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Back side of my house, basement level...at some point in the past someone added about 12 feet to the back of the original house. Original foundation is hand-laid stone. The foundation of the addition is cinderblock. To be blunt, it's fugly, but I don't want to face it with stone (too expensive for this particular house).
Can some sort of stucco-like cement be applied directly to the cinderblock to make it look better? It still won't match the original handlaid stone foundation, but I really think there's nothing as ugly as cinderblock...
Sure- you can use portland cement based stucco systems to cover the block. Three coats and you're good to go.
Have actually done this MYSELF on a previous home w/ a retaining wall that attached to our walkout basement. I actually liked doing it. Kind of an artistic exercise. Go for it! I just told the guys at the local Big Box Store what I wanted to do . . . they picked out my supplies and gave me instructions . . . worked great and very satisfying when I was finished.
wondering how much it would cost to do brick veneer on 12 ft of wall that matches what's pre existing foundation. Are we talking a whole wall or just the first 3 ft frost line?
I understand a whole wall is more involved (vapor gap and weep holes) but if it's just the lower 3 ft course it might look nice incorporated into the stucco. Not sure how well it would hold on at a frost line. Maybe a technique has been invented for this? Reputable veneer companies warn against bringing a standard veneer wall down to frost line.
I've seen faux stone veneer panels that looked hideous, not sure if all companies manufacturing them are doing that bad a job. It's meant to reduce labor $$$ for grout work, but the finished result is like a wannabe McDonalds. Cookie cutter pattern, obvious seams, unnatural flat coloring near and far makes it stick out like a sore thumb. It looked far better in my rear view mirror 3 miles away.
Presuming its just 3ft course an option is creative landscaping that hides it with small evergreen type plants. The closer you can bring that cinderblock in line with the original architectural style of the foundation the better it will look.
wondering how much it would cost to do brick veneer on 12 ft of wall that matches what's pre existing foundation. Are we talking a whole wall or just the first 3 ft frost line?
I understand a whole wall is more involved (vapor gap and weep holes) but if it's just the lower 3 ft course it might look nice incorporated into the stucco. Not sure how well it would hold on at a frost line. Maybe a technique has been invented for this? Reputable veneer companies warn against bringing a standard veneer wall down to frost line.
I've seen faux stone veneer panels that looked hideous, not sure if all companies manufacturing them are doing that bad a job. It's meant to reduce labor $$$ for grout work, but the finished result is like a wannabe McDonalds. Cookie cutter pattern, obvious seams, unnatural flat coloring near and far makes it stick out like a sore thumb. It looked far better in my rear view mirror 3 miles away.
Presuming its just 3ft course an option is creative landscaping that hides it with small evergreen type plants. The closer you can bring that cinderblock in line with the original architectural style of the foundation the better it will look.
you will not want to use full bricks, they would require more than what it seems you are wanting. IE engineering check to see if the existing foundation can support the loads from the full brick, and bolting steel angles to the side of the block to stack the brick on. There is a few companies that produce bricks that are 3/4" thick, they use a steel type backing that is attached to the wall, and the bricks fit between. They look pretty good from what I have seen, you still have mortar between the bricks. There are some good Synthetic stone styles that look pretty good too. I would avoid the river rock ones, they all seem to look like you have big pieces of bubble gum attached to the house lol.
Check with your local building department as well. Some will require you to keep any siding materials 6" above the grade (dirt) so that moisture cannot travel up and rot any wooden materials above.
wondering how much it would cost to do brick veneer on 12 ft of wall that matches what's pre existing foundation. Are we talking a whole wall or just the first 3 ft frost line?
I understand a whole wall is more involved (vapor gap and weep holes) but if it's just the lower 3 ft course it might look nice incorporated into the stucco. Not sure how well it would hold on at a frost line. Maybe a technique has been invented for this? Reputable veneer companies warn against bringing a standard veneer wall down to frost line.
I've seen faux stone veneer panels that looked hideous, not sure if all companies manufacturing them are doing that bad a job. It's meant to reduce labor $$$ for grout work, but the finished result is like a wannabe McDonalds. Cookie cutter pattern, obvious seams, unnatural flat coloring near and far makes it stick out like a sore thumb. It looked far better in my rear view mirror 3 miles away.
Presuming its just 3ft course an option is creative landscaping that hides it with small evergreen type plants. The closer you can bring that cinderblock in line with the original architectural style of the foundation the better it will look.
Oh, it's an entire wall from ground up to living level is approximately 10 feet high. My house is built onto a slope -- front door is at ground level in front, but you walk downhill around back and the basement door is at ground level there.
And I don't really want to face it with brick. I don't like brick, and the original foundation is stone so I think I'll go with the Portland cement idea! At least with that I can match the color of the stone, and get some sort of texture going with it. (Will remember to check about the frost line too, thanks!)
We have a 1864 home that was built on stones and no mortar. We have packed the stones with mortar today because ALOT of air is rushing under the house and froze the pipes. We were wondering about using stucco to make sure we have all the joint filled. Will this work with any extra air getting in and what's the best way to apply it?
We have a 1864 home that was built on stones and no mortar. We have packed the stones with mortar today because ALOT of air is rushing under the house and froze the pipes. We were wondering about using stucco to make sure we have all the joint filled. Will this work with any extra air getting in and what's the best way to apply it?
During a good bright sunny day, Go in the basement, turn the lights off and look for light coming through holes. Patch with mortar. When all the light is gone, turn the lights back on and grab a beer!
Make sure you give plenty of drying time between coats. Scratch Brown Finish. I usually. Like 48 hrs between coats. I know some guys like to them all close to get the job done but it can crack or fall off in chunks..
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