Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
As has been pointed out - this is the worst time of the year to plant anything in the south. If you want to give your trees a fighting chance - arrange the surface soil around the root ball like a big cup - that will hold water (build up the edges of the "cup" - with your hands). And then drench the roots by filling the cup perhaps every other day (or every day if your temps are in the mid to high 90's or 100's - unless you have clay type soils that hold a lot of water). Do not apply any fertilizer. Just try to keep those thirsty suckers alive until the temps are cooler.
BTW - did you plant the trees at the correct depth? The root ball level should be at the soil level - and optimally - a bit higher. Robyn
And I am assuming that what you bought *can* be grown in the part of Texas where you live (it's a big state with a lot of different climates). Where I live - the "big box" stores are notorious for selling stuff that won't do well here (our gardening climate here in NE Florida is tough - we have some hard freezes in the winter - but not a lot of chill hours - so we can't grow tropical or northern fruits - and the summer temps with average highs in the 90's aren't a lot of fun for most non-native trees either). Robyn
P.S. Plants/trees in the south generally put on new growth in the late winter/spring/early summer. And then "tread water" or get stressed out during the late summer - fall and early winter. Don't expect any new growth until next year - just try to keep them alive (however ratty they look).
I suspect these trees were grown under a light shade. As such when you stuck them in the ground in full sun light they went into shock, probably sun scald. Try covering with a light colored shade material until it gets establish. Keep well hydrated.
It already has a cup shaped circle around it and i can soak it good every other day.
I can sprinkle leaves during the day.
What I did was but a big box on a stake about 2 feet east of the plant. I then draped a blue tarp over it and it covers the sides of the tree. This should cut reduce sunlight from about 11 hrs a day full sun- to perhaps 5 hrs full sun and the rest semi shade.
I understand the shade thing you built too - and I'd be reluctant to do it. Believe it or not - plants/trees do things based on where the sun is in the sky during various seasons. So if you deprive the tree of the info it gets from the sky - it might get "confused" in terms of when it's supposed to do what.
The pomegranate is supposed to grow in full sun. But - if your specimen was raised under a little shade - I'd probably just use a general light shade screen from now until fall comes to your neck of the woods - then take the screen off and let it get used to where you planted it. Robyn
What I ended up doing was putting a light blue tarp -thin material between two ladders so there is plenty of air to circulate underneath and parts still get pretty full sun. Its not too different from the picture bulldog put.
Do I water the bottom every other day or so? I may get a moisture meter today.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.