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Old 06-04-2014, 07:14 PM
 
1 posts, read 1,103 times
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I have bought a new condo, despite it not having all I wanted in my dream home, thinking I could get it upgraded. Now I had fallen into over analysis paralysis mode.

I will have a number of projects I would like to solicit input for...

First project is to place hardwood floors everywhere except kitchens and bathrooms. I have decorative, that is not smooth surfaced, tile floors everywhere except bedrooms with fully carpeted floors.

I hope to install snap together floating environmentally safe, replenish-ably manufactured floors over unsmooth tile floor w/o using any glue. My condo HOA requires 1/2" thick cork underlayment for wood floors. Would cork underlayment smooth out valleys and ridges on my tiles. It appears the height difference is about 1/8". Could I just lay underlayment secure them to walls and to each other via duck tape w/o glueing them to the tiles?

Then could I install snap together boards over cork, with extension spacers and accurately sized pieces, I hope they will remain in place w/o the use of glue. Most glues off gas VOCs into the home env, they are not safe. Similarly very few engineered wood products exist that do not use formaldehyde based compounds in their production. Finally found some via google search.

These modern condos appear to have been built out of steel and concrete, in-unit walls still appear to be drywalls. That is I suspect there are no studs to nail down baseboards and shoe moldings to. How are those installed in these new high rises condos, does anyone know?

Without removing tiles there will be 1" height difference between wood floors and floors left with tiles, i.e. kitchen and bathrooms, do they make transition molding to help with such height differences?
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:21 PM
 
Location: Sinking in the Great Salt Lake
13,138 posts, read 22,826,985 times
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It's gonna result in a wonky wood floor with stressed joints breaking open and warping problems. Cork underlay won't smooth it out either;the cork is for sound deadening to keep the people below you happy. The wood will need to go down on a smooth surface to get a good looking and long lasting floor, which means you will have to get the tile out.

That would also solve your height problem. Do it once, do it right!
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:14 AM
 
Location: Wonderland
67,650 posts, read 60,991,038 times
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You MUST remove the tile before laying the hardwood floors.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:24 AM
 
Location: southwestern PA
22,600 posts, read 47,707,443 times
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I agree with the others... the tile has GOT to go before you add hardwood flooring!
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:25 AM
 
Location: southwestern PA
22,600 posts, read 47,707,443 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MelsProjects View Post

These modern condos appear to have been built out of steel and concrete, in-unit walls still appear to be drywalls. That is I suspect there are no studs to nail down baseboards and shoe moldings to.
Drywall is attached to studs....
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:30 AM
 
Location: Ashburn, VA
2,794 posts, read 2,935,120 times
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Want my input.... unless you're really handy and have done projects like this before... get professional help. At the very least get a professional to do the stuff you may not feel comfortable with or have little knowledge of.

Last thing you want to do especially after purchasing a new home is to spend the money to renovate, only to (god forbid) make errors that could end up costing you more.

I helped a buddy of mine when he bought his first home 5 years ago put down real hardwood floors... it was a b*tch... if you have a few extra bucks to throw out there get a pro to do it... it'll save you time, and manpower, and possibly many headaches.
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:34 AM
 
Location: Coastal Georgia
50,387 posts, read 64,034,538 times
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Watch every How To video on YouTube, and also the major home improvement store websites, until you get the preparation and installation step straight in your head. Plan what will happen where your surfaces transition from tile or carpet, before you start. You will need a decent saw to cut the floorboards, and also probably a coping saw to raise the level of the trim on doorways, etc.

Once you prep the surface, you lay down the underlayment and start with the longest wall. Leave 1/2" around the perimeter (use spacers) to allow for expansion. This space will get covered with toe molding. Lay the first few rows and make sure they are straight. After that, you will quickly get a rhythm going and you'll be fine.
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