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Ok, so I have been slowly introducing fish into this tank.
First there was a platy.
Then 2 zebra danios.
Water looks perfect. Everyone seems happy. Got my test kit - a ok.
Added two glofish danios - one red and one yellow.
So now my 10 gallon is stocked to its limit, I think.
One red wag tail platy
4 danios
5 fake plants
2 rocks
1 treasure chest
But it feels very empty. The fish stay near the top or in the middle (platy does sleep in his treasure chest). Everyone is very active and playful, but it feels like the bottom half of the tank is unused. Makes it feel very empty.
Add some Cories. They really are more a positive than a negative to your bio-load. they are mainly bottom dwellers but they re all levels during feeding.
With your stock you can add about 5 cories to that without being overstocked.
Wouldn't that be 20 inches of fish?
In a 10 gallon tank?
I was thinking cories, but they like to school, and I really don't know that I can add more than 2...
Wouldn't that be 20 inches of fish?
In a 10 gallon tank?
I was thinking cories, but they like to school, and I really don't know that I can add more than 2...
Cories don't grow that fast. Got some in a 65g and they are still about an inch or less.
You have 5 inches of fish now. 5 cories would go in there no problem
There are pygmy cories that stay very small that would be good for your tank.
I will say I wouldn't go with danios in a tank that size. Danios do best in a tank that is at least 4ft long because they are very very active swimmers. I know they can survive in smaller tanks and probably will do just fine, but I always go with slower fish for smaller tanks.
I wouldn't suggest a mystery snail- they need lower temps then tropical fish and will die younger that they should in a warmer tank. Actually, I think a good solution to your problem would be shrimp. You can add a number of shrimp in a small tank because their bioload is low- they're actually great scavengers and help keep the water clear. They're active and very interesting to watch. You can have ghost shrimp (just be aware they won't hatch eggs without salt in the water) or cherry shrimp.
I have a huge mess of shrimp (and more just keep breeding) and they're pretty much my favorite part of the tank. They'll even take food out of my hand
honestly that 1"of fish per galln rule is only a GUIDELINE...
the little danios wont get more than an inch while the platy would hit 2 so even so your currently only at 6" in 10 gals.
now i wouldnt add much more in the "upper/middle" zones but some low output bottom dwellers would be fine in terms of space AND in terms of bio-load. id go with either a group fo 5 corydora, pygmis are nice as are jullis and false juliii (the spotted cory tend to stay smaller than the emerald and albinos)
or a group of shrimp...
now would this push you over teh 1" per gallon "rule" yes...BUT again its more of a guidline...and both cory and shirmp are lowoutput clea up crew so as long as your tank is healthy you shoudlnt have ANY problems.
i overload MOST of my takes eventually, and have never had any issues as long as i keep track of my parameters...
Now im not saying go adding another 5 danios or platy ect...they would occupy the same zone and make it crowded...but by adding some small lower level occupants you shoudlnt have any problems.
honestly that 1"of fish per galln rule is only a GUIDELINE...
the little danios wont get more than an inch while the platy would hit 2 so even so your currently only at 6" in 10 gals.
I think the 1 inch per gallon is good for beginners because it avoids them overstocking. But yeah, once you start to know more about fish, this rule becomes much less important. Your main concern ends up being your zones, relative bioloads, and schooling habits. Also, even with the 1 inch rule many fish are listed by their max. size, which few individuals reach. Plus there is a difference between 1 inch of a flat/long fish like a danio and a fish shaped like a platy in terms of how much water volume they actually take up
There are certain fish that have a huge relative bioload for their size such as plecos. And then there are fish and critters that have a very low relative bioload like shrimp.
To the OP though, you want to add new fish gradually- I wouldn't add any cories for a few weeks to give your bacteria time to adjust to the current fish.
Edited to add to the OP...I would advise doing frequent tests and doing a water change weekly. A smaller tank like a 10 gallon is actually much more unstable in the parameters than a larger tank. A little extra food one night can make a big difference because the ammonia and nitrites don't have as much water volume to 'thin' them out. This is also why I don't advise mystery snails in a smaller tank...if they die, they can cause a big ammonia spike that can take the entire tank out. You might possibly consider adding a small secondary tank with some java moss and various isopods and critters. It acts like a biological filter as is commonly used on a salt water tank....plus it's fun to watch. This made a big difference for my 10 gallon tank when I was struggling with green slime issues (which my larger tank never developed.)
No, I wouldn't add more fish for a long time.
I have been adding fish slowly.
The 25% water change is once a week with a full gravel vacuum.
First I scrub the inner walls for algae - though since this one bloom, I have not seen any at all.
The water is crystal.
Here's a weird question for y'all.
You know the water testing kit?
Well, if I get an abnormal parameter/number, what do I do about it?
Change the water more often?
No, I wouldn't add more fish for a long time.
I have been adding fish slowly.
The 25% water change is once a week with a full gravel vacuum.
First I scrub the inner walls for algae - though since this one bloom, I have not seen any at all.
The water is crystal.
Here's a weird question for y'all.
You know the water testing kit?
Well, if I get an abnormal parameter/number, what do I do about it?
Change the water more often?
Basically, yes. A water change is a better solution most of the time than adding chemicals.
So let's say you test and your ammonia is high. Do a water change, wait a few hours, then test again (you might have natural ammonia in your tap water, which is why you want to wait a bit.) That should lower it. But this is an indication that your cycling isn't finished or something is wrong in terms of your bioload/bacteria colony and you need to continue testing/doing water changes daily until it corrects itself or you figure out the base problem.
Keep in mind that high ammonia and nitrites cause damage to your fishes' gills and organs...it isn't just a number, it's an indication that real physical harm is being done to your fish. You have hardier fish, but that just means they can tolerate toxic levels for a longer period of time before permanent damage, not that they aren't being harmed at all.
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