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Sorry, you have to click on technical details in my link. I've built many commercial restroom with tile over green board. Honestly, greenboard was used extensively in showers up to about the 90's before Wonderboard was accepted (they were the first I believe). Point being, there's millions of homes still in use today with greenboard. Are these new methods better? Of course, but the old way is still in use. There's some Dens (GP) product that's approved for wet areas too. I can't remember the name.
Manufacturers have learned how to work the code body by gaining approvals for proprietary systems tested with only their materials. It's sad too say that we don't have more generic tests.
I would examine my contract and see what the terms and conditions of cancellation are. Obviously, the guy is more interested in cutting corners than doing a good job. You are going to end up with leaks and black mold, my friend.
Hopefully your contract will allow you to get out of the deal with a minimum of financial suffering. Next time, go to Angie's list when looking for someone like this.
20yrsinBranson
But before you do you might want to read this article from Forbes magazine, and numerous other ones out there.
The TCNA (Tile Council of North America) has a handbook with cut sheet-style architectural drawings. If you order it from the TCNA, it costs about $30.00. Your local tile distributor should have a copy if you want to reference your specific conditions. TCNA has no dog in the fight regarding what you pay, who you hire, whose products you use, etc. Their role is simply to provide the best possible tile application systems for your project. They do extensive testing/reviews of new products and systems.
The arguments about gypsum wallboard vs. "green" board vs. other substrates vs. codes (which vary wildly) can all be opinion based or experience based or geographically based, but the TCNA standards are biblical in their application and practice. Look there for practical answers.
FWIW...K'ledgebldr has referenced ANSI specs which are architecturally applicable anywhere in the U.S. They are also referenced in the TCNA Handbook, and the handbook makes them more user friendly. For instance, Method B-412 is probably the most applicable system for the OP's situation. Those posters espousing the use of wr gwb (green board) should refer to Method B-413, where the use of green board is okay for tiled tub areas that do not have a shower head or horizontal surfaces subject to water collection.
In the end, a consumer will most of the time get professional results from hiring professional tradesmen. Even a DIY'er should do well armed with proper technique from professional trade organizations like the TCNA or NTCA (National Tile Contractors Association) .
"I heard about how to tile a shower from my brother-in-law's third cousin who used to work with a fella who saw it done on "This Old House" when he was in the hospital and doped up from his DWI wreck injuries" is probably not gonna get you the tile masterpiece that you envisioned.
Ok. I have pretty much officially fired the guy. I have already paid him $430 upfront though. He was pretty mad and said something about charging me at his hourly rate of $80. Wow. 7 hrs x $80 = $560. Really...that much for hanging the cement board incorrectly? He eventually said he would send me a certified check for $300. I will be shocked if I see a penny.
Is there any way I can salvage anything here? I have cement board, some joint compount/thinset/tape mixture in the corners and two coats of Redguard over it.
Can I install an acrylic 3 piece surround over what I have now or will this create a cavity between the Redguard and surround where moisture can't escape?
Can I somehow scrape or sand everything off the cement board and take out the drywall screws?
WOW! Before you do anything get pics.... I even go as far as calling the city code folks have them come out and look get a write from them as well, encase this guy decides to take you small claims, for a over charge bill you decided not fair nor want pay....
Very awkward position to be in. Nice guy but how do I say "stop, I don't think you know what you're doing" in a nice way?
Please stop, I am not satisfied with your work, your services are no longer required. Please invoice me for the work you've done so far.
Thing is, you hired a handyman/plumber. If they are a handyman and not a licensed or certified plumber, you are getting what you asked for. When you hire the trades, make sure they are licensed, if not, it is the same thing as hiring your neighbor, you get what they know how to do and that might not be the right way.
Many people skirt around hiring licensed contractors or tradespersons to save money, time or both. Don't expect things to be to code but according to the way they think it ought to be.
For professional work, hire a professional that is licensed because you then have a right to work done to code and in all the ways expected of professionals. Handymen, (could be a woman) are small job people for doing things the homeowner might do themselves not involving more than routine maintenance and minor beauty treatments and such. If it involves a permit or usually requires one, and you don't want to do it yourself, hire someone licensed in the trade you need. Save the handyman work for touchup painting, gutter clearing, replacing a faucet or things you'd do but don't want to for whatever reason.
Tile and grout are never considered to be a waterproof barrier, even when sealed. Water will eventually work its way through and once it does, mold will form and sheetrock will dissolve. Sure, your method has been done for years, but that doesn't make it right. Also, green board is not an approved tiling surface.
As I noted in the old days. I would never suggest anyone use sheetrock today, but it was used 50 years ago. I will disagree that tile and grout are not a protective layer. the amount of water that hits a shower wall is never sufficient to cause the wall to fail...unless their is a way water gets in past the grout. keeping the maintenance on the grout will prevent failure for years.
A well installed and maintained tile job, proper ventilation, would not effect any substrate...even sheet rock for many years. No one is suggesting that tile walls last forever.
My home was built in the early 70s and when I had the tub removed, the sheet rock wall in the field was in great shape, it showed deterioration at protrusions like the soap holder and fixtures.
bathroom tile walls are not designed to have constant water on them, take a shower the grout gets wet, get out of the shower, the grout dries.
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in their application and practice. Look there for practical answers. 
