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Old 03-06-2012, 09:33 AM
 
Location: SoCal
347 posts, read 1,282,915 times
Reputation: 404

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Hi All,

I have a question regarding a problem I found with my subfloor yesterday. I'm remodeling my bathroom and adding tile flooring.

I removed all the old flooring and plywood. It is stripped down to the 1x8 diagonal planks over floor joists. I discovered a 10"x6" piece (half moon shaped) missing out the plank between the floor joists. I think it was just a weak spot in the board and somehow broke off. I found the missing piece in the crawlspace.

My question is this: I am screwing down 1/2" struct-1 plywood over the planks. Will the struct-1 provide enough support over the 10"x6" hole for floor tile? Or is this a potential spot for deflection and cracked tile or grout line?

I could add some 2x blocking below and re-attach the piece, but I'm trying to avoid crawling under my house.

Thanks!!!

MandK
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:32 AM
 
Location: Alaska
5,356 posts, read 18,547,268 times
Reputation: 4071
I suggest you go to www.johnbridge.com and check out their forums. There are tiling professionals that will help you with your project. They also have a deflecto calculator that will check to see if your floor can support tile as currently structured.
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:49 AM
 
Location: Grosse Ile Michigan
30,708 posts, read 79,831,000 times
Reputation: 39453
Althgouh it will probably span it with no problem, in gneral I would use 3/4" not 1/2" un less that creates a problem of some kind. It is not worth saving a few hundred dollars and risking cracked .tile.
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:13 AM
 
Location: SoCal
347 posts, read 1,282,915 times
Reputation: 404
Quote:
Originally Posted by akck View Post
I suggest you go to www.johnbridge.com and check out their forums. There are tiling professionals that will help you with your project. They also have a deflecto calculator that will check to see if your floor can support tile as currently structured.
great!! thank you
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:16 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,475 posts, read 66,074,768 times
Reputation: 23626
What's missing is not so much of a concern as what's the span? If the joists are spanned on the typical 16"o/c or less, I see no real concern if...
Any span over 16" might pose a problem- Assuming the sub-flooring you are referring to is 1X (3/4" nominal).
As Coldjensens said adding 3/4" ply would be ideal, but over-kill because you still need to add a mudbed or DuRock for the tile. So, adding the 1/2" ply and then the mudbed or DuRock for the tile should be more than adequate.
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:59 PM
 
Location: SoCal
347 posts, read 1,282,915 times
Reputation: 404
The joists span 16"oc with 1x8 planks running diagonal. The joists are doubled up near the tub and toilet.

I'm using 1/2" struct-1 plywood to keep the transition to a minimum from the bathroom tile to the oak floor hallway. (Using 1/8" Ditra....no cement board)

Right now the 1/2" plywood is flush with the oak. So,thinset/DITRA/thinset/tile is going to create a big change in elevation.

If I used 3/4" plywood and hardi-board it would probably be considered a step ;-)....... I'm hoping the struct-1 characteristics of the plywood will help me out.
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:58 PM
 
Location: Knoxville
4,704 posts, read 25,305,824 times
Reputation: 6131
A 10x6 gap should not be much of a problem, especially with the 1x8 diag. You can screw the plywood down with a lot of screws and really stiffen the floor. I wouldn't give it much thought.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:06 AM
 
Location: Grosse Ile Michigan
30,708 posts, read 79,831,000 times
Reputation: 39453
Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr View Post
What's missing is not so much of a concern as what's the span? If the joists are spanned on the typical 16"o/c or less, I see no real concern if...
Any span over 16" might pose a problem- Assuming the sub-flooring you are referring to is 1X (3/4" nominal).
As Coldjensens said adding 3/4" ply would be ideal, but over-kill because you still need to add a mudbed or DuRock for the tile. So, adding the 1/2" ply and then the mudbed or DuRock for the tile should be more than adequate.
I like overkill. I am busy paying for uderkill from situations where my contractor said "That is overkill, it is just a waste of money." He was wrong in many many instances. Now I get to re-do it. i will spend a few hundred dollars for overkill. In the long run, somewhere it will save me thousands.

K'ledge I have a quasi related quesiton. I have an outdoor fireplace. I am going to put cultured stone on it. It is constructed out of plywood with a stainless steel instert. It has a sort of roof over it, but it does get wet.It is not full sealed. It has been sitting there exposed for sevral years, but it is not rotting or showing any signgs of damage from getting wet, except there is a little bit of dark discoloration at the bottom of one corner (no delmination or rot - no swelling or warping). The question is whether I need to remove the plywood and replace it with crete board or whatever they call that concrete drywall stuff, or can I just put the stone over the plywood. It seems like the grout that secures the stone in place will protect the plywood, but maybe not. It will be a real PIA to rmeove the plywood because a Jr. Carpenter got a little crazy withthe nial gun when they built the fireplace.
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