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That looks pretty cool, not only for the conserved resources but also because it appears to be in a very convenient location.
The question I have is this, though: Isn't it twice as dirty and messy to remove and dispose of the cartridge as it is to remove and dispose of an entire oil filter?
Why?
Open the top, whip it out and have a bag conveniently ready to slip it into instantly. Slip in the new one and done.
The only new thing is the engine casting. This set up traps crud inside the element not outside. Can type does the same thing. I do wonder about cleaning the cast on container though, since a can type only has the surface to clean if you do, and the container of the element types can be washed in a cleaning tank.
Fram is no longer Fram, just the name is the same. My person opinion of these name only Fram is they are trash new in the box. I had 2 fail in a turbo engine car and I didn't like that a bit. I boguth 2 new, and the first failed in a few moments so I installed the other and it failed in the same time, leaving me stranded. The gauge went from full BAR to zip twice. I had to borrow a ride to get another not Fram filter.
The cartridge style in my earlier Ecotec 2.2 required a big-ass socket (36mm?), and a universal joint for your ratchet. Due to the way it was somewhat in-set, it was very easy to round off that plastic nut on the top. You also had to change the O-ring on the outside of that plastic casing. I personally can't stand that design, but Euro cars have been using it for what, 25-30 years now? There's really nothing cutting-edge about it.
I much prefer the old style filter that hangs downward near the oil pan. You break it loose first, let it drip out for a minute. Then spin it as fast as you can, bail out, and then it all drops on the pan. If you have a big enough pan, the oil flung out will be caught. Let it drip out, clean the face plate and install new filter. Cheap and easy.
Cads had the oil filter in the open engine compartment during the 50's...right on top next to the engine. I had the Frantz TP 2 ply tissue that I replaced every 1000 miles and added a qt of oil. Never pulled the pan plug for over 3-1/2 yrs. The oil was always honey colored...just loved that setup.
My old 1966 International Scout had a cartridge filter. You always ended handling more grease and oil because you need to inspect and lubricate the housing. Filters are still the same price.
I still prefer canister type. Less mess. Hands stay oil free .
Really. Every one I'v eever dealt with dumped oil on you the moment you broke it free and were spinning it off, and then dumped a buch as you dropped it into the catchbasin, wher eyou had to get it out in order to dispose of the oil anyhow. My BMW cartrige is mess-free, and I don't even have to wear gloves.
The worst were my old rotary engine Mazdas where the oil filter was a canister type, up on the top of the engine, upside-down (shown at the botom of the picture):
oil would dump everywhere when you took it off, and you could NOT pre-fill the canister with oil like normal or it would dump all over when you flipped it upside down to try and screw on.
In the later Mazdas it got worse, as the filter was harder to get at (though still on top). Again, in the lower right hand corner of the pic:
I still prefer canister type. Less mess. Hands stay oil free .
Haha... wouldn't matter for me either way. If the oil is being changed that means all fluids are being checked, chassis is getting lubed, u-joints are getting lubed, tires are getting rotated, etc. Bound to get a little dirty no matter what!
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