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The shed mover suggested that I go buy some 4x4's in 16' length and "install" several of them under the shed
He is correct. Usually there would be two underneath the shed (lenghtwise). I would probably get 3 of them. The shed mover would need to jack the building back up, put nine cinderblocks down and then put the 4x4's down on them and then drop the shed on top of that. Then he would go inside and put screws through floor into the 4x4s. After this he would come back out and level the building. After its leveled off, I would probably install a new floor on the inside using 1/2" treated 4'x8' (4 sheets @ $40 each).
Aaaagggh. The shed mover already moved the shed. I can't believe that I need to do all this. I am furious at the shed maker for their crappy floor. It is supposed to be covered by a lifetime warranty. We'll see.
Thanks for the replies, I will rep everyone that I haven't already!
And thats why the floor was ruined. It should have been installed on cinderbolocks ( as I listed in your previous thread). Thus go back to the old thread and follow those directions and you will never have this problem again.
As to going after the original installer: Is the company you purchased it from the same company who delivered it? If they subed it out, then you will have to fo after the original installer and probably sue them in small claims court. Its not a defect in materials, its a defect in the installation. Spend a few hundred dollars to repair it and not a thousand to rebuild the floor.
It was bought from Home Depot (ShedsUSA). They use their own installers but they are clearly cheap-o labor (as in, immigrants who don't speak English -- I don't mean to be mean to them, but they did several things wrong that they had to come back & correct).
Just for my info (I like to understand these things), why would pavers have ruined it? What is the difference between pavers and cinderblocks?
why would pavers have ruined it? What is the difference between pavers and cinderblocks?
Its not the pavers, but the lack of cinderblocks. It sitting on 2" pavers caused the pavers to sink in the ground and thus you had wood to ground contact. A big no-no. Cinder blocks would have kept it 8" above the ground and no matter how much rain you had it would've flowed underneath.
Fighter1, I am confused, how would those brackets be attached? That is, how do I access them when the shed is only up about 5-6"? I would have to jack it up?
es you will have to jack it up again , about 2 cement blocks high , Then screw the brackets to the 2x4 first , then attach the 4x6 to the same brackets, once this is done start lowering the shed by removing the block one set at a time ( use these same blocks to set the shed on ) . When you lower it do it from one end to the other , that will make it a little easier to level the building .
Fighter1, I will have the shed mover do all that if the company that sold it/installed it gives me a hard time about the warranty.
NeilVA, it was built on site. I have another shed at the old house that was NOT bought from ShedsUSA and it is holding up beautifully after 8-9 years. :-(
The floor sounds like it was built without the 4x4's on the bottom which are supposed to raise the height of it so water could travel under it. And like a home there is a reason a certain height of concrete or cinderblocks are used. Its so the home doesnt make ground contact. Which both mistakes it caused the early failure of the floor. Over time the water would have wicked up the walls and rot would have started.
I went online and their floor kits are designed to be placed on concrete slabs, yet if you go to places the sell pre-built sheds they are always sitting on 4x4s and their delivery people bring cinder blocks with them since people rarely ever put them on a concrete slab.
Spend a few hundred dollars to repair it and not a thousand to rebuild the floor.
A thousand to rebuild the floor? Talk about an exaggeration! The few hundred will rebuild the floor as I previously mentioned.
A close look at the one picture- its pretty apparent that the "joists" for the shed are at best 2X6's but probably 2X4's, and are non- pressure treated. Regardless of how high a shed is positioned it's floor and joists should PT or other "no rot" materials.
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