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Old 09-27-2017, 12:02 PM
 
Location: D.C.
2,867 posts, read 3,553,208 times
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That looks really nice emm74!


Thanks K'Bldr, maybe I can pop a floor register and see a side cut there. I'll check and get some photos.


Any real drawbacks with a water-based finish instead of oil? My understanding is that water-based is a bit less intrusive with it's odor, albeit still quite strong. But really more concerned about durability and reaction to UV light (sun). Have read in a few places that it's the oil-based that goes yellow. Is that true?


My flooring guy is actual a sub that is used by the home builders in our area. Found him through my neighbor who attends the same church. Basically quoting me what he quotes the GC's in general. I've seen his work, and quite impressed (he did our neighbor's refinishing as well last year).
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Old 09-27-2017, 04:56 PM
 
Location: Brooklyn New York
18,462 posts, read 31,621,245 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC211 View Post
Thanks all, and thanks to PC member for sending me the PM as well, would love to see a photo if you're comfortable with it!


Here's a link to a blog that shows a few before/after of what we're hoping to do as well. We want to avoid the "before", and love the "after" photos. Says it's basically a few coats of a clear matte finish, no stain added. I think the matte finish itself has enough influence on the grain of the wood to bring out just enough of the variations of the wood's character.


PROJECT BOULDER BEFORE AND AFTER PART 2 - design indulgence

I read somewhere that the yellowing is a result of using an oil based poly instead of a water-based. The oil itself goes yellow with time. Not sure if that's 100% accurate, but makes sense to me.


The attached picture below is basically what we have now, but maybe a shade darker. It's in our kitchen, dining room, family room, living room, home office, foyer area, stairs (including risers and banister), second floor hallway, our master bedroom, and master changing area. All this color. It's just too dark for us, and it needs some work anyway after 17 years of use.


K'Bldr, I'm probably 90% sure it's red oak and not white oak. The area under our refrigerator was never stained, and it looks exactly like what I'm seeing on the internet as unfinished red oak. There's a slight tinge of red it in, very slight. Our wood patterns in each slat match exactly like this photo. My son calls them tiger stripes. But, I reserve that 10% to be completely wrong as well (which would be great, because it would probably make this much easier with more options for what we want to achieve!)

I love all the black, i especially like the window frames black and the cabinets ( I have black cabonets also).
I like the floors the way they are, im thinking a clear matte finish is best. I dont like reddish or yellowish floors
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Old 09-27-2017, 05:36 PM
 
13,754 posts, read 13,310,798 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emm74 View Post

This is the unstained red oak in my last house, with a satin (not matte but not glossy) finish. I think there is a difference between this and the more yellow toned white oak.
Wow, that matches a dining room set I used to have (didn't have that piece). Waterfall style made in the depression when veneers were popular as fine wood was hard to come by. Striking!
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Old 09-27-2017, 05:37 PM
 
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Oh mine had bakelite drawer pulls and door handles.
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Old 09-27-2017, 07:07 PM
 
5,126 posts, read 7,406,578 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC211 View Post

Any real drawbacks with a water-based finish instead of oil? My understanding is that water-based is a bit less intrusive with it's odor, albeit still quite strong. But really more concerned about durability and reaction to UV light (sun). Have read in a few places that it's the oil-based that goes yellow. Is that true?
Everything I've read from people I respect says that oil-based is the way to go as far as durability and finish quality.

Here's a good source of advice: Oil vs water based polyurethane:Which is better for refinishing wood?
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Old 09-29-2017, 09:22 AM
 
Location: D.C.
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Went by Lumber Liquidators yesterday and got a sample piece of both red and white oak. Went home, popped a floor register, and compared. Looks to be more like red oak instead of white oak. Not sure if you can tell from the attached photo, but what do you guys think? Red oak?
Attached Thumbnails
non-stained red oak floor-img_9089.jpg  
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Old 09-29-2017, 10:24 AM
 
Location: Denver CO
24,204 posts, read 19,194,523 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hunterseat View Post
Wow, that matches a dining room set I used to have (didn't have that piece). Waterfall style made in the depression when veneers were popular as fine wood was hard to come by. Striking!
Quote:
Originally Posted by hunterseat View Post
Oh mine had bakelite drawer pulls and door handles.
thanks! I have just the buffet, not the rest of the set, but that's ok, it makes it stand out more as the featured jewel in my dining room.

I'm not sure what the handles on mine are, I'm thinking they could be a tortoiseshell colored bakelite.
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Old 09-29-2017, 10:28 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,472 posts, read 66,010,995 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC211 View Post
Went by Lumber Liquidators yesterday and got a sample piece of both red and white oak. Went home, popped a floor register, and compared. Looks to be more like red oak instead of white oak. Not sure if you can tell from the attached photo, but what do you guys think? Red oak?


The rays are not always a good indicator, but the end-grain cut is usually a dead give away. And yes I would have to agree; it definitely looks like Red Oak.
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Old 09-29-2017, 11:37 AM
 
Location: D.C.
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Man I wish you were my neighbor! Thanks amigo!!
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Old 09-29-2017, 01:23 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,472 posts, read 66,010,995 times
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So, back to the original q-

Strip sand and just refinish with no stain, or...?
There is a multitude of stain colors that will help with your decor and will either accentuate the rays or could help deminish them- personal preference.

The main thing to remember is, the more coats of poly the better the protection. Just don't let heavy wear areas wear all the way through the poly. Re-coating is simply a matter of a light sand for tooth (adhesion) and a couple of new coats.
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