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I bought a used Snapper riding mower and used it for the first time. It is very hard to steer and a second problem is the clutch does not always release enough to get the mower moving on the incline. I am teaching myself how to cut with this mower and could use some advice. Is there lubrication for the steering. I guess the mower is 10 years old with a 10 hp Briggs and Stratton Engine. A maintenance manuel would be great.
If you put the model number into google, you may find a manual. The transmission/brake on some models of light riders is adjustable with a nut on threaded rod, but you would want to check the manual first on how to do it.
I had an very old rear engine Snapper many years ago. I abused the heck out of it cutting my five acres of grass. For the transmission; all it had was a rubber disc that was moved on a plate. Yes the rubber would start slipping from time to time. However; there was an easy fix. Simply put a drop of oil on the rubber disc. It slips like heck for a minute or two and then grabs. The oil would condition the rubber.
You also might want to see if you have grease fittings on your front axles. If you don't; just take a can of Liquid Wrench and spray your pivot points. Or; just apply some 30 weight motor oil.
Snapper could have changed their 'transmission' since my tractor? Perhaps yours has a regular, metal case/gear driven, transmission? Check your owner/parts manuals online like suggested. You should be able to locate the your model and serial number on your unit.
I am too old to be working on a big heavy mower so I called a local shop and the guy that came out said it has a rubber disc like you mention. It is relatively easy for them to change. Also my blade was a dull as a butter knife so they are going to sharpen it for me. The guy - Primo- spent about 30 minutes telling me about the mower, how high to cut my grass, etc. As to the steering he explained it is just manual steering like on the old cars and they were all that way. There is some slop in the steering yoke and he said to put in a larger pin where the existing one is wallowed out. They took the mower and I finished the yard with my Honda walk behind self propelled- where is the rider!!, the grass is vey thick and the house is on a raised lot with a slope and the front wheels on the Honda just spun on the grass, I need spiked wheels.
That trick with the drop of oil on the disc saved me from ever changing my drive disc on my old Snapper. A few drops of oil on axles and other surfaces, that require lubrication, can free up your steering.
I had owned a lawnmower repair shop before I had my Snapper (1970's). One old timer taught me the trick of putting the drop of oil on the drive disc.
Anyway; you should be happy when your repair shop returns the mower. Except - it cost you money and you could have done the work yourself. Even sharpening the blade is not hard work – especially if you have a large breaker bar and socket to fit the nut. You would also need a grinder or you could simply take only your blade to the repair shop to be sharpened (saving the money to take it off and reinstall the blade). Knowing how to fix these problems keeps more money in your pocket.
That trick with the drop of oil on the disc saved me from ever changing my drive disc on my old Snapper. A few drops of oil on axles and other surfaces, that require lubrication, can free up your steering.
I had owned a lawnmower repair shop before I had my Snapper (1970's). One old timer taught me the trick of putting the drop of oil on the drive disc.
Anyway; you should be happy when your repair shop returns the mower. Except - it cost you money and you could have done the work yourself. Even sharpening the blade is not hard work – especially if you have a large breaker bar and socket to fit the nut. You would also need a grinder or you could simply take only your blade to the repair shop to be sharpened (saving the money to take it off and reinstall the blade). Knowing how to fix these problems keeps more money in your pocket.
I learned an even neater trick after changing the rubber disc and the improvement was not 100%......take off the plate with hub (the one the rubber disc rides against and attaches to engine) and go to Lowes (or any hardware store) and find a washer that fits inside the hub of the plate with hub you took off, put two washers inside the hub that will allow the bolt to go through and reinstall. It will now climb trees
What it does is put the plate with hub a little lower and tighter against the rubber disc
Can you go more into detail about the disc and the washers. I am new to this.
I tried to Goggle the part but could not find it....mine was bought in 90 and was a 28". The vertical engine shaft had a metal disc bolted to it...the sleeve part of the disc that went on the shaft was like a big bushing. I put the two washers inside that bushing. When bolted back on the shaft it offset the disc. Maybe fisheye or some one could it explain it better than me.
If I still had I could take a picture....sorry.
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