Need Advice Eliminating Oak Sprouts from lawn. Tree was Removed Last Year

[Chas863]

Well, I mixed up some Atrazine with water in my pump sprayer and gave the sprouts a good soaking about 45 minutes ago. I probably won't know if this works for a week or longer. Even if it kills the current sprouts, there's no guarantee that more won't take their place in a short while.

Unfortunately, I can't just keep spraying Atrazine on them every week or so or I'll kill my grass. The precautions on the Atrazine bottle said to use it no more than twice per year. Don't know if that's to protect the grass or as a precaution to protect groundwater and the environment.

Either way, I guess I'll just wait and see what happens. My mowing guy will keep cutting them every time he mows which should be about weekly starting soon. He mows only about every 3 weeks during the winter months. St Augustine grass doesn't grow much during the winter, but with temps in the low to mid 80's today, the grass will sure be growing.

.

[L00k4ward]

Originally Posted by Chas863

Well, I mixed up some Atrazine with water in my pump sprayer and gave the sprouts a good soaking about 45 minutes ago. I probably won't know if this works for a week or longer. Even if it kills the current sprouts, there's no guarantee that more won't take their place in a short while.

Unfortunately, I can't just keep spraying Atrazine on them every week or so or I'll kill my grass. The precautions on the Atrazine bottle said to use it no more than twice per year. Don't know if that's to protect the grass or as a precaution to protect groundwater and the environment.

Either way, I guess I'll just wait and see what happens. My mowing guy will keep cutting them every time he mows which should be about weekly starting soon. He mows only about every 3 weeks during the winter months. St Augustine grass doesn't grow much during the winter, but with temps in the low to mid 80's today, the grass will sure be growing.

.

If the suckers are not mowed often - in a very early soft stage - you will end up with the sharp sticks in your grass - making it unusable - as they can wound your dog’s paws or hurt your children if they fall or go through their shoes sometimes.

Luckily for you - you are just fighting those sprouts as the tree is already gone.
This is the live oak’s fight for life.


Very frequent persistent mowing close to the ground would be able to eventually solve your main problem.

You could repair/restore/renovate your lawn after.

You could combine frequent mowing with application of different types of herbicides from that link I gave.

It helps to alternate them anyway to avoid resistance and strictly use them according to their label: paying attention to the correct season, timing of application, the dosage - (more isn’t better - some systemic ones intentionally designed for a slow gradual killing - to make sure the poison reaches the remote areas of the plant, fast killing may lead to regeneration)

You have a whole list of herbicide to choose from and even more if you disregard your lawn for now.

Do you even need the lawn there? Maybe trying to clear live oak roots sprouts as the first priority - then you could consider planting some shrubbery? Or turf later? Pave it?build a deck?

Herbicides are expensive, could cause health hazards to you and to environment: but it is your call.

Frequent- twice a week close mowing whether the grass needs it or not could end up being less expensive and more practical and effective.

You fix your turf later.

Sorry you have to deal with this amazing force of nature.

[Chas863]

Originally Posted by L00k4ward

If the suckers are not mowed often - in a very early soft stage - you will end up with the sharp sticks in your grass - making it unusable - as they can wound your dog’s paws or hurt your children if they fall or go through their shoes sometimes.

Luckily for you - you are just fighting those sprouts as the tree is already gone.
This is the live oak’s fight for life.


Very frequent persistent mowing close to the ground would be able to eventually solve your main problem.

You could repair/restore/renovate your lawn after.

You could combine frequent mowing with application of different types of herbicides from that link I gave.

It helps to alternate them anyway to avoid resistance and strictly use them according to their label: paying attention to the correct season, timing of application, the dosage - (more isn’t better - some systemic ones intentionally designed for a slow gradual killing - to make sure the poison reaches the remote areas of the plant, fast killing may lead to regeneration)

You have a whole list of herbicide to choose from and even more if you disregard your lawn for now.

Do you even need the lawn there? Maybe trying to clear live oak roots sprouts as the first priority - then you could consider planting some shrubbery? Or turf later? Pave it?build a deck?

Herbicides are expensive, could cause health hazards to you and to environment: but it is your call.

Frequent- twice a week close mowing whether the grass needs it or not could end up being less expensive and more practical and effective.

You fix your turf later.

Sorry you have to deal with this amazing force of nature.

I appreciate your thoughts and time in responding to my request for advice. Your approach sounds like it might work in some situations, but my situation is considerably different.

I don't have any kids or pets, so that's not a concern. However, living in a community with a strong HOA limits my options in how to address this problem. Also, the type of grass (St Augustine) also limits my options.

I can't just scalp the grass and keep it that way for months for a couple of reasons. First, the St Augustine would likely die after a few months because it likes to be kept at about 3" to 4" height in order to do well.

Also, I can't just let the grass die in that area of my yard either because if I did, I would run afoul of the HOA restrictions. Planting additional shrubbery over such a large area, paving the area, or building a deck to cover the area are also non-starters for a variety of reasons too lengthy to go into.

It appears that my only options at this point are to hope that the Atrazine treatment is effective even if I have to repeat it a time or two, or just keep cutting the sprouts as my grass is mowed once per week by my lawncare guy. Eventually, as I understand it, this should take care of the problem even if it takes a few years.


.

[L00k4ward]

Originally Posted by Chas863

I appreciate your thoughts and time in responding to my request for advice. Your approach sounds like it might work in some situations, but my situation is considerably different.

I don't have any kids or pets, so that's not a concern. However, living in a community with a strong HOA limits my options in how to address this problem. Also, the type of grass (St Augustine) also limits my options.

I can't just scalp the grass and keep it that way for months for a couple of reasons. First, the St Augustine would likely die after a few months because it likes to be kept at about 3" to 4" height in order to do well.

Also, I can't just let the grass die in that area of my yard either because if I did, I would run afoul of the HOA restrictions. Planting additional shrubbery over such a large area, paving the area, or building a deck to cover the area are also non-starters for a variety of reasons too lengthy to go into.

It appears that my only options at this point are to hope that the Atrazine treatment is effective even if I have to repeat it a time or two, or just keep cutting the sprouts as my grass is mowed once per week by my lawncare guy. Eventually, as I understand it, this should take care of the problem even if it takes a few years.


.

One has to work with what one has!

Read the labels of all herbicides safe to use on St.Augustine.
Make sure the live oak is listed on the label or at minimum woody shrubbery,vines.

Make sure to use in correct season, the correct timing, dosage,etc

Rotate herbicides.

Be mindful what is going on in your neighbors yards if you are on a smaller lot.

Usually the live oak roots spread far and wide - at minimum 70 feet in circumference from where the tree was.
You don’t want something in your neighbors yard to come back at you

You get it done eventually.