I put it on and it worked fine.
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